| Author | Message | ||
     Blake |
Kent: Fuel vent clear? Water in fuel? Obstruction in fuel line? Bad karma? | ||
| Chuck |
Clark, How long has your bike been parked? | ||
| Skeptic |
Sidewinder install question: The "4th" hole in the air filter gasket is, I believe, a float bowl vent. Should it be vented to outside air (unfiltered), or inside the intake? My sidewinder pretty much blocks it, but I cut the gasket to allow it to tie to the intake. What is the correct thing here? | ||
| Skeptic |
Waxy buildup inside carb: Does anyone know what causes a very wax-like deposit inside the carb - all the way from the intake mouth to the inside of the manifold runners? It is the same color as untinted candle wax, but a little softer. Theories include: - inevitable with 10% ethanol gas - Leak in intake tract causing ??? ( I have some driveability problems) ??? | ||
| Jerome |
Thunderbolt : if your O2 sensor is not contaminated and you have a good electric connection between the sensor and the gauge, you can believe its reading after 20mn riding ! If it says it's slightly rich, there's no way you could have a lean carburetion. The voltage difference between rich and lean is what makes the interest of the tool. It's relatively large and you can't make a mistake on this. You may think that your jet setup is too small compared to usual recommendations, but I think that usual recommendations are most often too rich, just to be sure that the guy will not come back to the store with a hole in the rear piston. When I had the CV carb on my Cyclone, the main jet was a 175 instead of the standard 195, after tuning with the a/f gauge. On the Mikuni, a 165 is often recommended and I actually use a 157.5 after tuning... No pinging at all, a bike running stronger than with the "recommended" tuning, as little carbon deposit as possible in the combustion chamber, good mileage, what else to ask for ? | ||
| Ocbueller |
Clark, My bet is intake manifold gaskets. They will inevitably fail. It will cause a lean condition which your choke is compensating for. Mine failed at around 14,000 miles and three and a half yrs. Cheap and easy to fix. SteveH | ||
| Aaron |
<snip> | ||
| Aaron |
  Some air cleaner testing I did today on the S1. Al: note how the bike is back to "normal" on a sunny dry 85 degree day. No changes. AW | ||
| Aaron |
oops, forgot to put rpm on the hp chart. | ||
| S2no1 |
Aaron, Isn't the race air cleaner the same as a Ham Can on the S2's? Arvel | ||
| Aaron |
It's similar, but not the same. The race kit filter is a little bigger element & different backing plate. | ||
| Loki |
Aaron, Was this done with or without any appreciable air flow past the bike? Loki | ||
| Airborne |
Clark: Other things to check for. I've had that problem before but on my other bike. While you are tearing your bike apart give the carb a real good cleaning inside and out. Varnish build up can make your bike run rough. Pay particular attention to the needle and jets. Check for holes in the diaphragm too. Every spring I give my other bike a good carb cleaning and the inside is usually red from the dye that oil refineries put in the fuel. The bike runs like its brand new after the cleaning. | ||
| Aaron |
Loki: Without. I was just curious about the effect of more intake length. Clearly from 5000 to 6000 rpm the Force is catching a wave, as it outperforms the zero-restriction configuration despite having a filter in place. AW | ||
| Rocketman |
Looks like the force set-up is the way to go if like me you're tired of the ham can look. I want one of these...........  Thanks Aaron, just the test I was looking for. I was hoping there wouldn't be any significant power loss with the Force type. I shall take that chart as proof of what you said at Croix. Rocket in England | ||
| Loki |
Aaron, Tanks fer the heads up.... All I can say is that the Sidewinder is a winner in the real world on the road. To bad it would take rocket science to simulate real world air movement. No pun intended Rocketman. All that and my knee has plenty-o-room. Loki | ||
| Caboose |
Will my 2001 X1 still run properly if I install a Vance&Hines slip-on muffler. Will the Stock ECM function or will my bike run like crap. Thanks for the help guys. I'm new to Buell and DDFI. I plan to install the Buell race kit, but for now I'd just like more sound from my bike. | ||
| Jima4media |
Caboose, Your X-1 will run like crap because it will be running too lean with just a slip and the stock ECM. You need to do everything at once with the race kit. If you want to do something, you can do the K&N filter and the race ECM first, and it will cough a little at low RPMs, then the next month get the race header and muffler to really let it breath. Have run, and start practicing riding a unicycle. Jim X-2.5 http://caferacers.editthispage.com | ||
