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Gabby_duck
Posted on Friday, October 16, 2015 - 02:54 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

2009 uly, I'm getting code 34 IAC.I have a supply of backup parts.Ok when riding for about 15 to 20minutes the code light will come onThe bike will ride fine at hiway speeds.Sometimes at idle it is like its missing on a cylinder idle going up and down. Sometimes riding around 30 to 35 mph it seems to missed. I change tps, iat, cleaned out IAC port and throttle body also replaced IAC. No change in status.yes I did tps reset.wires to IAC are good and are transmiting signals.
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Buellistic
Posted on Saturday, October 17, 2015 - 09:40 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

OLD SCHOOL:

GOOGLE "IDLE AIR CONTROL"(IAC) !!!

Learn all about it !!!

Don't let it being on a CAR scare you ...
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Gabby_duck
Posted on Sunday, October 18, 2015 - 05:30 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Buellistic,I know all about it (IAC) but apparently you haven't read my post.Fishing for another areas to check.
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Akbuell
Posted on Sunday, October 18, 2015 - 12:45 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Let's Review:

You have confidence in the things you have checked and changed. It would be reasonable to eliminate things like the IAC,IAT, ect.

So the problem is most likely elsewhere. The FSM shows Code 34 can be idle higher, or lower, than expected, or IAC failure. Since no change with a new IAC, I believe the 15-20 min riding period before symptoms appear could be the key. An intake leak could cause your symptoms, and trigger the IAC code. A leaking, or otherwise poorly performing fuel injector can be at fault.

All of the above depends on clean, tight electrical connections, grounds, good battery, ect.

Hope this helps, Dave
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Buellistic
Posted on Sunday, October 18, 2015 - 01:56 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

SEALS, intake manifold PN 26992-99 on tube frames ???
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Gabby_duck
Posted on Sunday, October 18, 2015 - 07:55 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

I Removed the plugs and replaced them because they were fouled,I also found plug boots with small cracks on the boots.will need to replace the plug wires because of this.
OK I check the ecm and found on the grey or J1 plug socket #21 not completly seated.Reseated socket # 21. With a really good blower on motor I idle for at least 15 minutes no issues. While idling I also wiggled tested the Ecm grey and black J1 and J2 plugs no issues noted.When I started the road test (under normal engine load at about 35mph the code 34 IAC reappeared.
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Gabby_duck
Posted on Sunday, October 18, 2015 - 07:59 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

I have performed intake leak test using carb cleaner and detected no leaks.I might need to do the test after a short ride.??
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Akbuell
Posted on Tuesday, October 20, 2015 - 12:59 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Good catch on the J1 plug. Interesting that it is one of the IAC wires.

Seems a lot of the usual suspects can be eliminated. Since the problem appears after heating has had a chance, and under load, an experiment comes to mind.

After riding the bike until the fault code appears and the partial/low speed miss appears, take the seat off and ride that way. Could eliminate/confirm the possibility of a wiring harness problem under the seat or 'cracked' ECM.

In my internal combustion experience, every time I have hammered at a miss problem, believing it to be fuel, it turned out to be ignition. In this case, ignition (or associated electrical gremlins) are getting ruled out. The fouled plugs MAY be an indication of a poorly performing injector(s). Or their wiring.

Hope this helps, Dave
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Buellmeister57
Posted on Tuesday, October 20, 2015 - 08:39 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Following this, having similar issues with my 09 Uly. Replaced the IAC, didn't fix it.
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Gabby_duck
Posted on Tuesday, October 20, 2015 - 09:14 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

First of all the harbor freight noid test set has the exact fit plug in for testing the IAC wires coming from the ecm.If money is the issue O'Reillys Auto will loan a noid light kit that has that IAC tester.OK I will do the no seat ride tomorrow Akbuell and give a report.I would love to do a fuel pump test.I can't find the parts to make a good tee to conduct the test.
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Gabby_duck
Posted on Wednesday, October 21, 2015 - 03:46 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Akbuell, I did as you said above with the addition of a fuel pressure gauge hooked up for the test ride. Fuel pressure was good and held at a steady 50psi. I rode with the seat off from the beginning of the test ride.The code 34 light comes and go like before with intermittent hesitation at lower speeds.After further investigation I notice the black connector on the ECM has the famous crack line along the seam where the black connector meats the ECM.I need the new plug wires since the they have cracks in the boot insulators.
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Akbuell
Posted on Friday, October 23, 2015 - 04:23 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Drat! Double Drat!

