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Buell Forum » Knowledge Vault (tech, parts, apparel, & accessories topics) » Chassis » Frame, Engine Mounts and Steering Head » Front engine mount bolt (options) « Previous Next »

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Aaron75
Posted on Monday, October 03, 2016 - 05:08 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Hi all. New to the site. Just bought an m2 a month back. Really nice shape. I did have to replace the front isolator and I went ahead and purchased new head bolts for bracket as well. Factory 911 bolts.

I also added the stabilizer that goes from the frame to the bracket since the holes were already there.

So been riding for a few weeks and one of the new bolts sheared off the hex head..
This is just from riding normal on it.

I torqued the bolts originally torque the bolts to 65ft pounds by mistake then re did them to 60. Would this cause them to snap? And is 60 pounds the correct torque?
Thats what I read it to be after a recall?

Is there any stronger bolts out there?
Thanks in advance.
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Jim2
Posted on Monday, October 03, 2016 - 06:44 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Aaron, welcome to BadWeb. I also have a 2000 M2.

According to the recall bulletin 60 ft/lbs is the correct torque. It says to first lube the head of the bolts then torque to 60 ft/lbs, back off one full turn, then torque again to 60 ft/lbs.

http://www.badweatherbikers.com/buell/messages/384 2/B018-263565.pdf

However; when I ordered my front isolater kit from Al Lighten at American Sport Bike (RIP American Sport Bike), the new F911 bolts were included along with instructions that had a slightly different three part torque sequence with different specs if I remember (I usually don't remember). I followed those instructions. I'll have to look for them at home before I can say what they are. Those are the instructions I followed thousands of miles ago.

I would say that over torquing the bolts probably did stretch them to fatigue but I'm nobody to ask about metallurgy and proper mechanics.

From what I read on here, the mounting surfaces on the head could be out-of-plane and that can cause perpetual failure of the front mounting bolts.

I'm sure that someone else here will chime in on this subject.
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Jim2
Posted on Monday, October 03, 2016 - 06:51 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Here is some good advise from Ratbuell
"
Once you torque them, MARK THEM.

I use a dot of bright orange touchup paint. Put it where you can see it at a glance. Make sure it gets on both the bolt, and the mount.

Check weekly, if not before each ride.

One solid dot? Ride.

Two misaligned dots? The bolt turned. Don't ride. Troubleshoot, retorque, re-mark.

ALL of my critical fasteners get this process when I torque them. Engine mounts. Shifter bolts. Drain plugs. Pinch bolts. Axles. Caliper mount bolts. Primary cover bolts. Swingarm bridge bolts. If I put a tool on it...I mark it when I'm done. My pre-ride checks take about...oh...eight seconds.
"

http://www.badweatherbikers.com/cgibin/discus/show .cgi?tpc=47623&post=2351576#POST2351576
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