| Author | Message | ||
     Wruffus |
Blake, They claimed to have rode it 10 miles as a test. I had told them to ride around the parking lot at 20mph in first gear after a long warmup. They said that the scanalyzer didn't show any problems, but also claimed they couldn't reproduce the problem. I'd guess that warm uptime was minimized. | ||
| Tkbennett |
Can somoeone supply installation instructions for a hypercharger? If they could be scanned and Emailed it would be greatly appreciated. Otherwise , just posted written instructions would be good. | ||
| José_Quiñones |
Wruffus, I'm reprinting this from my S3 Files webpage, which seems to be down along with DCBRAG.org at the moment. Q: I have a fuel-injected model, any things I should look out for? A: First, read Service Bulletin B-017, which covers most of the common problems. Also read the X1 Files, which also has many excellent tips. My own Fuel Injection tips are the following: Most drivability problems (stuttering, surging) are due to the Throttle Position Sensor (TPS) and/or the Ignition Timing being incorrect. If you just bought the bike, make sure the Dealer sets the timing to factory specs and resets the TPS before you take delivery. These should be the first two items you check when you have drivability problems. You MUST reset the TPS every time the ECM is changed. Even if the bike seems to be running right, go to the dealer and get it reset. Let the bike warm up before you ride it hard. Turn on the bike, then put on your jacket, helmet and gloves, and then ride the bike. The rocker spacers should be warm to the touch. The FI system will be happy, and you'll also help to save your gaskets this way. Install 10R12 plugs (the Blast! plug) as soon as possible, it eliminates 90% of the detonation. See Service Bulletin B-029 at your dealer. The 10R12 is now the official plug for all Buells. Don't run out of gas, it's a major pain. Plan on getting gas as soon as the low fuel light turns on. Learn how much “reserve range” you really have before you get caught without gas. Each bike will be slightly different. If you do run out of gas, fill up the tank and then ride in the following manner to reset the AFV:Ride the motorcycle in closed loop operation (2500-3500 rpm, approximately 40-60 m.p.h. in 4th or 5th gear with engine under load) consistently for 2-3 minutes. This allows the ECM to learn a new Adaptive Fuel Value (AFV). If your idle hovers around 2000 rpm and it comes down if you let out the clutch slightly, you have an intake leak. Check the seal around the airbox, the intake manifold seals and the injector o-rings. This is particularly noticeable once you install the Race ECM. If you have a '99 model and you are going to replace the intake manifold seals, go ahead and get the 2000 version of the Intake Manifold (Part Number 29532-99YA) and the new black viton intake manifold seals (Part No. 26995-86B), which supersede the black hydrin seals (Part No. 26995-86A) and the grey viton seals (Part No. 26992-99). If the bike surges, especially under 3000 rpm, check the exhaust header and the airbox for leaks. Pay attention to the front header rubber grommets, change them as soon as they deteriorate. Deteriorated grommets will stress the exhaust system and cause exhaust leaks. Better yet, get the new 2001 exhaust mount kit (Part Number S1001.01A1) | ||
| Wruffus |
Jose, Yes, great docs, the S3 and X1 files. I used the portion that you posted to make a list of items I wanted checked when I dropped the bike off with the dealer. I guess I'll have to go over it all myself, less the scanalyzer stuff, and unless successful, try a another service department. I've been hanging on with them until they can resolve problems found at purchase in April. Thanks for the S3 files. | ||
| Swede |
Anyone experienced problems with fuel delivery on carb models? My '98 S1 feels like it does not get enough fuel in high speed. When I reach 120mph on 5th gear it feels like the gas delivery to the carb is to slow and I cannot go faster. No problem on any other gear to rev to the limit (6800rpm). CV carb, race header, muffler & air box. /Bjorn | ||
| Blake |
Bjorn: Two words... "Dyno Tune" ie. if you're going for that kind of high speed performance, you could definitely benefit from a thorough tuning session on a dynomometer to really dial in jetting and timing. | ||
| Swede |
True Blake, but this is not a tuning problem. Works like a clock til I hit 120, then I have to let the trottle down. Feels like running out of fuel. I heard a theory from the Swedish HD agent about the fuel being whipped into "foam" at extreme speed. I find that a bit strange myself. I was more leaning to the petcock being to small or the carb not being able to refill itself with gas fast enough. | ||
| Blake |
But it works in 4th gear fine? You may be correct, the float bowl level may be getting sucked low. I've heard of this before. Try raising the float bowl level a little? I'm certainly not an expert on this. Foaming fuel? Not heard that one before. And since it runs okay until 5th gear, it's a highly unlikely cause of your problem. Let us know what you find. | ||
| Buellzebub |
Swede: if'n you can run redline in a lesser gear the fuel supply should be ok [draw @ max rpms should remain constant no mater what gear you run], i m thinking that the final drive ratio may be a culprit or the load on the motorcycle is governed more by the resistance due to wind and the engine doesn't have the torque to overcome it in your current state of tune DYNOTUNE, DYNOTUNE, DYNOTUNE my 97 s1 [see profile]can do an indicated 220kph [north american gearing] no problems in fifth, faster if i got a slight downhill grade | ||
