| Author | Message | ||
     4cammer |
After dumping 1/4 qt of my last bottle of Formula+ on the floor under my '07 XB9R last week (the drain plug goes in 1st...) figured I would try Mobil 1 as that is what I had available. Here is what i have found after 150 miles: * Easier engagement from N to 1st from a dead stop * Better, smoother shifts from 1st to 2nd - still not as good as 2-3,3-4,4-5 but it never will be. * Improved shifts from 2nd thru 5th. * Improved downshifts Still not Kawasaki like, and I do not expect it to be, but my shifting has become more positive and less clunky with this simple change. I have 5K+ miles on my bike and the Form+ that was taken out last week had maybe 1K on it. Don't see ever using the Form+ again. Also used Mobil 1 for the first time last week in the engine (switched from Amsoil) and she does seem to rev up and down a bit more freely - though that might just be a bit more mental than anythng else. | ||
| Dpoole |
Answers my question - I'm changing my 04 XB12S. Mobil1 V-Twin in the tranny is is. Where do you buy Mobil1 for V-Twins? Wally doesn't have it, and I don't think dealers CAN sell it; Can they? Thanks. | ||
| Lighting |
Try Auto Zone, if they don't have it in the shelf just order and they usually get it with in a day or two, you can also go to Discount Auto or Pep Boys, most of those chains auto supplierz can get it for you, good luck..........PETE | ||
| Sloppy |
HINT: You don't NEED v-twin oil. Regular synthetic Mobil1 works as well and you can buy it at Wally World. | ||
| Brakes2late |
I got mine at Auto Zone but it seems not all of them carry it. | ||
| Xgecko |
everywhere that I have seen/bought Vtwin it's $3-$5 more per quart than regular 15-50 M1 syn...I didn't notice a difference in either my tranny or my engine to justify spending the extra money so I don't...I buy M-1 15-50 extended performance in the 5 quart bottle. That gives me 2 engine and one tranny change on a 3K every other cycle...been doing it for 20K miles with good results | ||
| Davidoforlando |
OK. So I just changed my engine and tranny oil to Mobil 1 T-twin 20w-50 and it runs smoother, is quieter and actually seems to idle better. I like it!!! But on another post the "poster" said to be careful of stator damage by using synthetic in the tranny. Any thoughts? | ||
| Sloppy |
If you do an additional search you'll see that it's not synthetic oil that may cause the problem, it's "GL-5" gear oils -- it doesn't matter if it's synthetic or non-synthetic. Mobil1 engine oil is a GREAT selection for both the engine and tranny. | ||
| One |
 Im glad this thread is new cuz I need the answer in a few miles for my oil change. I cant seem to find the V-twin Mobile 1 either but I have no problem finding Mobile 1.Is Syn -3 really cheap insurance, or do I follow the M1 web sight recommendations and wait for V-twin What about shear additives? I know some of you are engineers and others experts but whats a poor ordinary rider to believe ps I have about 21000 miles on now mostly with syn-3 | ||
| Sloppy |
Buell says to use an API C grade oil. Mobil 1 is that C grade. 15-50 is the proper vis. There is no requirement from Buell to use V-twin grade oil. Go buy some beer and Mobil1. Change oil and go relax with your beer. If you're interested in detailed oil analysis look up Motorcycle Consumer News on web. | ||
| One |
Thanks sloppy I was waiting for an answer to weigh with the other info Ive garnered from this site.At least I feel Im making an informed decision. Also thanks for taking me seriously even with a bunch of emotives.  | ||
| Jsimpkins |
One, Your quite the smiley artist. I'm kinda hesitant to bring this up...but I use AeroShell 15w-50 Multi-Vis Semi-synthetic aviation oil. Same cost as Mobile 1, and is specifically designed for air cooled, push rod engines. If its good enough for my airplane (its not failed yet) I guess its good enough for my Buell. j- | ||
| Texas_firebolt |
i personally like amsoil fully synthetic 20w50. after changing it out when i first got the bike i noticed the cooling fan comes on less than half as much as it did. (and its specially formulated for motorcycles) | ||
| Eicas |
