| Author | Message | ||
     Sportyeric |
Aaron, you're right, of course, but quibbling. Also, an a/f gauge would be great but if your buddy doesn't own one what's the shop time bill?I'm not the only one hovering on the edge but still needing a basic tune. Bigfan, my computer resources, as well as all others, are limited. I can't even get my own photos loaded into here. Dave is lurking. How 'bout it,Dave? You got the technology? If not, we should all get together for a photo shoot at Jim's. He's got a digital. How 'bout a week Thursday for a ride? As I think about it, Dave's puke can just blows into the air, no filter. Picture a liquid soap bottle with a push-top spigot. Knock off the spigot. Attach the breather hose. Drill a couple of holes on the top surface for the air to get back out and VOILA! Strap it to the frame rail, left side, behind the rear cylinder. At first glance it looks like nitrous! (unless you use a bottle with lilacs and stuff on it.) I'll see what we can do but this week is pretty thoroughly booked....WITH RIDING!! | ||
| Sportyeric |
I remember a certain anxiety drilling a hole into the body of my carb. Definitely want to make sure it's is the right place. With the carb upside down, there is a 3/8 inch diameter tower on the manifold side (as Aaron says), directly in line with the center of the bore. That's it. Drill down. | ||
| Davet |
Actually that catch can has been replaced with a new and improved model. Over the winter I rounded up an 8" long piece of 1 1/2 aluminum pipe, had my cousin weld end caps on it and had a friend with a lathe spin it and smooth it out. I epoxied some studs in the back of it for hidden mounting and mounted it on on the right side of the bike on the downtube in front on the brake switch. If you liked the last one, you'll love this one. Nice polished aluminum, matches the swingarm and tail section. I've run the head breathers to a tee, then a single 3/8 line back to the can. The can has a 3/8 hole in the top of it for pressure to escape. After a hard ride there's just a tiny bit of residue around the hole. I also put a threaded petcock in the bottom of it for draining, although I only drain it about once a year, and there only seems to be a dribble in it. I don't have any pictures of it, but next Thursday sounds good, I'm busy all this week, (unfortunately not riding) Do you still have my number, give me a shout. | ||
| Bigfanof6 |
Hey, looks like my request for a picture might get a few Buellers together for a ride and a couple of brewskies. Whatever works... Thanks for the advice on the catch cans. I would still LOVE some pictures. Between what I've read, and what I've seen, I think I may try to dream something up. Something somewhere between what Chuck has, and what Davet has. I'm thinking aluminum canister, round, with the K&N filter coming out of the top, a fitting for the puke hose running into the side near the top, and a small petcock on the bottom for drainage. Sounds easy. Lets see what I can come up with. Again, thanks for all the help, guys, and I'm glad I could get ya'll together for some Buellin. Chris | ||
| Bigfanof6 |
Sportyeric, I found the proper place to drill. Thanks to MR. Aaron. (And you, if I hadn't already tried it) And although I only had time to "test flog" it up and down the street a couple of times, adjusting the mixture screw seemed to make quite a difference. Thanks for the help. Chris | ||
| Richieg150 |
Just installed the N65C needle in my 2000 M2.I also drilled out the slide,have a 190 main and a 45 primary jet.I set the air mixture screw at 2 1/2 turns out,and my bike runs GREAT!!No more popping or hesitation on the throttle!Before I knew any better I purchased a Thunderslide kit,and had no luck with it!My bike seemed to run worse with the kit in,better with stock parts installed.I put in the recomended needle and drilled out the slide and it seems to have helped out.There doesnt seem to be any hesitation on the throttle now,I roll on the throttle and the bike comes right up!GOTTA LOVE THAT!!Keep up the good work guys,THANKS!! | ||
| Tripper |
Richie, your bike is still slow.  Loose the fringe for more top speed! | ||
| Jazlawyer |
