| Author | Message | ||
     Bomber |
All -- I finished this task on my Y2K MaDeuece yesterday (I think, please read on) -- I used the ATC method (dropping the swingarm block) and everything went pretty much swimingly -- I managed it myself, although an extra pair of hands woulda been handy -- hint, draw the block to the engine cases using the four heck-for-strong bols, THEN intall the isolator bolts, like the procedure sez -- don't work so good the other way! as many of you know, the new-style isolators are very different from the originals -- the new style have large "ears" (for lack of a better term) -- and here's the question -- I'm 99.999% certain that I properly observed the "L" and "R" marking on the isolators, getting them on the right sides of the frame before I convinced the block back into place -- the "ears" are to the front of the scoot -- not having the slightest idea as to the purpose of the "ears", I'm not certain that's where they belong -- at any rate, the isolator bolts are in the lower-rear quadrant of the hole in the frame, as were the originals -- have I got these little dears in right? thanks for the backup, all | ||
| 99x1 |
The "ears" should face forward - and since the isolators are in the frame pins they have to be right. (?) I think the ear supports the swingarm block by hitting on the frame if the rubber lets go? | ||
| Bomber |
Ninerniner -- thanks, sir -- you helped but my mind at rest ;-} tough to do | ||
| Buellmeister57 |
Bomber, Glad your isolator replacement went well,I broke the belt on my 99 M2, (28,000 miles-28,000 wheelies) and am getting ready to replace the belt and isolators. Any words of wisedom on this job? I have a service manual and I printed out the ATC method. Thanks in advance. | ||
| Bomber |
meister -- I'd most defiantley use the ATC method -- tips? 1 -- when you make the tools to compress teh new isolators, make sure the washers are as big as the OD of the isolators . . . . looks like you could gouge the rubber, otherwise 2 -- getting it apart is pretty easy, and a one man job, two, but another set of hands for the assembly would be helpful -- 3 -- as above, use the 4 big old bolts to draw the block to the engine cases, THEN line up the isolator bolts -- the ATC method is well documented -- follow it slavishly, adn you'll be fine lastly, make sure you got something sturdy holding up the engine while it's not supported by the rear isolators - hangin from the head is likely a good way to have trouble down the road -- I jacked the engine up a little from it's as-installed postion, and inserted a cut-to-length two by four ar the rear of the cases -- others have used bottle jacks (mine collapses over night) and tie down straps under the engine and over the frame, (mine stretches a fair amount) -- good suuport is what ya need (as in so many things, yes?) finally, the new (TORX dammit!)ioslator bolts are tough to get alinged and instlled without crossthreading -- take it slow -- I got everything installed, then installed the OLD iso-bolts (allens were easier to manuever) lightly, removed one at a time, and put in the new (again, TORX, AAARRRGGGG) bolts, and that seemed to work fine - - - -- let me know if I've further muddied the water -- at the end of the day, it wasn't any tougher than setting ducati valves and esier than shimming Norton isolators . . . . . | ||
| Buellmeister57 |
Bomber, Thanks for the tips! I have the belt and will be ordering the isolators soon. Will let you know how it goes. Buellmeister Buelling in West Virginia | ||
| Bomber |
meister -- gimme a shout if I can be of any assistance! schedule a full day to be on the safe side (better to finish early than to me all cranky cuzx it took longer than ya thought, yes?) | ||
| Bomber |
couple other tips that floated to the top -- crowsfeet for your torque wrench will make it much much easier to button everything back up right, unless your torque wrench is really tiny apply inward pressure when intalling the isolator bolts -- otherwise, you can spend a loooonnnnnggggg time waiting for the threads to catch -- be be careful, they are pretty fine threads, and are likely easily cross threaded | ||
| Buellmeister57 |
Bomber, Was just about to give you a shout, crowsfoot was the answer I needed to get the top left bolt (viewed from the rear) out. Off to the tool store! Good thing I have another bike to ride, feels like the swingarm bearings need replaced too. (If I ever get the wretched swingarm off!) | ||
| Bomber |
some cheap rathes will fit (I've got a couple that I save for just that purpose), but the crowsfoot will be needed if you actually try to torque the fasteners == sorry I didn't get it right in the first posting, bud -- woulda saved ya some time | ||
