| Author |
Message |
    
Naas
| | Posted on Monday, August 11, 2014 - 04:54 am: | 
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Hi Guys
I've got a weird problem on by Bike
This issue started 2 months ago.
Cold/Warm same problem
Starts with no problems at all. first try even if cold weather. The bike idles, when you open the throttle it goes through the rev's.
Driving is a different story though.
Any gear, opening the throttle a little or all the way the bike stutters. Like there was a ground problem of sorts - everything stays on and bike idles.
Problem light does come on and goes off while riding(not in sequence, just randomly)
The bike used to backfire but that has disappeared now.
It would randomly (in every 15th trip) run flawlessly. This was after the bike was washed.
We have done the following to try and resolve the problem
1) Proper service at a dealership
2) Gutted exhaust and put new pipes straight through
3) Replaced idling and throttle cables
4) New stator(previous one was faulty)
5) Reset TPS
Still the same problem
what I could gather from reading and trying to find similar cases it could be
1) Heat sensor (putting the bike in limp mode eg over fueling or cutting out one cylinder)
2) Intake seals leaking thus over fueling
3) regulator
Any ideas you can think of maybe?
It does not rev more than 4000 anymore, cold or warm when riding
If I go onto the freeway and open up - it stutters and it feels like it is restricting/witholding.
On very low revs below 2500 I can open up and it will go normally until above 2500 |
Reepicheep
| | Posted on Monday, August 11, 2014 - 07:22 am: |
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What do the trouble codes say?
I'd be looking for wiring and ground issues in addition to making sure the TPS was done right and the AFV had a chance to reset (or was reset manually). |
Naas
| | Posted on Monday, August 11, 2014 - 09:44 am: |
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Can't remember the error code, will ask the dealer now and come back to you)
There used to be a trouble code "Exhaust valve actuator or something" but that was removed along with the valve cable afterwards and new exhaust fitted (gutted and new pipes),
TPS couldn't be set 100% because the bike idling is not constant. They did as best they could but it differs now between cold and warm(warm struggles to idle sometimes)
I'm really starting to lean towards ground and or cabling problems.
One thing I can't get out of my mind was that on my way to a garage 2km from my house and cold. The bike stuttered, had it washed and directly after took it out - 50km's no issues what so ever. then on the way back later, stutter from the start again.
AFV?
Thanks for the help and advice |
Akbuell
| | Posted on Monday, August 11, 2014 - 10:12 am: |
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Check Doberdan's thread in this section re his '09 XB12 and loosing RPM. Careful cleaning of all of the grounds seems to have solved his issue. You may be looking at the same sort of thing. certainly a worthwhile place to start.
Hope this helps, Dave |
Naas
| | Posted on Monday, August 11, 2014 - 11:02 am: |
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Yes - I've been reading through all his comments and the advice given.
thanks guys
Just got home on it - and my left foot is black(residue) from wasted fuel out of the exhaust |
Reepicheep
| | Posted on Monday, August 11, 2014 - 12:35 pm: |
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Gutting the exhaust will cause the fuel mix to be wrong, and even if it is adjusted, could cost power. Less baffle doesn't necessarily mean more power or better running.
How wrong and how badly it runs as a result would vary, I don't know how bad it can get. |
Naas
| | Posted on Monday, August 11, 2014 - 12:44 pm: |
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Yes they told me about the power and not to expect anything.
For me it was just to get rid of the whole exhaust valve etc. because mine was broken inside the exhaust, and replacement was 6 weeks delivery here in SA.
I wonder if they reset the ECM or fuel mixture values.
As far as I can tell everything is still standard. |
Naas
| | Posted on Monday, August 11, 2014 - 12:46 pm: |
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Thanks for all the prompt responses and help guys. Really appreciate it.
First thing I'll try and do is reset the values. Read somewhere that the Fuel level value or something also need to be reset.
I'll try and find links on how to do it. |
Froggy
| | Posted on Monday, August 11, 2014 - 12:55 pm: |
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If you connect your computer to it and use ECMspy you can see what everything is doing. The AFV (what you called the fuel level value) will automatically adjust as you ride, but resetting it back to 100% helps troubleshoot issues. With correct fuel mapping, it will stay near 100%, varying on account of altitude.
