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Buell Forum » Knowledge Vault (tech, parts, apparel, & accessories topics) » Drivetrain » Clutch: Cable, Adjustment, Basket, Hub, Spring, Plates... » It is my Clutch Plates!??? « Previous Next »

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Ninjadestroyer
Posted on Monday, April 10, 2017 - 01:49 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

I have a issue with my 2009 XB12r. I have been scouring to try and find a answer. A while back I was in Arkansas at a bike rally, On the main drag I was popping little wheelies and by the end, my bike had trouble going into gear. I tightened my clutch cable and changed out my primary (smelled burnt) and got her home. Its been a year, and I noticed that when I was at a stop light and roll heavy on the throttle it would jump in RPMs but would barely move until i lightened up on the throttle. I noticed it on the highway also. This spring I took her out for the first ride after changing the oil and primary. I rode all of 50 miles, and while on the highway noticed that when i pushed a WOT i would redline (or close to) with little torque or speed increase. After that, I lost all ability to move, and was basically stuck in neutral. I got her pulled over and while in any gear i would have 0 movement, but I could push the bike back and forth like in neutral... I drained the primary and was checking the clutch cable and they are fine, the primary smelled burnt again.

My question is, has anyone had that issue, and what did they find as the culprit? I believe my clutch plates or friction plates may be warped/needing replaced and wanted to verify with another Bueller.

I have opened up my primary cover and all external gears look good. no breakage. I have yet to break into the clutch casing as I need tools and having a saturday night issue makes it hard to come by easily.
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Jim2
Posted on Monday, April 10, 2017 - 06:14 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

It is likely that your clutch has worn to the point where it needs adjusting. Not just the cable adjustment but the proper book adjustment. First you loosen the clutch cable. Then locate the slotted shaft in the center of the clutch ramp. Push the clutch ramp back all the way with your thumb. Turn the slotted shaft screw counterclockwise until it lightly bottoms and them clockwise 1/4 to 1/2 turn. Then adjust the cable. You should do a proper full adjustment first before you dig further. You may have to try the adjustment two or three times to get it right.
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Ninjadestroyer
Posted on Tuesday, April 11, 2017 - 01:07 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Well. I ended up taking the primary case apart since I was quite concerned with how the clutch was not disengaging. I tried compressing the spring, and had no luck. I took the retaining clip and used the 1 3/16 socket to losen the bolt and as soon as I put a little pressure on it the clutch spring snapped loose and the clutch disengaged.... I think it was totally bound up by the look of my plates and how burnt they were. It could be that they were needing adjustment, but with the primary smelling like burnt marshmellows, and having a cross country trip in a month, i figured better to change out the steel and friction plates to be safe.

Any other ideas of things I should look at while I am in the primary?
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Ninjadestroyer
Posted on Tuesday, April 11, 2017 - 01:12 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)


Clutch Basket
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Ninjadestroyer
Posted on Tuesday, April 11, 2017 - 01:13 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)


Clutch Plates 1
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Ninjadestroyer
Posted on Tuesday, April 11, 2017 - 01:13 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)


Clutch Plates 2
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Ninjadestroyer
Posted on Tuesday, April 11, 2017 - 01:14 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)


Friction Plate Closeup
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Jim2
Posted on Tuesday, April 11, 2017 - 02:26 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

The pictures are a bit washed out when I zoom but they seem like they could be ok.

I wonder if the smell you describe is your Stator? They start to smell nasty when they are starting to fail.

What fluid do you run in the primary? Certain product can melt the covering get over the stator wires. Specially some of the additives in transit fluids.

You may have just had some gunk sticking things up and maybe it's ok.
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Akbuell
Posted on Tuesday, April 11, 2017 - 09:18 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Per my '08 service manual ;

Wipe the lubricant from the 8 fiber plates and stack them together. The height of the stack should be a minimum thickness of 0.661 in, measured with a micrometer. If below minimums, replace both the fiber and steel plates.

Hope this helps, Dave
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Ninjadestroyer
Posted on Tuesday, April 11, 2017 - 10:51 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Thanks guys, Sorry about the pics, I had to shrink them to attach. Ill hook them in the gdrive link so you can view.

I replaced the stator about two years ago (was oriiginal)... I would hope its not going out again.

Think I should check it? What is the bad stator look like? I paid someone last time


BTW, Im using mobile 1 full synth 20-50 in the primary, same as the oil. I change it every time I do the oil so it stays pretty fresh.


https://drive.google.com/file/d/0BxOhnBupGEwtREJHL Xd4NWdQM1k/view?usp=sharing

https://drive.google.com/file/d/0BxOhnBupGEwtc0hOY 1Rnd2NmcUE/view?usp=sharing

https://drive.google.com/file/d/0BxOhnBupGEwtQ2dGR 0JfWUF0SW8/view?usp=sharing

https://drive.google.com/file/d/0BxOhnBupGEwtdGNlR VZOclAxRnM/view?usp=sharing
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Jim2
Posted on Wednesday, April 12, 2017 - 01:08 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

You are running acceptable oil, I wouldn't worry about the stator. I've always thought there was a pretty noticeable stink anyway. The steel plate in picture #2 of the Google Drive link looked grooved if I'm seeing it right. It might be trashed somehow. Take Akbuell advice and measure the stack. If the stack measures within tolerance and the non-friction plates all look the same your ok. If one or two have that groove and others don't I'd say replace just the non-friction plates.
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Ninjadestroyer
Posted on Wednesday, April 12, 2017 - 11:03 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Thanks guys, my new pack gets in tomorrow... btw. Anyone have the new torque value for the clutch basket? I heard it changed from the manual, but havent been able to find the new torque spec.
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Jim2
Posted on Thursday, April 13, 2017 - 02:11 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

I'm not certain but I don't think there is an updated torque value for the clutch. The main crank nut had an updated torque value.

Save all of your old clutch prices. People come on here all the time in need of a couple of steel and/or friction plates. You can give them away or sell them at a used price.
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Ninjadestroyer
Posted on Friday, April 14, 2017 - 10:43 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Thanks Jim! I appreciate the feedback. I keep all my stuff, you never know.

Well I got the new clutch in, and it didn't have the thinner friction plate. I read a lot of ppl having issue when they go without the thinner one, anyone have input on that?
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Ninjadestroyer
Posted on Monday, April 17, 2017 - 01:06 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Update. I replaced the friction plates with
Alto Products Carbonite Hi-Performance Powerpak Kit 095750CC

I found them on Amazon for $125 insead of the 160 from J&P Cycles. I bought a new Clutch Spring also:

Rivera Primo Mechanics Choice Diaphram Clutch Spring SKU: R38-20590001

The things fit perfectly. I did have to take the smaller friction plate and the small steel / spring out on the inner most of the hub to fit all 8 plates and springs with the double friction disc.

The thing works like a charm. Its like I rode it when I first got it. I cant wait to get it out some more. The clutch is really tight, and I think with a bit more tweeking, it will loosen up. But out the gate. Wort it!.

Anyone have questions on what to do, and cant find it online, hit me up!

Thanks for the help guys!
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Fishman
Posted on Sunday, May 13, 2018 - 05:39 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Do you have this kit: https://www.amazon.com/Alto-Products-Carbonite-Hi- Performance-Powerpak/dp/B000XY177S

Do you also have the newer engine with the oilpump on the right side?
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