OK guys I'm new to Buellin' (see profile post) but jumped in with both feet...bought a 97 M2 and a 98 S1 in a 10 day span. They're like a drug they don't make. Now for my dumb*ss move...I had to eliminate the bread box on the M2 but the screws supplied with CF/K&N kit were too long and I cranked a hole in the side of the CV body while installing the backing plate...Saturday afternoon and I had to ride...out to the HD shop for a replacement carb...not in stock but they had a S/E 44mm CV replacement they sold me for cost out of pity. Put it on right out of the box before rejetting. Did not repeat my earlier mistake with the backing plate screws! Ran but reaaaallll rich. Only known mods to bike are V&H slip on and S/E ignition. The original carb (40mm) had been reworked with jetting/yost tube, etc and the bike ran good with strong midrange. Now the power band seems to have moved way up in the rev range with virtually no bottom end. Starts and idles OK but burbles and spits on deceleration. No spitting on acceleration...just running real fat. Questions: Can the M2 with the above limited mods handle the 44 or is it way too much carb? Are the parts from my 40mm paperweight, i.e., yost tube, jets, etc. interchangeable with the 44? Where do I start with the jetting to lean this thing out and regain some of my mid-range grunt? Any literature or posts on this site you can steer me to appreciated. Thanks for the help. | ||
| Richieg150 |
OUCH!Tripper you REALLY know how to hurt a guy!I 've done some recent wind tunnel testing,and my tests have proven that frayed leather exactly 12 inches in length,attached to the brake and clutch lever,keep the Buell motorcycle in an upright and stable position at high speeds!I am willing to sacrifice the .25 M.P.H. I am loosing on the top end to make my bike more aerodynamicly stable at high speeds!By the way Tripp,these wind tunnel tests were done under the same criteria as the early space shuttle models!The tests were performed in a A.C.M.E. Flowmaster,Model BR459,manufactured in 1972,600 FT above sea level,temp.85 fh.,humidity 62%. | ||
| Jerome |
Aaron : too much honor indeed ! I would not argue to know more the Buell carbs than you do. ;-) Especially as you've also started to play with the A/F gauge and enjoy its information. Regarding the slide hole, when I had the CV carb on my Buell I drilled it as recommended quite often. Having already the A/F gauge at that time, I noticed absolutely no change in the mixture and I could hardly notice any difference in bike response. Now that I have the Mikuni HSR42, and by comparison with the CV carb, I support your comment regarding rpm effects on the mixture with the CV, in addition to throttle opening effect. Tuning the Mikuni slide-carb is an easy game in comparison ! | ||
| Iggy |
Just did the thunderslide in my m2k and was wondering if there is a good rule of thumb for tweaking the jet sizes and a/f mix. i don't have a dyno access (unlike some lucky people) and would rather do it myself than go to a shop. i'm mainly interested in what should i look for after changing the main jet size (larger or smaller) or a/f mix (richer or leaner). if this is already posted on here somewhere, my apologies. | ||
| Loki |
One does not know what is mising until they rework the carb....... Blake, Finally got the 'Racewinder' installed this past weekend. Couple things of note, at idle I can really hear it inhale. The other seems that it really likes the the big hole pointing to the front. Loki | ||
| Blake |
Cool! Ram air works eh? | ||
| Jmartz |
Iggy: On my S1 at 1000 ft. elevation, I used a 45/190 or 45/195. W/o a dyno I could not tell a difference. Keep in mind that the thunderslide is shaped in to enhance air velocity at low rpm but hampers full throttle power because is does not allow the full bore of the carb to be exposed. Jose | ||
| Iggy |
Jmartz: yesterday i swapped the 185 jet to 195 and it's happier from 2.5-4k rpm but tends to choke at times when WFO through the entire rpm range. | ||
| Jmartz |
What exhaust/intake are you using and what elevation do you live at? Jose | ||
| Dark_Ninja |
Okay, a question for you guru's over here. I suspect that I am running too rich, but I don't know. What I DO know is that when running @ or near WFO as the tach climbs above 5.7K or so I start to see 'black-dark grey' smoke coming out of the tailpipe. Not great billows of it, but enough to see. Does this sound like a carb/jetting problem, or are those cranky valves needing some attention? The bike is a 1998 S3T. Factory Exhaust (I know, I know) factory carb (never played with as far as I know) and has a touch over 17k miles on it. Elevation is 5400 feet here in Casper, Wyoming. | ||
| Jmartz |
DN: HD motors are traditionally produced lean in the mid range an rich on the top. Perhaps if you rejet the black smoke will go away. It may also be an oil burm from a valve seal or cylinder head o-ring. Jose | ||
| Iggy |
