|Posted on Tuesday, February 27, 2018 - 02:40 pm: ||
Hey guys, I picked up the bike a few weeks ago and have taken it on a a couple rides which left me with some questions:
1. Throttle response: Cracking open the throttle, it's buttery smooth. At about 5-10% throttle, the engine revs, plateaus a bit, then there's a big kick of torque and then it keeps revving normally. What's with the plateau and then kick before revving normally?
2. Clutch1: The clutch seems pretty hard to pull compared to other bikes I've had (10 in total). Is this normal?
3. Clutch2: Doesn't the bike have a slipper? When I was out riding spiritedly, I downshifted into a turn, blipped the throttle, and still had the rear break loose. This hasn't happened to me before, even on bikes without slippers. The only time I can remember it happening was when I test rode a large Victory cruiser.
Below is a mod list I got from the PO:
All electrical (charging problems sorted out long time ago):
EBR oiling rotor, new stator installed by dealer at 12000 miles
Compu-Fire 55402 3-phase voltage regulator instead of Ducati junk
New Ballistic Performance lithium battery (9 pounds lighter)
Barker exhaust (nice sound, and 16 pounds lighter)
EBR ECM for Barker exhaust (much smoother ride and more power)
Twin Motorcycles intake stacks (much smoother ride with them, and more power after 5500 rpm)
K&N air filter
EBR clutch actuator
laminar lip for highway comfort
factory heated grips
Buell factory tankbag
XB footpegs (1" lower)
Bar end mirrors
Ulysses frame pucks
EBR carbon fiber engine guards
Ventura sport rack
|Posted on Tuesday, February 27, 2018 - 02:55 pm: ||
Normally I'd say to get a Race ECM to take care of #1, but you have that already. It may be related to your intake stacks, if they are moving the power curve up a bit and it wasn't tuned to match, you might not be getting proper fueling at light throttle. Might be worth swtiching to stock and seeing how it goes.
#2 - The EBR actuator does stiffen things a little bit. The stock setup does have a lighter pull, but I'd stick with the EBR unit for reliability.
#3- It has a vacuum assisted slipper action, but not a real slipper clutch. It will be better than nothing if you fudge a downshift or accidentally hit the shifter, but it is not going to work as great as a real race unit. From your description, the blipping the throttle gets rid of the slipper action as it only happens on decel, so that likely upset the bike.
|Posted on Tuesday, February 27, 2018 - 03:05 pm: ||
Thanks a lot Froggy!
I don't have much in the way of stock parts. The box the PO gave me had mirrors, some cables, and that's about it.
I live in the Bay Area, so I imagine it'll be easier to tune it properly than to replace the intake stacks (since I don't have them).
I've never tuned a bike, what do I google, or what kind of shops usually do it?
#2 ah bummer. Oh well, it's not really a big issue, just means I"ll have a beefier forearm, haha.
#3 Ah, that makes sense. My usual downshift (while braking) is: hold brake, clutch in a bit, blip throttle, downshift, clutch out (no throttle/tiny throttle). How would you recommend I do it better? I've only had the tire slip once, but I can feel a ton of engine braking on downshifts every time.
|Posted on Tuesday, February 27, 2018 - 05:14 pm: ||
You will find it difficult to find someone to tune the bike, as you will need to find someone experienced with Buells. Being on the other coast, I'm not sure who is in your ballpark to ask. Possibly JT&S Performance out of Sonoma, badwebber Firemanjim works there and is knowlegable about Buells and Buell tuning.
For the downshifting, I had to stop and go back and think about it, I believe I am doing it pretty much the same way. Only difference I can think of is that I tend to hold the throttle rather than just blip it then smoothly let out the clutch.
I suspect you are not pulling the clutch enough, or your clutch is not releasing enough, giving you more engagement and plenty of engine braking. With the Race ECM they tend to have very little engine braking (but that can be adjusted in the ECM)
|Posted on Tuesday, February 27, 2018 - 10:51 pm: ||
Thanks, I'll check them out!
Why do you hold the throttle when you're trying to slow down? Any amount of throttle will counteract the brakes. (I'm talking about stopping hard, coming into a corner)
If I'm slowly losing speed trailing a car, I'll hold the throttle as I downshift.
|Posted on Wednesday, February 28, 2018 - 05:12 am: ||
You can't do any better than Fireman Jim for sorting out the tuning.
|Posted on Wednesday, February 28, 2018 - 02:32 pm: ||
Looks like JS&T closed down a few months ago.
From their Facebook page:
October 24, 2017 ·
Sad to say,JT&S is closing it's doors at Sonoma Raceway. Terry is retiring. I will be searching for a smaller place -- closer to home😉-- to set up a shop. Been a good 10 years,I have learned so much, and hope to continue doing the same. Will update when I know more--
Anyone know how I can contact Fireman Jim directly?
|Posted on Friday, March 02, 2018 - 01:24 pm: ||
That is a shame to hear, you can try sending him a PM here: http://www.badweatherbikers.com/cgibin/discus/boar d-profile.cgi?action=view_profile&profile=firemanj im-users
Regarding the braking, maybe I'm not thinking of it right as I just simply do it and am trying to explain something as natural as breathing.
In regular slowing down I'm giving it a little gas to help rev match, but in hard/panic braking I'm full clutch and full brake, no throttle at all until I'm no longer slowing down, then I likely downshift, give some throttle and ease out the clutch.