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Rocketman
Posted on Tuesday, June 05, 2001 - 04:54 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Capbon Fibre:

I'd like to take a closer look at that tank cover. It looks way cool. How does it fit and which tank are you using ?

Perhaps you'd like to send me one to tout around England as my commision for trying to sell a few of 'em for ya.

Rocket in England
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Cap
Posted on Tuesday, June 05, 2001 - 11:39 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

I make the CF covers. They fit tightly against the tank and are held on by the front tank mount and the tank bolt. The tank looks CF with out costing $1000-2000.
The brakes work awesome and stopping distances are shorter, with less fade.
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Cap
Posted on Tuesday, June 05, 2001 - 01:05 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

The tank is the Manta Ray odd the S1W, S3, and newer M2's. I would make a cover for the smaller tanks but there are not enough of them out there to make a production run. I will take some more closeups of the tank later in the week.
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Rocketman
Posted on Tuesday, June 05, 2001 - 07:48 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

DYMAG called today. My wheel is repaired, free of charge and is been sent out tomorrow.

A new right side hub unit has been made\fitted with a strengthened bearing\pulley mount area. From what I understand an alloy sleeve has been added to the "new" design. I'll let you know more when I have the wheel.

Rocket in England
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Chuck
Posted on Thursday, June 07, 2001 - 01:10 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Hey Cap! I "fragged" my belt today...now more seriously thinking of converting to chain drive. I've got a 2000 M2; so I've got a different swingarm from yours...but can you tell me about your set up. That rear sprocket shown in your profile looks unique.
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Cap
Posted on Thursday, June 07, 2001 - 02:40 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

I run a 530 chain with a 53 tooth Sprocket Specialists sprocket and a 25 tooth PBI front sprocket. You have to buy a 91 5 speed countershaft spacer, seal, and x ring to complete the job.
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Kent
Posted on Thursday, June 07, 2001 - 03:46 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Cap,
Would you please tell me about the header wrap you are using.
1. How effective is it?(My own S1W has a Jet Hot coated pipe and does not bother me. But my wife's M2 has a black painted header and she says the heat is so intense that she wants to go bike shopping if there is no solution.)
2. Where did you get it from?
3. What's up with the black color, I've only seen it in a natural or tan color before? I like it.
4. What is the approx. cost?
Thanks,
Kent
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Court
Posted on Thursday, June 07, 2001 - 05:37 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Rocket: 3 cheers for Dymag. That is COOL!

Cap: That is a seriously good looking S-1. Any chance of getting you to post the steb-by-step belt to chain conversion here?

By the way...screw you for taking my riding buddy away. Seriously, I am thrilled about what you guys are doing. Talk to you soon.

Court
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Ralph
Posted on Thursday, June 07, 2001 - 01:52 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Chuck, there are some "issues" with a chain and the aluminum swing arm. It's really close becuause of the chain slack. I would suggest a slider on the swing arm to protect it. I'll be posting pictures of my set up when I'm happy with it. I've posted photo's in the appropriate section that Jose sent of a friends X1. You'll see from that what I mean.

Kent, those header wraps are very effective. You can get it from Speedway (Lincoln, NE), JC Whitney, or any number of performance shops. Something like $25 a role of fifty feet, one inch wide.

bighairyralph
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Jimb
Posted on Thursday, June 07, 2001 - 09:33 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

I want to share a good tire purchase experience that I had this week. After searching the web I found Discount Motorcycle Tire Inc. where I ordered a Dunlop D207 for the rear of my X1 (170/60x17). The price was $105, shipping was $14. Total price of $119. I ordered it on Saturday, 6/2 and it arrived today, Thursday, 6/7 and the order was correct.
Jim Boule
99 X1 Race Stripe

See
http://www.discountmotorcycletire.com/
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Rocketman
Posted on Friday, June 08, 2001 - 03:15 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Yep it's true, Dymag have returned my wheel to which they have fitted a new right side hub that has been modified for additional strength.

The spigot area of the magnesium hub has been removed and an alloy "tube" has been installed in to the hub to carry both (drive side) bearings and the pulley itself. This should work according to Dymag but if not they're happy to have another go with it. Please don't read to much in to this, ie, like it could fail again. I think the offer was to reasure me that they (Dymag) will stand behind their product whatever.

Nice people. They've looked after me, and a 9 day turn around + overnight shipping at their cost, and of course, nothing to pay, period, for the hub repair.

