| Author | Message | ||
     Peter |
Mikej, I always wondered how much difference that 0.009" washer made when you have a look how far apart the normal adjustable needle steps are. PPiA | ||
| Mikej |
Yeah Peter, I wonder the same stuff sometimes. But sometimes it takes just that little bit of adjustment to move all those little steps into the more-right places. I've still got the stock needle in my M2. I'm sure I've got some HP hiding in the setup, but for now it seems fine. | ||
| Chuck |
My bike is a 2000 M2. It came with an NOKK needle. Can anyone explain the difference between this needle and the N65C; and what differences I might feel between the two. I recently changed the cams in my bike, and have been trying to "dial out" this tiny "flat" spot that I think occurs near 3500 rpm. My problem area seems to be at the transition between low and high speed carb "circuits". I've given up on making changes with the pilot jet and screw...now its time to experiment with needles and main jet...Thanks in advance for all of your opinions  | ||
| Leeaw |
Chuck, For the first couple of months on my 99 M2 with my V&H on, and even before replacing the airbox, I had a noticable flat spot from 3,500-4K RPM (I have a tach). The dealer could not figure it out, and told me to downshift. That's like telling someone to just keep taking Vicadin until the pain goes away. Anyway, for lack of resolution and an insatiable need to spend, I bought the race ignition and it cleared right up. Not one flat spot since, even after jetting the carb. Not saying it will work for you, but it worked for me. Lee | ||
| Sparky |
Chuck, go to the "Search the BBS" link on the Badweb home page and enter NOKK as the search criteria. There have been several excellent discussions on this same subject and your question will be answered in detail. For what it's worth, my 98 S3 came with a NOKK and a 200 main jet. I tried the N65C straight, shimmed 0.010", 0.030" & 0.050" but it didn't seem to help get rid of a pinging problem I was having. Finally I tried the NOKK shimmed 0.060". That, a #48 idle jet and a hogged out accel pump chamber solved it for me. No discernable flat spot running stock airbox & muff, K&N filter. Works well at sea level and occasional 8000'+ mountain roads too. Sparky 96S1, 98S3 | ||
| Chuck |
Thanks, guys Lee, I'll try setting my ignition back to stock specifications...I had retarded it slightly to smooth things out at the "bottom end"...but it still runs like a scalded dog at the top. Sparky, Thanks...that makes me feel better about my needle. I've not had a problem with detonation since richening things up. Guess I'll have to wait until my bike's final drive is repaired to make more changes. Belt broke, yesterday......dog doo doo  | ||
| Leeaw |
Chuck, See if you can get the dealer to lend you the race ignition for a test or if someone you know has one, cause it may help. I know my bike, ran awesome from day one, barring that one flat spot that you speak of. | ||
| Yardbird |
I need help fine-tuning my S1W. A dyno run is not possibility that I've researched at this point and not an option unless I find someone to do it near Sacramento. I'm running the stock carb with the #45 idle jet, # 195 main with the dynojet needle set according to instructions. I have the stock header with a SuperTrapp and 15 disks. The bike is running great down low and low-midrange. It seems like it flattens out at high midrange and doesn't pull to redline in fourth and fifth. I think that it gets worse as it heats up, but not sure because I don't like to rev the piss out of it when it's not warmed up. Someone said that if it gets worse when hot, it's too rich - is that the truth? If so, I'd like an opinion on whether to mess with the needle or change main jet sizes. I know that a lot of this is "seat of the pants" kind of stuff that experience teaches most effectively. However, it's a royal pain in the ass to remove the samsonite cleaner and all the bs with taking the carb out to make a small tweek. Another question - why should I buy a Mikuni? Is it easier to change jetting or is it just plain better? Thanks in advance to anyone who has time to help me move in the right direction. JB | ||
| Tripper |
YB: I have a Dynojet kit in my S1 w/ TStorm heads, Buell race header/Muffler. I had same symptons as you describe. Worse when warm does indicate overly rich. My main was/is 190. I dropped the needle 2 positions to make it leaner and so far it is great. It was in slot 4, so I moved it to slot 2, which drops the needle farther into the emulsion tube and results in leaner operation over most of the RPM range. It feels perfect but have not had really hot weather here, I am at 1100 feet altitude. Since you cannot pull redline in 4th, it sounds as if you are VERY rich. With throttle WFO at higher RPM's only the main jet size is in play. Use one of the smaller ones they supplied in the kit (185). Do you have the instruction sheet from Dynojet? My experience is they are usually very close in their recomendations, others will disagree. Your S1 should pull redline, easily. Buy the Buell race header before spending money on a Mikuni. You are missing out on alot of fun. Recomendation-do the CO rally and Aaron will get it PERFECT. That's just the way he is. | ||
| Jmartz |
I was helping a friend tune is S1W fitted with a Yost kit. The bike was running too rich. To my surprise the mid range cannot be tuned at all. Yost needles are cylindical with the slide at rest. Moving it up or down has no effect. Once the slide rises the needle steps down and becomes tapered toward the tip. Weird! There were 2 choices red needle (fat) blue needle (leaner). Turns out it runs pretty good with a 45/2.5 turns, blue needle and 195 main. Jose | ||
| Peter |
OK, I've got a couple of questions. I've been having a bit of a discussion with Grizzly about his injection system versus my carby setup, and would like some info please. Does anybody know what the maximum flow rate of a stock Buell injector is? Does anybody know what the flow rate of a 200 main jet is in a CV at SAT&P at sea level? What is the maximum hp anybody has heard of using the standard Buell injectors? I don't care what management system it had for the moment, just that it didn't have higher flowing injectors fitted. Thanks for any input. PPiA | ||