| Blake |
OH YEAH!!! Good call Buellzebub! Bjorn: With the tall Euro secondary drive ratio, 120 mph may be the best you'll see on a stockish S1 in 5th gear. Wind resistance (aerodynamic drag) is the wall you may be running into, not carburation. How fast are you going at redline in 4th gear? | ||
| Swede |
Hmmm, no I don't think the bike is reaching its limit, as that would feel different. Could be wrong though... Will check topspeed in 4th tomorrow. Anyone using a Pingel or other highflow petcock? Are there even any for the Buells? | ||
| Mikej |
Swede, One of the local race mechanics said their race Buell would starve out on the back straight at a nearby track. Changing to a free flowing petcock like the Pingle solved it. Everything ran fine until they got into a high speed run, then dry-city on the fuel front. One of those things that doesn't hurt anything except the finances to change, and may or may not resolve the problem. If your bike runs fine otherwise, then that may indeed be the problem. | ||
| Swede |
Tried 4th gear topspeed today. 120mph @ 6800rpm, no hesitations. 61 tooth rear, 27 gearbox, 56 clutch, 35 engine. | ||
| Sportyeric |
My riding buddy installed a Pingel on his 97 S1 (my donor bike) when they first came out and had a bitch of a time getting it to seal where it connects to the tank to the point where he was worried that he would be stripping the threads out of the tank. I think he manufactured his own mounting plate. Have they improved the set-up? Has anyone else used one? They must be pretty common by now. | ||
| Iggy |
additional question: still playing with my jets (elev: 1100ft, phx az, v&h exhaust, forcewinder intake, thunderslide kit). I've got the 195 main jet in (185 didn't seem to work that well). The bike accelerates well until i nail WFO and then the bike stumbles hard but if i back off a bit it moves well. should i try to get a 200 main for the thunderslide? I'm pretty sure that i've read that the above condition equals lean mixture. If i do need the 200 jet will the stock jet and holding tube work (i think the stock was a 200). I'd check but i'm at work. thanx much iggy | ||
| Swede |
Tried to find Pingel's homepage but couldn't. Do they have one??? The Pingel I used on my 1600cc Shovel worked perfect. | ||
| Mikej |
Here you go, Pingel Performance Products. Their adapter chart page. | ||
| Swede |
Thanks. | ||
| Bigblock |
Swede, the Pingel works great, I had similar problems with my M2, the Pingel valve solved them. I have had no problems with the Pingel sealing, it has been great from the word go, and I have about 10,000 mi. on it. In fact, I wouldn't even bother trying to supertune a carby Buell with the stock petcock without dong a flow test on it first. That is how I discovered the problem, after many carb tuning attempts did not produce results, I flow tested the petcock and found my problem. If I remember right , you should flow probaly atleast 28 ounces /min, my stock one flowed 11, that was woefully inadequate. You should also make sure that your tank vent is 100% free breathing, as well. And congrats on your Buell... I'm a Swede, too, I was born in Stolkholm, although I have lived here most of my life, and don't speak any Svenska anymore. | ||
| Hoser |
Fella's: I put a pingle on my S1 four years ago , the adaptor they provided was poorly designed and leaked. I made one out if 1/2" aluminum flat bar and at the same time put two 1/4" - 20 helicoils in my tank where the adaptor bolts on , Buell now uses brass threaded inserts on their fuel tanks for carbureted bikes. Jeff | ||
| Swede |
Bigblock, did you get rid of the small plastic ball in the vent system? I suppose it is only there to keep the gas in the tank if the bike falls over. I live 140 kilometers from your birthplace. Small world... I think I will make my own adaptorplate. Its a pretty simple thing to pay for... Helicoil is one of Gods gifts to mankind!  | ||
| Bigblock |
I have a CA bike, so I tossed my evap cannister first thing, and rerouted my breather hose to remove any kinks and that took care of it, getting into the breather valve on the tank itself was never necessary on my bike. | ||
| Newfie_Buell |
Would someone please offer some advice. I am considering an aftermarket Carb. for my 1998 S1 and I have a lot of local Harley guys recommending an S&S Model and some others the Mikuni HSR42. Which one is better? | ||
| Newfie_Buell |
One other thing, What filter system do I use or should I use? Thanks | ||
| Bigblock |
Mikuni. Petcock should have a filter in the tank. | ||
| Mikej |
The stock Buell petcock has a screen-filter inside the tank covering the petcock inlet. If you need or want better filtering (at a flow reduction in most cases) you'll have to add an in-line filter between the petcock outlet and the carb. Most people just rely on the tube filter on the petcock. | ||
| Newfie_Buell |
No, I meant Air Filter System. Sorry for being confusing. | ||
| Swede |
Sending two pics of my Shift Light system to inspire others...   | ||
| Swede |
so excited I'm in the wrong topic... | ||
| Holligandave |
Here's a new problem I've encountered after making some mods (PCII, Force intake, Daytona Boss, hi perf O2 sensor) to my 2000 X1. About 300 miles after the Dyno Tune I've noticed that the engine wants to sputter from a stop. Most times it stalls and makes a "pop" sound from the air cleaner. Even when there is no load (idle) I have to really stroke the throttle to get the revs up. The TPS or timing was not adjusted after the mods. The weather here in Minnesota has been very hot and humid. I was told by my dealer this was most likely the problem! REALLY??? Your help is greatly appreciated. |