| Moperfserv |
The shop I work at (Manley Cycle, Mpls., MN) bought an M2. Iput it on the dyno and had to make quite a few adjustments to the carburation. It has a Dynojet kit in it. I'd really like to try the stock needle-jet/emulsion tube because the existing kit goes too rich at part throttle. (too few holes in the emulsion tube.) Anyone have a stock emulsion tube, needle, and slide-spring(?) | ||
| Bigblock |
Hey Mo, ping me at my e-mail with your mailing address and I'll mail ya the tube and needle, sorry, I don't have a spring. Ray | ||
| Troop |
Aaron - Any guess as to the HP/torque numbers with the stock intake in place ? Wondering how much improvement the after-markets add on ? | ||
| Aaron |
Troop ... no ... I've seen conflicting data so I'd have to run the test myself, which I haven't done. The stock box is too much trouble and too ugly for me anyway. AW | ||
| Clark |
Listers: Last week posted query on M2 carb problem. Took advise from fellow list readers. I disassembeled the manifold and replaced the intake and carb seals. Who said it was easy to change out. Is there a special Allen head tool, that gives easier access and torqueing available? Yes I followed the shop manuals directions, for removal/install. I had a hell of a time using my existing Allen wrenches. The seals did not look bad no cracks. What would indicate failure on the seals? Carb appears to have suffered backfire flame out, internally. White and black discoloration, on slide and in carb body. I disassembeled, cleaned and rebuilt the carb. The original float bowl gasket on the carb has an O ring formed in it. The rebuild kit does not. The carb break down drawing in the shop manual also does not show my original gasket. Does Buell offer a different rebuild kit for the CV carb, than Harley. I figured the carbs for the 1200 Sportster and Buell would be the same. Also can the carb body with the various plastic pieces on it be submerged in carb cleaner? I held of on doing it this way. I used spray cleaner. Sorry for the long post. | ||
| Peter |
Clark, Cut down an Allen key to get the bolts out. Beware of getting carb cleaner on rubber parts. Depending on the cleaner/type of rubber etc, they can swell up. I sprayed some on my slide and later had trouble getting a swollen diaphragm to fit. I got it in, but then had no more power above half throttle. I had to buy a new slide/diaphragm to fix the problem. PPiA | ||
| Robr |
Tom, Regarding a fuel injection to carb conversion, I'm quite sure there are different approaches, but here is mine. I used a Kehnin CV40 carb. The stock Buell cables work with this carb. The carb and manifold bolt right on but the X1 airbox contacts the upper part of the carb so it will need to be modified or changed(I opted to change it). Carb was jetted at 200 main and 45 slow with a Dynojet needle clipped at the 4th position from the top. The bike runs well set up this way. The fuel pump was removed and the brass elbow/fitting on the bottom of the pump was used because it seals so well against the plastic tank. A small inline petcock from an after market catalogue and a smaller than stock fuel filter was also used. The fuel pump electrics hole in the gas tank can be successfully sealed using two washers, two flat rubber washers, and a short bolt. As for the electrical system mods, I did run the bike for a while with the stock ignition module. This was with the injector wires, fuel pump wires, and throttle position sensor wires simply taped up. Although the bike ran adequately(the carb was still in the process of being jetted), I was worried as to whether or not the ignition was advancing or retarding with just the input of the cam position sensor. On a stock carbed bike(ie.Sportser, M2), the ignition is advanced/retarded using the CPS(engine speed), verses vacuum switch(load). The fuelie ignition module has no provision for a vacuum switch input. I beleive the fuelies determine when to advance according to CPS input(engine speed) vs. TPS input(throttle position). Rather than attempt installing a TPS on the carb or risk engine damage(heavy crankshaft loads) running a no advance/retard setup, I opted to replace the ignition module with one designed to work on carbeurated motorcycles. Besides needing a vacuum operated switch(VOS), and a module, I found I would also need a coil and wires. It seems that all the after market ignitions and the Buell/Harley ignitions for carbueretted bikes are all designed to work with 3 ohm coils. The Buell ECM for fuelies is designed to work with a .7 ohm coil. The spark plug wires on fuelies are also of a different resistance than those used on non-fuelies. I decided to go with a Screamin' Eagle Adjustable Curve single fire