Jose: intake: forcewinder exhaust: vance & hines elevation: ~1100 ft current temp: 100 degrees iggy | ||
| Loki |
Blake, You know the theory behind ram air and such..... It will never build any kind of pressure, with it being just a lip seal and all. More an effect of helping staighten out the influx of air. Either that or I just want to believe it makes a difference.... | ||
| Jmartz |
Iggy: Seems like Atlanta weather and elevation. Idle and mid range should be tha same as my S1, top end might require abit less fuel. 45 slow, 2.5 turns, 190 main. If it pops in the mid range (cruising at 3000 rpm) lift the needle 1 notch. Jose | ||
| Dart |
2000 M2 45 slow jet 2.5 turns 195 main jet N65C needle 500 ft. elevation (Rochester, NY) Just bought a Daytona Boss exhaust slip-on, forcewinder intake, and thunderslide kit. QUESTION: Where should I go in jet sizes to get close to perfection? Between the free'er flowing intake and exhaust, I figure my f/a mixture to get very lean. What does a Thunderslide kit do exactly?(a friend sugested I install a thunderslide kit instead of a regular jet kit) Is this the better of the 2 jet kits to install? Also, I don't have the exhaust, intake, or thunderslide yet. Just trying to get things in order for when they all arrive. Steve 2000 M2 | ||
| Blake |
Wouldn't burning oil produce white smoke? | ||
| Jmartz |
Dart: I don't think there is much difference among the various choices, DynoJet, Yost or HD. The T-slide selling point is its lightness and thus expected faster response. The problem with it is that it will not allow the full bore of the carb to be exposed at full throttle. The other choices just change the needle and main jet. Yost claims better atomization but many refute that. HD parts will cost you the least. $15 versus $120... You decide jose | ||
| Jerome |
Steve : free'er exhaust will lean your carburetion but do not necessarily expect that aftermarket aircleaner will lean your carburetion as well. My experience is limited to stock breadbox versus Force-type aircleaner and I can tell you that with the stock CV carb, the aftermarket aircleaner made the carburetion far RICHER. Don't ask me why, I don't know. If you've not followed the last few months of discussion on this part of the forum, be aware that the statement above is not based on subjective feelings but on readings on an air/fuel gauge aboard my Buell. | ||
| Clark |
Listers: About a month ago, I started having problems with the carburation on my 99 M2. My bike would start and run on choke; but fail to idle. The problem appeared to be intake seal failure. I took the advise of fellow listers and replaced the seals. I also rebuilt the carb. Well all seem to be okay when I put it all back together and test run the bike. I have not had a chance to run the bike since the repair. Today I decided to take the bike out for a run, and the problem has returned. My bike only has 2600 miles on it. I am wondering if there is a real fix for the intake seal. I found out the original seals have been superseded by another part number. I purchased the updated seals and used them. If the intake seal is a chronic problem. I will be quickly losing what used to be a positive opinion of this bike. I do use the shop manual for tear down and repair. Any other suggestions or advice would be appreciated. | ||
| Burnout |
HAS ANYONE HAD TROUBLE WITH A FLAT SPOT IN THE LOWER RPM FROM INSTALLING A FORCEWINDER AIR CLEANER? H.D. SAYS IT IS AND THAT THEY CAN'T FIX IT WITH OUT PUTTING IT ON A DYNO AND WARRANTY WILL NOT COVER IT. THIS BIKE ONLY HAS 2500 MILES ON IT AND I BOUGHT IT WITH THE AIR CLEANER INSTALLED NEW. THE BIKE IS A 2001 M2 AND I LOVE IT, BUT THIS HESITATION IS GETTING TO BE A PAIN IN THE REAR. ANY SUGGESTIONS? | ||
| Aaron |
It's not unusual to have to do some tuning after changing components. A dyno is useful but not strictly necessary. Have you tried the setup described at the top of this page? | ||
| Jerome |
Burnout : if you still run the stock muffler, IMHO the flat spot comes from it, not from the Forcewinder. | ||
| Burnout |
Aaron, yes everything is in the carb that is at the top of the page, but i did not drill out the small hole, Jerome, the bike has a v&h slip on, force air cleaner and the dyno jet kit in it, this was all installed at the dealer, i payed them 2 times to rejet the bike, once when the force was put on and then when the pipe was installed. Now they tell me to live with the problem because the top and mid range are excellent, and it is but i do alot of riding during rush hour and it is all low end power i use. anyone think i have a bad accelerator pump? |
