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Buell Forum » Knowledge Vault (tech, parts, apparel, & accessories topics) » Engine » Big Mechanicals: Head, Cyl, Piston, Rod, Crank, Flywheel, Cases, Bearings » 2007 Crank Replacement... « Previous Next »

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Reepicheep
Posted on Monday, May 30, 2016 - 08:25 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Well, my 2007 tapping is getting a lot worse, and I think it's time to acknowledge that my crank is failing, and do something about it before I just ruin other parts of the motor.

If I took off everything from the top to the cases, removed the primary, cams, oil pump, etc. Then boxed it up and shipped it to somebody, how much for the new upgraded crank, larger case bearing, and installation (with transmission inspection) from a very trustworthy source?

On the converse, how much is a 2007 Uly with a tappy crank worth as a part out? This bike already has a rebuilt from salvage title from a rebuild from an accident... It is already on it's second life, so a crank rebuild would be it's third life.

With 2008's going for $5500, I'm not sure it makes sense to rebuild a 2007 motor. I would like the better crank and oiling system.

Anyone in the US do a good job with bottom end rebuilds?
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Buelliedan
Posted on Tuesday, May 31, 2016 - 11:20 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

larger case bearing?
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Reepicheep
Posted on Tuesday, May 31, 2016 - 12:44 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

That was poorly worded... the larger left side crank bearing that is native to the 2008 and up cranks.
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Buelliedan
Posted on Thursday, June 02, 2016 - 11:37 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

To my knowledge it is the same size as your current one. It is just the lower conn rod bearings (which is no worry as it comes as a unit) that are larger and you need an 08 and up rotor/pulley and bolt.
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Reepicheep
Posted on Thursday, June 02, 2016 - 01:01 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

That explains it. Thanks!
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Blake
Posted on Friday, June 03, 2016 - 10:53 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Why not try DIY?
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Hughlysses
Posted on Friday, June 03, 2016 - 11:41 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Bill- Sorry to hear you've joined the club.

It's a hard decision to make. Even if you do the job yourself, you're looking at over $1000 worth of parts (crank, some bearings, gasket set, and you'll probably want to do rings while you're in there).

Talk to Darkhorse Crankworks- they can tell you exactly what is required for the replacement whether you have them do it or do it yourself.

http://www.darkhorsecrankworks.com/

They said they worked with Buell to develop the upgraded crank as part of the racing program and they are very familiar with the changes. They were very helpful to me in e-mail exchanges even though I didn't wind up going to them for any work.

Darkhorse told me the left side crankcase bearing is different (not necessarily larger), and a press is required to change this bearing.

On the right end of the crank, one of 4 sleeves has to be selected to give the right fit for the crankcase bearing. The procedure is detailed in the shop manual- it looks pretty "fiddly". I think the sleeves are only a couple of bucks each so you could order all 4 and then pick the one you need.

The only other tricky thing I'm aware of is the 2008-up crank does not have a timing mark to allow you to set the static ignition timing. At least one Badwebber that did the swap got his engine back together before he realized this (not a "start over" problem, but kind of a PITA). The 2007 crank has a grove machined in it, but I'd think you could just mark the new crank with paint or a permanent marker, or maybe with a few carefully applied punch marks if you want to be sure it's permanent.

Other possibilities are to find a good 2006 engine (probably about the same cost as parts for rebuilding yours), do a 2008-up engine swap like me, or find a deal on a 2008-up Uly. The 2008 engine swap is probably not worth the effort at this point since you can buy the bikes so reasonably.

Good luck!
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Reepicheep
Posted on Friday, June 03, 2016 - 12:31 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Thanks Hugh, you continue to be a great source of information.

Blake, this is a 2007 Uly with 30,000 miles, and it already has a rebuilt from salvage title due to that damn corolla. I found some latent damage already (rear head to frame mount completely failed over a year after the rebuild... a chunk of the head just fell off the bike in the driveway).

If I fix mine, I suspect I'll be 50 hours of my own labor, and out $3000 by the time I got it back to the equivalent of a 10k 2008 or 2009. And still a salvage title.

I'm seeing 2008 and 2009 ulys with 10k miles for $5000.

So if I get one of them, move over the mods I like, then sell (or part, likely sell) my current bike with the current problems for $1500 or so, that feels like the best path to me right now. That gives me a good crank, a better oiling system, a bike without a salvage title, and more peace of mind.

So $3500 out of pocket and no work to have a 10k 2008 or 2009 with clear title, versus $3000 and 50 hours work to have a 2007 with 30k miles and a salvage rebuilt title.

Seems like a no brainer.

If the value of a clanky cranky 2007 is less than $1000, it will go in the corner of the garage and become my own little parts counter, which also makes sense. The heads alone (which Wes and Pammy Brown blessed about 2000 miles ago) are worth $400 easy.
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Court
Posted on Friday, June 03, 2016 - 12:53 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

>>>That gives me a good crank, a better oiling system, a bike without a salvage title, and more peace of mind.

No brainer.
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Hughlysses
Posted on Friday, June 03, 2016 - 01:32 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

^ Yep. And if you get an X, you get stouter front forks and better turning radius.

Regarding parting it out, I was able to get close to $1000 for the good parts out of my engine alone. My cylinders and pistons were trashed and the crank was toast, but there were good heads, throttle body, cases and transmission, primary chain, clutch assembly, stator, etc., a lot of high-demand parts. I still have a few items left I believe, but I got rid of the majority of it which greatly offset the cost of my engine swap. [Edit- come to think of it, didn't you buy my trashed pistons to use as desk art/paper weights?]

Or you could hold on to your hulk, buy a new SX, swap the suspension bits and tail section over and have the first AX!

(Message edited by Hughlysses on June 03, 2016)
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Reepicheep
Posted on Friday, June 03, 2016 - 05:43 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Yes! One of those pistons is on my desk. They were beat up, but not *that* beat up. I think I have your crank position sensor also, I don't leave home without it. : )
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