The dreaded crack in the ECM now moves to the head of the list. My '08 electrical manual shows both front and rear coils and injectors are 'fed' by the black connector. It could be that one or more of those 'appliances' are getting corrupted data, and their poor performance is causing running issues that result in the fault code.

Kind of forced one to try a known good (I never liked that troubleshooting method, FSM notwithstanding, but it does work) ECM to see if that solves the problem.

Hope this helps, Dave
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Gabby_duck
Posted on Friday, October 23, 2015 - 09:05 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Akbuell OK I actually have a extra ECM that had the dreaded crack. 3 years ago I used a dremal tool with cutting wheel. I carfully cut the black portion of the ECM behind the grey and black connectors(don't cut the grey and black connectors). Removed potting compound and resolder the pins.(just reheat the old solder just to get the old solder to flow. OK replaced this one for the one on the bike. Bingo bike is riding like new.I will go for a 25 mile ride tomorrow and we will see for sure if the repair etc... Will hold.
P.S I never tested the ECM that I resolder.I'm not a electronics guy so if I can do this anybody with a steady hand can do this.
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Gabby_duck
Posted on Friday, October 23, 2015 - 09:23 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Fingers are crossed as I said above I will give the verdict tomorrow.
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Gabby_duck
Posted on Saturday, October 24, 2015 - 09:40 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

OK 32 miles with repaired ECM no codes and no historic codes.Re hooked up problem ECM 25 miles No codes no problems ????????
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Buellistic
Posted on Saturday, October 24, 2015 - 12:11 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

"HARLEY-DAVIDSON and aftermarket technicians and parts persons making "MECHANICS and PARTS MEN" out of BUELL Riders since 1983 !!!"
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Akbuell
Posted on Saturday, October 24, 2015 - 04:16 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

The good news is that the problem is now confined to the ECM. Or better said, the ECM and its connectors.

The suspect ECM not throwing codes now COULD be due to the stresses of removal/installation has allowed whatever was 'somewhat' connected to now be more securely connected. Or a pin/socket in one of the connectors is now clean and tight. Perhaps a bit of corrosion?

Glad the specific problem area has been identified. Dave
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Gabby_duck
Posted on Saturday, October 24, 2015 - 05:40 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Thats makes the most sense to me Akbuell.Nothing has change except R&R of the two ECM's.We will see??
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Gabby_duck
Posted on Sunday, October 25, 2015 - 08:22 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Actually thinking about removing each socket from the grey and black connectors and and inspect for corrosion or bad crimp.
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Buellmeister57
Posted on Sunday, October 25, 2015 - 10:38 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

My 09 Uly has similar issues, sometimes on a very hot day the idle will "hang" at 2000 rpm. I also got a code for vehicle speed sensor and the speedo would stop working occasionally. That seems to have fixed itself as it hasn't happened in a couple months. I have replaced the IAC, TPS and 02 sensor.
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Buellmeister57
Posted on Sunday, October 25, 2015 - 10:45 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Gabby Duck, I lived in Palm Bay in the 90's, rode with the Space Coast BMW Riders. Good times.
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Gabby_duck
Posted on Sunday, October 25, 2015 - 10:53 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Buellmeister57 keep those parts you change they are probably still good.If parts changing didn't solve an issue.Did you clean out your IAC ports one is below and the other is above throttle plate/butterfly. Did you clean both sides of your throttle plate.One way to check your TPS sensor is to go to a graph mode on your diagnosis software. Roll the throttle to open and close and look for gaps in the graph.
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Akbuell
Posted on Sunday, October 25, 2015 - 01:12 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

One other thought, although I feel sure you have already checked for this.

