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Buell Forum » Knowledge Vault (tech, parts, apparel, & accessories topics) » Troubleshooting (Poor Starting/Running/Handling/Ride Issues) » Archive through February 05, 2015 » Engine warning light flasining « Previous Next »

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Lets_go_riding
Posted on Thursday, June 26, 2014 - 10:59 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Hello, I have a 2006 Ulysses and there is a annoying problem with it that I am hoping someone can help shed some light on.
The problem occurs when I have been on the road for a few hours, it is hot outside and I have had the throttle open and running at about the same speed (75 to 80). What happens is the engine seems to misfire, and the engine warning light flashes. If I back off the throttle to 65 it goes away. But as I creep back up to 75 or 80, it happens again.
It is a bit unnerving especially when I am on multi day ride, and hove no desire to get stuck in East BF.. if you know what I mean (but that would add to the adventure of a ride), right?
Anybody out there experienced the same issue, or am I the only one with a Ulysses with this particular problem??
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Mrakz83
Posted on Friday, June 27, 2014 - 12:07 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Have you checked for trouble codes? How does your ECM look (possible contact with the seat)? Have you tried a TPS reset?
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Jcjohnson33
Posted on Friday, June 27, 2014 - 12:12 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Have not owned a uly, so I have to ask is it carburated? If so than it may be a fueling issue with the sustained high speed mixed in with heat causing a very lean air/fuel mixture. As in the fuel vaporizing to much before the compression cycle. But when you slow down the fuel has more time to fill the chamber. Just my guess and could be totally wrong.
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Mrakz83
Posted on Friday, June 27, 2014 - 04:17 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

It's fuel injected.
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Froggy
Posted on Friday, June 27, 2014 - 04:28 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

A flashing engine light indicates the bike is overheating (or thinks it is) and as result is going into skip spark mode, which intentionally misfires the rear cylinder to cool it off.

It could be something as simple as the engine temperature sensor, if it is reporting hotter than the bike really is it can trigger the skip spark.

I recommend hooking the bike up with a computer and recording the ride and looking at the data in ECMspy and seeing if anything out of the ordinary is happening.


Do you know what modifications the bike has?
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Al_lighton
Posted on Friday, June 27, 2014 - 05:09 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Do you have a right side scoop mounted?
Have you confirmed your fan is working?
The difference on the load on the engine between 60MPH and 80Mph is substantial, given the square law of wind resistance. Cruising at 60 on the free in reasonable ambients with no right side scoop will generally not trigger the fan, but cruising at 80 definitely will. If the fan is triggered but doesn't actually come on, the engine temperature soars.
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Gabby_duck
Posted on Saturday, June 28, 2014 - 08:06 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

I see that your in NH what is the temp where you are riding and what is your altitude above mean sea level.Have you checked for any historical codes. Do check your plugs and plug wire,coil pack condition.A lean condition could cause over heat like froggy says.The injectors could use a cleaner like chevron Techron {in a bottle}to clean them and the induction system up.I used a boroscope to inspect and it does work.Leaking manifold seals could cause lean condition.{Test seals per maint manual}.On page 4-129 fig 4-113 make sure the rubber cap is good and sealing.{emissions hose attachment}.
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Lets_go_riding
Posted on Thursday, July 31, 2014 - 07:35 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Hello all, kind of blew it with answering some questions that were asked, so here goes:
#1: The bike is bone stock, and the air scoop has only been removed when I changed the plugs but was always put back where it belongs. The fan is in proper working order. I know because I can hear it.
#2: No TPS reset, I just downloaded ECMspy, does anybody know where I can get a cable?
#3: I believe that the issue is overheating as that is one of the "common factors" when I experience this problem. I have never had the problem when riding in 50° and60° weather.
#4: The problem has occurred everywhere from Charlotte NC, to Buffalo NY to NH. The two common ingredients are the heat, and the speed that I am traveling at. If I back it off, and keep it there, it goes away.
One last thing: EBR, hurry up and make a liquid cooled version of this bike so I will have a donor bike for a Street Tracker..
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Gabby_duck
Posted on Thursday, July 31, 2014 - 08:59 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Dumb question are using 91 or 93 octane Gas.correct plugs? Did you check the intake seals.{bad fuel milage could indicate intake seal leak} What oil are you using,{try Amsoil 20-50 V twin oil} clean inlet air temp sensor. O2 sensor going bad? Did you check what froggy said above?
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Reepicheep
Posted on Friday, August 01, 2014 - 08:14 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

If you can solder and if you have an android tablet, I would go with the bluetooth modem instead of the cable. Cheaper, leave it in the bike all the time, much easier to use without trippy wires everywhere.

Something is wrong with the bike, you should be able to flog it indefinitely at speed and it should run well. ECMSpy will make it easy to roll through sensor readings and do sanity checks on them.
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Lets_go_riding
Posted on Friday, August 01, 2014 - 08:13 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Gabby_Duck, I use the highest octane fuel available wherever I stop, Sometimes 91, sometimes 93.

Reepicheep, I can solder, but I do not have an android tablet.

The weird thing is if I was to take off and do a 2 hour ride from here to the mountains, on back roads it would not happen.
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