| Author | Message | ||
     M2x2 |
I am about to change my oil pump drive gear to the better bronze alloy one. I have checked it every 3rd or 4th oil change it seems all right. I have read the manual and most of the BADWEB info, thank youall. With all of your experiences, what pitfalls or surprises should I be looking for? Thank you in advance. | ||
| Reepicheep |
Loosen the correct rocker box if you want to use the factory timing marks on the cams without pulling the other rocker box. Basically, you set one cylinder to TDC, which relieves rocker box pressure, and remove the other rocker box to get the pressure off of that one. I forget which cylinder is supposed to be at TDC when you time the cams. But that is the one you DO NOT want to remove. You want to remove the other one. Or, just pull both, and refresh your rocker boxes, especially on a tuber, if you don't already have the new improved rocker box gaskets anyway. They leak often and the gaskets are sold in pairs anyway... | ||
| M2x2 |
Thank you, I replaced the rocker gaskets years ago, also have all new gaskets for the job. | ||
| Reepicheep |
Thanks for investing in keeping an M2 alive for future generations. I love my Uly. Um, Uly's now. Long story. Anyway, I still miss my M2. | ||
| Egagnon086 |
Dont forget you need a pinion holding tool to do the job. Did you get one, have you swapped gears? | ||
| M2x2 |
Not yet. Some times life gets in the way. Good point on the pinion tool. | ||
| Reepicheep |
Not that I would advocate such reckless and irresponsible behavior, and I'm sure it's more trouble, but I can neither confirm nor deny that I have replaced that gear on both an XB and a tuber without the pinion locking tool. But I bet I had to pull the primary cover off to do so, or perhaps do something unnatural with a 2x4 and the rear wheel and pray the clutch holds. | ||
| M2x2 |
I am pretty good at shade tree mechanics, being raised on a farm and working as a plant maintenance person. Do you think if I lock the rotor to the clutch on the primary side it would lock up the cam side? | ||
| Reepicheep |
I don't think it, I know it.  Slap a chunk of aluminum between the two sprockets to lock them together. It may cost you a primary cover gasket though. I think I did it by locking up the rear wheel once also, but recall it being hard to torque without the clutch slipping. I don't recall if I succeeded without pulling the primary cover or not. | ||
| M2x2 |
Thank you, saves me buying an expensive not oft used tool. | ||
| Brother_in_buells |
Do you think if I lock the rotor to the clutch on the primary side it would lock up the cam side? I got the advice to not do it that way ,because you could force the crank out of alignment! Instead buying a pinion locking tool i made a one time use pinion locking tool from a piece of alloy. Also read on here that some did it with a penny between the pinion gear. | ||
| Reepicheep |
That isn't a crazy concern, but if you are doing it with a torque wrench you are using, what, 125 foot pounds of pressure? That's not that high relative to normal loading of the crank. And probably well below a dumped clutch or missed shift. Truth be told, I would even use my crappy harbor freight impact gun (attached to a 1/2" 300 foot air line) and not worry much. Though I avoid it where I can when the crank is involved. But I would NOT use one of the uber-quality 1000 foot pounds earthquake good impact wrenches. | ||
| M2x2 |
Well, this is enough information to thoroughly confuse me. I think I'll just delve into this and see what presents itself and go from there. I appreciate all the advice and warnings. I can certainly make some sort of locking tool. I will let you know how it goes. Life is still in the way. At least I have other bikes to ride. |