ignition module(this keeps the single fire which is one of the nice things about the fuel injection ECM). I also went with the matching Screamin' Eagle Single Fire Coil and the Buell 8mm wires for the M2. Also the trigger rotor cup that sits behind the CPS will have to be changed, the fuelies use a 5 window cup and the carbies use a 2 window cup. Wiring all of this is fairly straight forward although you will have to know the schematic in your service manuel quite well in order to wire it into the existing wiring harness. Definetly a winter project it took me about 3 months of weekends. Was it worth it? For me a resounding yes!! Aside from finding my lost midrange(I never had a race ECM), I no longer have to rely on Harley for TPS resets, troubleshooting and repairs are straight forward. I now have an intimate knowlege of and connection with my machine. Perhaps Pammy and Neil can clarify and or add to this. Let me know if I left anything out or if you have any questions. Good Luck...Robr | ||
| Ralph |
Clark, a special allen wrench is available (from Tat for one) that will make that job much easier. Forget torqueing, it's all by feel. Unless there is a tear in the o-ring go ahead and reuse it. You'll want to throw the diaphragm into the freezer a half hour before you install it (even if you didn't put cleaner on it  ). They stretch and are hard to install. Cooling shrinks it and makes it possible to get back in there. bighairyralph | ||
| Lsr_Bbs |
FWIW, I've had no problems w/ the stock coil and wires on my carb conversion using a Crane HI-4. Here's what I did, but there's other options w/ the ignition and carb: 44mm SE CV Carb - $300 44mm SE intake manifold - $70 Crane HI-4 ignition (#8-2100) - $250 Petcock and adapter plate - $90 Voes switch - $35 Misc. deutsch connectors - $25 XL/Buell throttle cable support bracket - $10 Enricher Cable - $20 The prices are about retail, I shopped around for everything and spent about $700 total. The last 2 items are necessary because at the time the 44mm CV was made for BT's, not sportsters so those parts needed to be changed...if there's a XL 44mm kit then you don't need these. The deutsch connectors are necessary cause I didn't want to permanently alter anything that didn't have to be, so I wired my ignition into the stock ecm connections...if I ever go back to DDFI it's plug-n-play. The only permanent alteration I've done is to drill a hole in the fuel cell (they're only $115) for the petcock...I've had a difficult time getting a good, permanent seal too, and am seriously considering other alternatives (i.e., modify the stock pump to act as a pickup, and use a fuel pump from a carbed sportbike - can't use the stock buell pump as it operates at 50psi, carb only needs 5psi or less). The backplate alterations, too...still keep meaning to play w/ fiberglass and/or c/f to do a new one but don't have time right now. It took me more time researching everything than actually doing the work...now that there's known formulas and p/n's it's no biggie. I'm STILL looking for someone who can make a custom length enricher cable...who had that yellow S3 from the other day w/ the cable on the dash??? Neil Garretson X0.5 - still waiting on handlebar clamp; installing 01 isolators, new tires and nuc'd wheels...at least it'll look good while sitting in the kitchen! | ||
| Mike_E |
I have a question for eveyone, My X1 is getting really hot durning my daily 10 mile commute to work. Everyday as I get closer to work (20 min ride, mostly freeway with medium traffic), at the last few stop lights the idle speeds up when the computer tries to compensate for the added heat. I am wondering how long will the computer try to compensate for the heat before the engine light comes on, then shuts the bike off. I live in St. Paul MN so we are just gettting to the warm/hot season. I have a Crossroads intake with a Daytona Boss muffler and the race ECM, I have not replaced the left side air intake with the tank accent that I have, since I am waiting to see if I should get the fan kit first. Does anyone have any other suggestions besides the fan kit? Mike E Millennium #320 | ||
| Krboller |
Yeah....sell me the tank accents, I ride a 99X1, live on the east coast of FLA and ride in hot weather ALL THE TIME, I also have similar mods, race ECM S'trapp ids & gutted airbox and although my 99 does not have the relocated engine temp sensor on the later models it runs and feels very hot during Summer months but then, so does my S2. I have had no ill effects, verify correct static timing and ride on, a 10 mile ride barely gets the bike fully warmed. Good luck! -Kurt. | ||
| Sybren |
Mike, it helps to install a HD Dyna oilfilter. It is longer and therefore contains more oil to cool the bike down. Sybren. |