Big thanks to Dymag, not that they'll read this :) but if any of you call them, pass on my thanks to them.

Rocket in England
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Jmartz
Posted on Saturday, June 09, 2001 - 08:46 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Yesterday I helped my buddie put some new race compound D207's in his Marchesini magnesium wheels. Wow! are those light compared to the porky PM's. Even the tires are lighter w/o any rubber inside (that's why I guess they do not hold air too well).

I have just got to get myself a set of those. Wonder if I could accelerate faster?

Rocket: You never posted whether you thought your plastic Dymags made a difference in acceleration performance.

Jose
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Peter
Posted on Saturday, June 09, 2001 - 01:54 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

They might have helped the acceleration of "Farmer Rocket and his Carbon Plough", but they stuffed up his ability to go around bends without visiting the kitty litter......
PPiA
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Rocketman
Posted on Sunday, June 10, 2001 - 06:43 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Jose : I did mention earlier that when I had got to the Alps I thought I could feel a difference in flickability. As for acceleration, as you all know, I've one of the fastest Lightning's on Earth ! Without doning my space suit and "head up" display visor, it's difficult to estimate warp speed.

When Aaron "test" rode it at Croix I had to explain to him that I use the taller gearing to keep the acceleration from ripping off arms. For now, the taller gearing is temporary until NASA get back to me with a fix :)

Co-incidentally last weeks MCN UK published a small article on lightweight wheels. They consulted ex British SBK champ and current chief engineer for Kawasaki British SB team, Ray Stringer, and he said this "If you ride hard you'll notice the difference. Mainly it's the flickability at high speed. If you ride on tracks a lot, you'll notice it most" There are other advantages too, like the ability for the suspension to keep the tyres in contact with the pavement which means better drive out of corners and shorter braking distances and improved turn in.

A good example of turnability is to hold out a bicycle wheel at arms length by its spindle, spin it and attempt to turn it. The heavier the wheel the more force is needed to turn it.

As for power, you'd need to ask Aaronitis that one. He's dying to get my boat anchor on his dyno !

KITTY LITTER : I was testing my braking distance. All racers need to know their limit. Without pushing you'd never get to the edge of the envelope. Actually, I got so pissed off with grinding my foot controls and sidestand away, not to mention my expensive and not so suitable to track riding, Caterpillar boots soles away, that I decided to concentrate on learning the track some more and take a plunge at the odd real fast lap or two. Truth is, I get sucked in by the "red mist" so when I get passed I like to fight back. For a change, I adopted a more sensible attitude and did my own thing, like staying out of the way of the faster guys 'n' gals. Truth is, it's bloody scary when you get it wrong and your mind starts to equate the toil and damage you might deal yourself, more so once you've entered the "kitty litter". I can tell you, when you know it's inevitable you're going off the track you are totally focused on keeping the thing upright and at the end of the day FUN is what it's all about and I had tons of it, even if I did make an arsehole of myself (ONCE).

Next year though I'm gonna shed a few pounds and show them Johnny Foreigners the way around.

Rocket in England
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Fontx1rs
Posted on Sunday, June 10, 2001 - 11:09 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Has anyone had any trouble with the bleed plug on their front brake? Went for a 160 or so mile ride yesterday, noticed the brakes were a little weak, but I had just installed my bar end mirrors and the brake level was hitting the mirror, so I thought that was the problem. Made mental note to adjust mirror after ride. Got home and decided to wash and polish the bike. Go to but the bike in the shed. Since the doorway is small, I flipped the mirrors up and out of the way. Pull front brake level, huh? lever pulls with almost no resistance and doesn't feel like the brake works at all! Open up the resevoir and their is NO BRAKE FLUID!!! Checked around the bike and didn't notice anyplace where it might have been leaking. No fluid on the ground where I was cleaning the bike. Checked the bleeder plug and it seemed tight. Could it have been leaking during the ride everytime I hit the brake? Anyone know of any likely leak spots? Last year I put EBC green pads in and bled the brakes. Did I do something wrong? Anyone with a similar experience?
Thanks,
JoeBuell
99 RaceStripe
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Dave
Posted on Sunday, June 10, 2001 - 11:38 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

If there is no evidence of it leaking Joe, I'd suspect it may be the brake fluid level lowering to compensate for brake pad material loss. Have you checked it on a regular basis? Perhaps it was just its "time" to get so low that it sucked some air?