It might be that in removing/installing ECMs, you have rearranged the wiring harness bundles. Perhaps a bundle was rubbing against something and a wire or wires have chaffed enough to 'leak'. Moving them about 'reset' them, which is another possibility for the suspect ECM to not throw codes now.

Hope this helps, Dave
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Gabby_duck
Posted on Sunday, October 25, 2015 - 05:47 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Yes I did think about the harness.removed all tape and visually inspected the harness and found no issues.when I wrapped the harness back up the code was still present. Dave you can go to O'REILLY auto parts and rent a noid light kit.or buy the one at harbor freight) Unplug the IAC plug. Now plug in the obvious Iac test noid light to the iac female connector. With out starting the bike when you put the key on and power switch on the led lights will rapidly flicker (that means your signal is good)
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Buellmeister57
Posted on Sunday, October 25, 2015 - 08:24 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Gabby duck, I cleaned the IAC ports and throttle plate, ports were pretty dirty. Ran into a guy who had an 09 Uly with similar issues. Said he took it to a dealer and they found a wire going to the IAC had rubbed thru the insulation. Haven't had time to to check this out.
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Gabby_duck
Posted on Monday, October 26, 2015 - 01:28 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Buellmeister57 keep us informed So we can hopefully find a possible solution that might be a common issue or just another area to look.I always try to let folks know what I have done correctly or wrong when troubleshooting
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Gabby_duck
Posted on Monday, October 26, 2015 - 01:43 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Buellmeister57 one thing I do that I forgot to mention. I always clear the codes and reset my ECM Adaptive fuel back to factory. After each repair and before each test ride (being this is a idle issue/running problem.)
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Buellmeister57
Posted on Monday, October 26, 2015 - 09:03 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Unfortunately I don't have any diagnostic equipment or a dealer I trust. Old school here, worked on Harleys and cars for years. Carburetors, electronic ignition, etc, I can fix.
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Gabby_duck
Posted on Tuesday, November 10, 2015 - 03:39 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Bike is running fine.Solution ???
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Gabby_duck
Posted on Tuesday, November 10, 2015 - 07:32 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

I would remove each socket on J1 & J2,that's the grey and black connectors. Inspect each crimp one at a time for corrosion and properly crimp sockets
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Gabby_duck
Posted on Friday, November 13, 2015 - 12:17 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

This TPS procedure is used for 08-10 copied from race ECM instructions sheet. Note:differs from service manual.Note released completely and let snap back to close position. Note:IAC avg calibration
TPS Zeroing:
A) DDFI3 race ECMs (2008 - 2010): two things need to be done after installation of this race
ECM to make sure everything works properly:
1)TPS re-set
1)Turn the key on and make sure kill switch is on run. Leave this way until step 6.
2)Do not start bike.
3)Turn throttle to full open and hold about one second.
4)Release throttle completely so it snaps shut. Wait One second.
5)Repeat the steps 3 and 4 (full throttle, hold and release) two more times.
6)Turn the key off for at least two seconds.
7)Then you can turn on and start.
2)IAC averaging re-set
start bike and let it idle for ten minutes.
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Gabby_duck
Posted on Sunday, June 05, 2016 - 02:57 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Resolution was the IAC harness from the IAC were a little melted together from engine heat.I removed the insulation wrap and separated the hardness wires from each other
I also rerouted that same harness away from the coil pack.i was thinking the coil might be causing IAC signal to become corrupted I haven't had any issues for a couple of thousand miles.
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Buellmeister57
Posted on Monday, June 06, 2016 - 09:19 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Thanks for sharing that information with us. Gives me something to look for.
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Gabby_duck
Posted on Friday, September 22, 2017 - 07:28 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Check by visual and feeling injector wires for lump inside the wire insulation.This is an internal (inside of wire insulation) cut bad area and repair with solder and heat shrink. I'm adding this as to something else I have found. 50,000 miles and still going. All OEM !
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