| Author | Message | ||
     Longshot |
More misadventures on my 2010 Lightning Long.... I leaned too deep into the first right-hander of my commute and low-sided at maybe 10mph. Damage seemed to be just the mirror, brake lever, foot peg, and a nice hole in the saddlebag. Fortunately the hard saddlebag kept the swing arm and right side of the bike from hitting the ground. I picked it up, checked it over, and rode to work. Along the way I hit stop and go traffic. It seemed like the clutch was dragging but it was so subtle at first that I wasn't sure. Further along it got a lot worse. At a red light in first with the clutch pulled in, the bike strained to roll forward. Then there was a rattling, grinding noise, and then the bike lunged forward against the brakes and stalled. Clutch will not disengage now at all. I inspected the free play at the lever, the cable itself, the ramp assembly, and the lip in the primary case where the ramp assembly goes - all are okay. Based on what I've read on badweb I suspect the primary chain adjuster or the spring plate failed. The real question is, could this morning's low side possibly have caused this? So far it seems to me the answer is no, but I'd appreciate people's thoughts on the matter. I'll post back once I've found the culprit, but that won't be until at least 10/19. | ||
| Reepicheep |
Seems unlikely that it was anything but the lowside that caused it. Not impossible, but really unlikely. I doubt its the primary tensioner either. Unless it broke in two and ejected something that got ingested somewhere else, I don't see how that could cause the clutch to be engaging. And I don't see how a lowside could effect the tensioner unless you slid belly first into a tree or something, and completely crushed the exhaust (read:skidplate). The shifter assembly is just a bridge bolted in there with a shaft and a pawl, so it's pretty common for there to be issues with that after a low side on the left side. That could cause shifting issues, but clutch issues? That clutch cable where it goes into the primary is pretty fragile, that could be broken and that could cause what you are seeing. Or it could be something inside on that primary cover or lip that you won't be able to see until you remove it. Good luck! | ||
| Longshot |
Thanks Reep! The more I've looked at the manual the more I agree. My prime suspect right now is the clutch shell needle bearing, as discussed in this thread: http://badweatherbikers.com/buell/messages/142838/ 650041.html?1337661571 Now I'm worried about potential filings or chips from that bearing getting into the transmission. I don't want to have to split the cases and tear the whole thing down to clean it out. Also, every time I've inspected or changed the primary fluid, it's been a little bit milky looking, with a milkshake froth coating the back of the inspection cover. Is this a sign of moisture getting in? The clutch cable boots are in good shape and in the right place, so I would hope the primary is adequately protected from moisture. The cable end is just fine.The lip appears to be fine as well - when I had the inspection cover off yesterday, I could squeeze the clutch lever and watch the ramp compress the diaphragm spring. If the lip were broken, I think I'd see the ramp assembly pull itself inward without the diaphragm spring flexing. This promises to be expensive. What a drag! Get it? Drag? | ||
| Reepicheep |
Espresso on the inspection cover is par for the course, it often looks like that. So no worries there. A broken thing in there is always a little worry, and since you know you have to take it apart anyway, no point in running it any more until you check. Once you get it open, you can probably flush pretty well without splitting cases. There are passages there for lubricant to circulate. The primary cover can be repaired a couple of ways, but they may also be reasonable on ebay from part out's. It's something that would survive a crank failure. | ||
| Buellistic |
Check this BEARING PN 8885 !!! | ||
| Longshot |
Buellistic, is 8885 the bearing visible in the fourth row of photos here? http://www.becausemotorcycle.net/buell-xb-tech-clu tch-dragging/ If so, that doesn't seem to be the problem. Both races and all the balls are there, and there's no pitting, nicks, scratches, rust, or other obvious damage. If the 8885 bearing seizes, will that effectively lock the clutch hub to the clutch shell? Seems to me the clutch shell needle bearing would do that, but I can't tell about the 8885. | ||
| Buellistic |
OLD SCHOOL: You should get a FACTORY SERVICE MANUAL and PARTS BOOK for your YEAR/MODEL BUELL ... Why get a PARTS BOOK, well there are no part numbers for all the parts in the FACTORY SERVICE MANUAL ... When "i" try to help it is FACTORY name of parts and part numbers so no one is miss led or gets confused ... First of all just falling down would not done anything to the clutch itself ... You did not say if you BROKE the clutch lever when you fell, which means you would have to loosen the clutch adjustment to replace(DID YOU ???) ... If you BROKE the clutch cable at the fitting where the clutch cable goes into the PRIMARY COVER you would be complaining about oil leaking out of said broken cable fitting ... There is one STEP left out of the FACTORY SERVICE MANUAL on the clutch adjustment which does not allow the perfect clutch adjustment ... | ||
| Longshot |
Buellistic, I already have the FSM, just didn't have it with me when I wrote that last post. P/N 8885 is simply labeled "bearing" in the FSM. It is indeed the bearing in the fourth row of photos on the page I linked to, which is also the bearing in the adjuster screw assembly. This bearing is not the problem on my bike - it looks great and spins freely. The only other bearing in the clutch diagram is the clutch shell bearing. If the clutch shell bearing seizes, the clutch shell will be locked to the clutch hub, even with the plates disengaged. | ||
| Longshot |
Yep, it was the clutch shell bearing. It barely made it out in one piece before letting go of all the little rollers. |