I have used Mobile 1 in my bikes for at least 10 years without any problems. I have also tried Amsoil, but could not see any difference. Both oils worked better than regular mineral base oils that came with the bikes and was used for break in. On my next oil change on the Buell,(at 2,000 mi.), I am thinking of switching to Schaeffer synthetic oil. For me it is available locally, affordable, and I like what I have read about it. I however doubt that I would be able to tell any difference between any of the "good" synthetic brands. I think that the important thing is to pick a "good" quality oil of the correct viscosity and stick with it. I like synthetic oils because it does not break down like regular mineral base oils does, so with regular filter changes you can leave it in much longer. With synthetic oils I think that I may have a slight increase in mpg, and the engines seem to run cooler and shift better. | ||
| Sloppy |
Don't forget the API "C" classification! "C" oils have greater detergent properties which are a good thing for air cooled engines. Not all synthetics are "C" grade - many syn oils are just "S" grade. Google American Petroleum Institute (API) for greater details. Mobil1 is both "C" and "S" grade... | ||
| Arctic_firebolt |
I had the 1K check done at HD, GAWD FORBID or they will claim they can void your warranty. I had the dealer use the Syn3 in the engine and chaincase and I do not believe they change the trans fluid at 1K. HD states that you can use the Syn3 in all three wells. Of course Syn3 is the ONLY synthetic motor oil Certified by HD. Go figure!  BTW you can get the V-Twin Mobil 1 20W50 at Wally World. I found it over by a very small number of helmets, waxes, and eyewear, away from the automotive oils. They also had 10W40 Sport Bike Mobil 1. I paid $8.55 Qt. I plan on using it in my Harley, chaincase and trans.  I find it interesting that some of you are using 15W50. I hate paying extra for something that doesn't work any better. Maybe that's a better way to go. I am at 2500 miles now. (Message edited by Arctic_Firebolt on August 02, 2008) | ||
| Werewulf |
if you believe donnie peterson, he states that under no circumstances use aviation oil in a motorcycle... for what its worth.. | ||
| Kimberley |
Please be patient with me.....I've owned and worked on my Harley's for over 5 years. Used SYN3 in all the holes (engine, primary, tranny). So.....if I'm reading all these posts correctly, I can use Mobile 1 15w50 in all the holes on my '09 Uly, right? I know some of you are rolling your eyes as you've probably answered this a million times by now. Sorry! I just want to make sure I'm understanding this issue correctly. I've suspected for awhile that I could use a different brand of oil but could never get a straight answer out of the HD people. Thanks in advance!!  | ||
| Reepicheep |
Yes, it will work fine. It is a little lighter then the 20w50, but it is within the specs your manual calls for. I use any diesel rated full synthetic 20w50 oil I can find in the motor, and use the HD formula+ in the transmission. As the formula + is rated for 10k miles, it has not been a big deal to keep a bottle on the shelf. | ||
| Fahren |
I have "free" 2-day shipping from Amazon (you pay to be an Amazon "prime" member). It makes it worthwhile to buy Mobil 1 v-twin 20w50 from there. They have royal purple max cycle, too, but it's nowhere near the cost. | ||
| Mbo54 |
I concur with Sloppy and One above. According to the research that I have done, it should be fine to use Mobil 1 15W-50. I looked through the API and here: http://www.upmpg.com/tech_articles/motoroil_viscos ity/. If anyone has any research that shows 15W-50 will be harmful in the primary, please let us know. Otherwise, I plan on using regular Mobil 1 15W-50 for the engine and primary. | ||
| Fahren |
For the primary, I on't know about 15w50, but you definitely do not need to stay with 20w50: Royal Purple web site specifically recommends 10w30 Max Cycle for Buell primary, and 20w50 Max Cycle for engine. Never tried Royal Purple, though - so many have been totally fine with 20w50 syn oils in both holes, it just makes it easier. | ||
| Buford |
Tried RP Max Cycle 20-50 in the tranny and had shifting issues. Changed it out the next day to M1 Vtwin 20-50 and hard shifting issues cured. | ||
| Europachris |