| Yardbird |
Tripper, thanks for the info. I've got my needle in slot 4 right now, so I think I'll try slot two with a 190, my kit only had a 195 and a 185, I think my dealer has a 190. What do you think the Buell Race Header would do? Thanks again, JB | ||
| Tripper |
What will the Buell Race Header Do? Click Here That chart is of an X1, but who cares? The torque dip around 3500 rpm is taken care of, mostly by the Race Header. | ||
| Blacks1buell |
i have a 96 s1 buell. kt pipe, and force intake. sometimes it sputters(just one quick pop every so often) when im chugging down the road at a steady rpm, say round 2000. am i correct at thinking i need to go with a larger slow idle jet. also it will sputter and or die if i rap the throttle from a idle, sounds like a carb backfire. im kinda new to carb adj. so PLEASE HEEEELP.... ps the buell was my first and only bike(not including the moped i use to have)ill never own another, i love them to much. so thank you eric buell for a great machine. | ||
| Aaron |
Mike: Congrats on the S1! Great bike. Best bet on the carb deal ... pull it off, change the intake manifold seals (they're notorious for going bad), then do the carb mods described on the ATC site. That's a good starting point, work from there. I think you'll find the CV easy to tune and it really works well. Good luck! AW | ||
| Jmartz |
B1b: Run a 45 slow with 2 1/2 turns. If cruising speed pops (out the carb) persist lift needle in .020 increments. I guarantee you it will be corrected. Jose PS Replace the intake gaskets to rule out leaks in that area, test the repair and then proceed with the above recommendations. | ||
| Bushmasta |
Hey Buellers, I ran by 2000 S3 bone dry. i thought i could make it to the next station, no such luck. i was stranded but close to home. I refilled her up, but i wanted to know was their anything i needed to do so that the DDFI doesn't get messed up. She didn't want to start at first, but finally did. She is running a bit rough. That light needs to come on a lot earlier though let me tell you. | ||
| Ralph |
Blacks1buell, YOU RIDE AT 2000 RPM?!?!?!? Stop that. Man, the lowest I go is 2500 and that's only when I'm cruising past the cops in town. bighairyralph and tune your carb too  | ||
| Hans |
Ralph: He must have had a cold and you misunderstood him: I heard clearly: "I ran my 2000 S3 bone dry " :-) | ||
| Tripper |
Have another coffee Hans, your eyes aren't working. | ||
| Hans |
Tripper, just a joke. As English is an foreign language for me and I am accustomed more to written text I always try to imagine how words will sound when spoken, if there seems to be something illogical, or in case of mis spellings, or abbreviations, or plain slang. While an M sounds as an B, spoken by somebody with a cold and nose congestion, the sentence becomes logic if you swap both characters. Of course it is practically inpossible to ride a Buell with 2000 rpm as I also understood at first sight. I have to admit that the contributions from Court gives me the most problems: My interpretations are perhaps way off the truth, but they are always enjoyable. Thanks for the coffee, but my eyesight is perfect I think: Maybe low on batteries for my hearing aid.:-) Hans | ||
| Hans |
BTW, what would be the speed and RPM to get highest mileage? Hans | ||
| Thunderbolt |
Way back when, I replaced the stock jets (40 & 185) on my S2 with a 45 and 195 & an N65C needle. The bike seemed to run well if not a little rich. I then put on ported thunderstorm heads, and the bike, to my surprise, ran even richer than with the stock sporty heads. I figured with the higher flow heads the bike would run leaner, but it was just the opposite. That's when I added an air/fuel gauge (thanks Jerome), and it confirmed that I was running too rich. I first changed the main jet back to a 185 & left the slow jet alone. The gauge still said I was way rich. So, I just went to a 175 & a 40 & shimmed the needle .020". As I figured, the bike was now running a little lean according to the gauge. But, after about 20 minutes of riding, the gauge started saying the jetting was a little on the RICH side. What do you guys think? 175 & 40 seem too small to be running a little rich according to the common setup don't they? Aaron? | ||
| Doncasto |
Hans: Don't start thinking you are the Lone Ranger. Court's contributions keep many of us confused, confounded and conflicted. Don | ||
| Hans |
Don: Thanks. Was just informed that our new broadcasting company "Yorin" is an abbreviation of: You are in. So Imin. Hans. | ||
| Travis |
Hey fellas, no serious thing but... when i start my bike (cold), i pull the choke knob out, twist the throttle one time and turn over the bike. My problem is that the choke knob wants to retract by itself, to about 1/3 choke. is there some spring in the carb that should be doing something or doing too much? Thoughts Trav | ||
| Aaron |
Trav: loosen the metal nut holding the plastic choke housing onto the tab. Now tighten the knurled plastic nut on the other side of the tab about a turn or so. *Gently* snug the metal nut back up. One inch-lb too tight and it'll break the housing, so be gentle. | ||
| Travis |
ok will do, i did have the thing off not long ago, perhaps i reinstalled it incorrectly. Thanks Aaron Trav | ||
| Clark |
Fellow listers: Have followed Bad Weather for quite awhile, and gleaned much info. Now have a carb question. Last night planned to take my 99 M2 out. Pulled choke out all the way, started okay ran up to 2k rpm(normal). Pushed choke to halfway point. Bike started to run and sound like it was running on one cylnder/popping out airfilter. Pushed choke all the way in, bike stalls. Would only start on full choke. Got bike started and tried to make a short run, started running worse and worse. Made it back to house put away for night. Carb/filter mods and removal of Calif. smog equipment done a year ago; with no problems. Until now; will be tearing into bike tomorrow. Just looking for potential problem areas to look into | ||
| Rocketman |
Gable : Fit new plugs. NGK work for me better than anything else I've tried. Rocket in England |