DAve
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Fontx1rs
Posted on Sunday, June 10, 2001 - 12:03 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

I haven't checked the pads yet, but I just put them on at the end of last season and haven't put on more than 1500 miles or so. I would hope they don't wear out that quickly. I'll check them today though. What I was thinking was that it was leaking out the bleeder plug during the ride and I had already cleaned off the wheels before I noticed the lack of brakes.
Thanks
JoeBuell
99 RaceStripe
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S2carl
Posted on Monday, June 11, 2001 - 03:46 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Attention S2 owners!

I have some rust spots on the front wheel (white marchesini) from riding in the rain that will not come out.
Any suggestions to a good cleaner that will get rid of the rust stains w/o harming the white powdercoat??

Thanks all.
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Chuck
Posted on Tuesday, June 12, 2001 - 12:43 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

try navy jelly...available at most hardware stores---they now make a formula specifically for aluminum.
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Blake
Posted on Wednesday, June 13, 2001 - 11:52 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Walmart sells a rust remover in the houshold cleaner section. Works great on ANY rust stains.
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Stoef
Posted on Friday, June 15, 2001 - 12:37 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

r
l

Dual setup with EBC ProLite rotors and Brembo 4-pist calipers. Made by Charley.
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Airborne
Posted on Sunday, June 17, 2001 - 03:14 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

How much for the dual brake set up?

Looks good.
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Charley
Posted on Sunday, June 17, 2001 - 01:51 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

the setup including brakeline,mastercylinder,2 brembo's , brackets and disks is $1475,--
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X96283
Posted on Monday, June 18, 2001 - 04:00 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Time for replacements on the tires and rotors...

Looking at D207 for front and rear. As far as fitment goes, stock is still the best size right? I keep hearing 180/55 from friends. Any other tire options I should consider? I do mostly commute trips and weekend pleasure riding.

Also on the rotors, what are some options other than stock? Does less $$ = less performance in this case?

TIA

giusto
00 m2
oahu
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Eisanmann
Posted on Monday, June 18, 2001 - 07:30 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

A friend of mine bought the Avon Azaro 2 AV36 in size 190/50/2R70, he rides a '99 M2 with stock castalloy wheels. Said the magazine he saw them in said they were the Buell replacement,that fit on stock rims?
I have the Avon Azaros in 170/60ZR17 AV36A.
Layed his tire(un-mounted) on the garage floor, layed a straight-edge on the tire and it measured the exact same width as mine?
The only problem I see is that it needs to be mounted on a 6" rim(P-M?)
Well anyway I tell him "you can't mount that tire on your rim!" Naturally he says "WHY?"
"it's to wide for that rim!"
Man, you guys need to give me a little help with a better why answer.PLEASE! before he tries to mount them.

TIA

eisanmann
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Chuck
Posted on Monday, June 18, 2001 - 10:44 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

O.K. this may be total bullshit, but here goes . . . When you mount a tire on too narrow a rim, you distort the contact patch . . . the tire "curves" too much in "cross section". And . . . you can (at some lean angles) actually end up with less rubber on the road than you'd have had, with the narrower tire, which was designed for your rim, in the first place. It's difficult, if not impossible, to compare profiles of unmounted tires . . . IMHO of course
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Rocketman
Posted on Monday, June 18, 2001 - 10:55 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Eisanmann :The profile's are different for the A and B tyres. One is for 5.5 inch rims and the other for 6 inch rims. I can't remember at this moment in time which is which but I do know that Avon do not recommend a 190 for any Buell irrespective of whether it fits or not.

Rocket in England
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Rall
Posted on Sunday, June 24, 2001 - 11:24 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Has anybody had a problem with the 2000 rotor warping? I bought a used S-2 that had a warped original rotor. So replaced it with a 2000 unit. 1000 miles later the new rotor is warped. I ride harder than most of my friends but have not abused this rotor. I thought the 2000 rotor was supposted to be a improvement. I also have a 96 S-1 with 10,000 miles that I have rode very hard that has the original rotor and no warping. What do you guys think?
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Leeaw
Posted on Monday, June 25, 2001 - 07:49 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Rall,

Did you change the brake pads at the same time your 2000 rotor warped? I had a 99 rotor that warped because one pad had worn too thin. Now I watch them closely.
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Rall
Posted on Monday, June 25, 2001 - 10:44 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Leeaw
Yes I changed the pads to EBC green. Bought them from Tat. That should not be the problem. Could the caliber be draging enought to warp the rotor? Don't know!
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