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Turbooster
Posted on Sunday, September 27, 2015 - 08:53 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Yesterday on a poker run, my piston position light ("V") began staying on on my 2006 Ulysses. When I turn on the key, it comes on, then goes off to indicate I can start, then a few seconds later it comes back on and stays on. I didn't notice any difference in performance--I've ridden about 100 miles since. Any ideas what is amiss?
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Froggy
Posted on Sunday, September 27, 2015 - 09:22 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

You need to check what code triggered it (either use ECMspy software, or do it the old fashioned way with jumping the pins), the light is just a generic indicator that there is a fault. Most likely culprit is the interactive exhaust actuator, the older ones were made with plastic gears and can easily strip. It would throw code 21 if it fails.
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Turbooster
Posted on Tuesday, September 29, 2015 - 03:30 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

I'm totally inexperienced with this. I tried the test of (air box cover off) kill switch off, throttle open, ignition on, and nothing moved. Is that sufficient to get a new exhaust actuator? If I should check for "code 21," I would appreciate directions on how to do it. Thanks for your help. You have already been helpful!
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Froggy
Posted on Tuesday, September 29, 2015 - 03:58 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Directions on how to manually pull the code, along with a list of codes is here: http://www.badweatherbikers.com/cgibin/discus/show .cgi?142838/722928

That test on your actuator, assuming you did it right, likely proved your actuator failed, but I'd check the code to make sure before spending any money.
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Reepicheep
Posted on Tuesday, September 29, 2015 - 04:02 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Doesn't the kill switch need to be at "run" for the actuator to work?
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Turbooster
Posted on Tuesday, September 29, 2015 - 04:40 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

I discovered that I have a blown fuse. We'll see if replacing it fixes the problem, or if the problem is elsewhere and blows it again. The brake lights and horn were not working either.
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Turbooster
Posted on Tuesday, September 29, 2015 - 06:42 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Well, I replaced the fuse and the "V" light went off. Horn, brake light, and actuator work now, but the actuator squeaks. I did run the diagnostic test (neat!), and I got a 21 code and a 16 code. I have a new battery as of about a month ago. The previous battery kept running down. So I guess a new actuator is in order, and I don't know about the battery voltage.
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Froggy
Posted on Tuesday, September 29, 2015 - 06:47 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

The code 21 could be just because it didn't work while the fuse was out, now that your actuator is working it shouldn't throw the CEL anymore. The old codes will clear themselves after about 50 starts.
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Turbooster
Posted on Wednesday, September 30, 2015 - 12:44 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Thanks, Froggy.
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