It is hard to say without being there, but it could be an issue with the TPS sensor itself, or possibly just not reset correctly. |
Reepicheep
| | Posted on Monday, August 11, 2014 - 01:33 pm: |
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ECM Droid with an android tablet and a bluetooth dongle makes it really slick to watch sensor inputs for "insane" values (which could help you track down a bad sensor). |
Gabby_duck
| | Posted on Monday, August 11, 2014 - 09:10 pm: |
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You said above that your left foot is black from unburnt fuel.Check your plugs to see which cylinder isn't firing properly. Check for fouled plugs,bad plug wires,coil pack, sticking fuel injector or bad gas in the fuel tank. |
Naas
| | Posted on Tuesday, August 12, 2014 - 05:18 am: |
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Got hold of a 2008 Electrical diagnostic manual.
Just read this part - seems exactly what I'm having
"In addition to alerting the rider to trouble codes, the check engine lamp will flash during operation to warn of potentially damaging temperature
.
While this condition is in effect, the
ECM will reduce engine power to assist in cooling the engine 2008 Buell XB
Diagnostics" |
Reepicheep
| | Posted on Tuesday, August 12, 2014 - 08:17 am: |
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That is determined by head temp sensor. If you have ECM spy and the dongle, you can watch what the bike thinks the head sensor is while the bike is running, and see if it matches reality.
I believe it's just a thermistor, so you can do it with a digital volt meter (DVM) as well, but then you need to know what "normal" voltages are. |
Naas
| | Posted on Wednesday, August 13, 2014 - 02:44 am: |
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Ok Gents.
a little update for you.
I remembered when I bought the bike that sometimes when the bike starts the headlamp would flicker and I had to give the wires/front cover a little bit of a tap (not right I know) and it would come on.
I replaced the globe and battery after which the problem went away.
Last night I tested this and fiddled with the back of the globe(and most probably touched another wire) after which the bike ran flawlessly.
Did the same this morning before I left for work, and everything running as it should. power back, no stutter, no running on one cylinder crap.
So tonight or over the weekend I will search for the damaged wire in the front cover. |
Gabby_duck
| | Posted on Wednesday, August 13, 2014 - 07:43 am: |
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The electrical issues with these bikes never ceased to amaze. |
Reepicheep
| | Posted on Wednesday, August 13, 2014 - 07:54 am: |
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Start looking for internally cracked wires.... the insulation will be fine, but internally the conductors will have cracked.
The bundle around the steering neck is one common place, on an S bike the bundle where it goes near the battery terminal is another common spot for breaking or rub through. |
Gabby_duck
| | Posted on Wednesday, August 13, 2014 - 03:50 pm: |
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Reepicheep has the 09 ULY had the steering bundle wire issues. If so is their any preventive measures that one should take. |
Reepicheep
| | Posted on Wednesday, August 13, 2014 - 05:41 pm: |
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I'd say any motorcycle where the guages and lights move with the fork have the issues, some worse than others.
I think by 09 Buell had things routed better and less tighter. About the best preventative advice would be not to add a horn or HID box under the flyscreen in a place where it obstructs any of the length of that wire bundle in a stop to stop sweep of the bars.
On mine, I had a bunch of junk wedged in there, so that the length of wire bundle flexing went from maybe 10 inches to maybe 6 inches, which means a sharper flex. I suspect that contributed to my failure.
It's a pretty easy fix if you do just wait until it fails. Unbundle in obvious trouble spots, and run each wire through your fingers. It's easy to feel the copper kinked or broken. |
Doberdann1019
| | Posted on Tuesday, August 19, 2014 - 09:21 am: |
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Naas, let me know if you have any questions. It sounds similar to my issue but maybe a short instead of a ground problem. Polishing all the grounds with a wire wheel fixed it for me (75 miles with no issues so far). A short might be harder to locate.
I also was stuck below 4000rpm at one point.
You mentioned a "Exhaust valve actuator or something" code. Do you have an aftermarket exhaust that doesn't use the interactive exhaust valve? I had a similar code (which I believe is unrelated to the other electrical issues) and disabled the interactive exhaust using ECM Droid for Android. The code went away. |
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