Aviation oil isn't necessarily bad, but it sure isn't good (or better) for anything except aviation engines. Aviation oils (as are the engines it goes in) are firmly rooted in 1940's technology. Where else would anyone still even consider running a non-detergent straight weight mineral oil for engine break-in? Aviation oils (once you get past the straight mineral oils) are "ashless dispersant" and NON-DETERGENT. The dispersant function means the oils at least keep the crud in suspension so the filter (or oil screen) can catch it. The ashless part means the additives won't form deposits (ash) in the combustion chamber that might lead to preignition. Some aviation oils do have EP additives specifically for Lycoming engines that like to eat camshafts, and also anti-corrosion additives to prevent internal rusting on engines that are not frequently flown. Lastly, they are designed to handle the buildup of LEAD that comes from blowby, etc. from the combustion process. Use auto oil in an aviation engine and it will die a quick death from clots of lead oxide buildup in the 'arteries'. Google Mobil 1 aviation oil and see what happened when the synthetic base stock couldn't handle the lead, and avgas has a LOT of lead, even 100LL (LL - "low lead"). Conversely, I've read stories of people running av oils in cars and having engines sludge themselves to death in a few years. Other aviation engines, specifically the Rotax 912/914 series, which are flat-4 4-stroke engines, recommend unleaded premium autogas and MOTORCYCLE oils due to the gear reduction and slipper clutch. These little engines have much in common with our motorcycles, even though they have water cooled heads. They are small displacement and cruise at 5000+ crankshaft rpm and the gear reduction gives a low (and quiet) prop rpm. Basically, av oils are optimized for av engines - large displacement, slow rpm, air cooled engines that run continuously at high power settings (typically 75% of full power) and the very specific fuel used. The only thing a Buell and a Cessna have in common is air cooling. My Cessna 140 gets Philips X/C 20W-50 and my Buell is fed Mobil V-Twin. Chris | ||
| Towpro |
I am new to Buell (I pickup my used uly this weekend), but not new to lubricants. I have been reading post about different oils destroying the stator in Buell motors, but have not really seen a cause posted. Here is what I believe the problem is: GL-5 gear oil has a larger additive package of sulphur/phosphorus to act as an Extreme Pressure additive. My research indicates this additive, along with heat will attack brass (and copper). I learned about the problem while researching lubricants for a NV4500 manual transmission Dodge used around 1998. GL-5 fluid would cause the brass synchronizers to go bad because the additives would eat the surface of them when the oil gets hot. For this reason, they recommended GL-4 for the NV-4500 (or special Dodge fluid). I think this trans was also shared with GM. Since Brass contains Copper, can one assume this might be what is causing the stators to go bad? Anyway, sorry if this was posted here somewhere else, but in the couple hours I spend last night searching "what to run in my primary".I did not the problem explained this way. Will R (Message edited by towpro on September 18, 2009) | ||
| Johnyrush |
I use Mobil 1 V-Twin 20W-50 Synthetic Motorcycle Oil for the engine and transmission in my 2002 X1. One time I used a "gear" oil in the transmission and it ruined the stator. If you get the oil that is made for motorcycles it costs more but it will have additives that give the proper frictional characteristics necessary for the wet-clutch. And still flow in low-temperatures. | ||
| Bamabuellbiker |
This is the first time ive read about using motor oil in the primary. which is Better moto oil or trans fluid.. I have a track day coming up and thinking about using the oil in the primary. | ||
| Brakes2late |
I've used Mobile 1 15w-50 in my 06 Uly primary for 93,000 miles with no issues. I change it every 10K miles. | ||
| Reepicheep |
Motor oil is fine, it might not shift as well and won't last as long as true gear oil. True gear oil has additives that resist getting chopped up by gears. They can't put these additives in motor oil, because if they were ever burned in a combustion chamber they leave nasty residue. | ||
| Bamabuellbiker |
Had to put Mobile1 racing 4t 10W-40 in the primary. Do I need to get that stuff out NOW!!! or will it be fine? Doing Road Atlanta track day in a week. Also what is the best brand gear oil( Sport-trans) Thanks |
