| Author | Message | ||
     Thorn48sw |
Hey guys! I've got the terrible pulsing front brake happening. Had the bike for about 1k miles and is been like this since I got it. Dealer says it's warped. Got the Lyndale gold pads but was wondering if I should take off the rotor and clean it before trying the pads or just get a new rotor. Do I need to get the rotor off to clean it? Is the ,outing hardware only one use? New rotors are so expensive now (300+) and I can't find the 6mm rotor a lot of the threads suggest. Any suggestions for me? Thanks guys! | ||
| Buellistic |
Call Al at www.AmericanSportBile.com for a new rotor ... Get a DIAL INDICATOR from HARBOR FREIGHT and check for run out ... Clean PADs and ROTOR first ... (Message edited by buellistic on October 27, 2014) | ||
| Terrys1980 |
This is the best tool for cleaning the rotor. http://www.braketech.com/index.php?option=com_cont ent&view=article&id=83&Itemid=100 If you are not careful those composite brake pads will do the same thing to the rotor. I recommend sintered pads. They do not leave deposits on the rotor. | ||
| Froggy |
The rotor is likely fine, very few XBs actually have warped a rotor. The usual culprit is brake dust buildup. It can get into the mounting hardware and gum it up. When that happens the rotor won't float correctly and you feel it pulse in the lever. Another cause is brake pad deposit buildup on the rotor surface itself. When you come to a stop and hold the bike in place with the front brake, sometimes as the pads cool they will bond to the rotor, you will feel pulsing as the high spots from the deposits run under the pads. I recommend getting new rotor mounting hardware from EBR, and while you have the rotor off, use something like this to scrub the rotor clean - http://americansportbike.com/newdir/Item/16055 Between a clean rotor and the reduced float rotor hardware, your pulsing should be cured. In the future don't use the front brake to hold the bike in place, the rear is a better option. | ||
| Al_lighton |
What Froggy wrote. Another thing that you should do EVERY TIME YOU CHANGE THE PADS is to eject the pistons as much as you dare (not all the way out or you'll be disassembling the caliper...use a wood block to limit how far they come out), and then with a strip of linen and brake cleaner, clean the pistons before pushing them back into their bores. Not doing so will cause them to not retract as much when you release the brake, and this can lead to deposition layer issues as well. It also dirties your brake fluid more if don't clean the pistons prior to retracting them. Note that the EBR mounting kit supposedly requires a wheel with half the runout as a stock wheel can have. There is less rotor float with the EBR system. Before you do ANYTHING, go to an unused road...go 30-40MPH, and come to a near stop fast...not a stoppie, but halfway there, 10 times in a row. Your brakes should be VERY hot after doing this. Sometimes that's all it takes to temporarily remove or reduce the problem. But it might come back. | ||
| Blakeaspencer |
I'd like to hijack this thread. My uly front rotor is grooved a bit and I need new pads. I was wondering what my options are for an uptake for the stock rotor. I like the slotted rotor but I can't find out if it is compatable with my ztl1. Also what type of pads are you guys using? | ||
| Terrys1980 |
Blake any disc that fits the ZTL2 will fit the 1. The Galfer DF820W for example. EBC HH Sintered is what I ran on both my bikes that had the Galfer. | ||
| Froggy |
Yep, any XB, 1125, or EBR front rotor will work. Go for whatever fits your budget and style. |