| Road_thing |
OK, I give up, what's a rathe? Do I need one? How much should I pay to make sure it's not cheap? rt | ||
| Bomber |
darnit -- ratchet -- I really gotta re take the typing class -- | ||
| Road_thing |
I thought maybe it was a cheap Chinese lathe...  | ||
| Bomber |
well, that would remove the swingarm block fasteners, if it was teeny enuff -- I smeared cheese on em and let the Lab Rats chew em off for me -- took a while, but no skinned knuckles ;-} | ||
| Buellmeister57 |
Bomber, Got my new isolators today, (Dave from WI) no new isolator bolts came with them. They sure look different than the ones in my bike. Any reason I can't reuse my old iso bolts? Got any Lab Rats you want to get rid of? | ||
| Bluzm2 |
The new isolators have a different style bolt. Common wisdom is to NOT reuse the old ones. Also watch the locating pin length. | ||
| Bomber |
what blues sad - if you buy the isos separate, seems bolts don't come with -- if you buy the upgrade kit, ya get the bolts, but alot of other stuff you likely don't need I would not re-use the bolts, though they fit -- they are supporting too much of the driveline, and a failure is not pleasant to contimplate | ||
| Buellmeister57 |
Thanks for all the help guys. Looks like I can get the timken swingarm bearings at my local auto parts, does anyone know the part # for the seals? | ||
| Buellmeister57 |
Swingarm is off and apart. While on the bike with the shock disconnected and after removing the swingarm assembly there was a definite "notch" while moving it thru it's range. The bearings appear to be fine??? O well, I'm replacing them anyway. Interesting note, one side had a "SKF" and the other a "Timken" brand bearing. | ||
| Paint_shaker |
Ok... I am fixing to have to replace the rear isolators on my 98 S1W... I have the service manual... what is the "atc method" and where can I find info on it?? | ||
| Bomber |
Paint -- American Thunderbike Club -- link on the links page -- grerat step by step procedure | ||
| Paint_shaker |
Ok... I am considering replacing the isolators myself... I am mechanically inclined and the ATC directions seem pretty straight forward... But I do have some questions... 1) The allen head bolt on the right isolator is not in the center of the hole in the frame. Is damage other than the isolators possible? 2) Other than a tool to compress the isolator, are there any other special tools required?? 3) I am assuming that the isolator only fits one way?? 4) The belt looks in good shape and I am assuming it is the original (unless there was a recall) with 19,000 miles. Should I replace it? Any thoughts/ advise/ help is appreciated. Also I was considering replacing the front motor mount bolts just in case. However when I checked with the local Buell dealer, they advised the front motor mount had not had the recall done on it so they will take care of that problem... | ||
| Bomber |
Paint -- the iso bolts live in the lower rear quadrant of the hole in the frame, not in the center -- although it's always possible that other damage awaits you, it's not likely -- don't sweat that one -- isos letting go CAN result int eh bolt moving around a bit, but you're replaceing them anyways you'll need crowsfeet wrenches to properly torque the swingarm block to engine case bolts . . . I didn't need anything else unusual isos do only fit one way, but, if you're like me, you can make most anything fit most anywhere if ya try hard enough -- the new isos are marked L and R pretty clearly, and the "ears" face forward when installed (Read above for more) if it was me (98 model year bike) I'd also replace the bearings and the belt -- the bearing cups in my scoot were pretty seriously marked (approx 35K miles), and the new ones we're expensive (btw, same part number for sterring head bearings, and good engineering a joy?) given the PITA status of the job, I'd do the isos, belt and bearing all at the same time, and look forward to another 20K of fun | ||
| Paint_shaker |
Thanks for the advice | ||
| Buellmeister57 |
Paint_shaker, I have a lift that holds the bike up by the footpegs, removed the muffler and used a floor jack to support the rear of the motor. Went to Sears and picked up an 18mm crowsfoot for the top left bolt (viewed from the rear) that holds the carrier to the motor. Got my isolators from Dave at Appleton HD, ordered Timken bearings, races and seals thru my local auto parts. I'm no master mechanic and with help from the board have this job almost done. | ||
| Paint_shaker |
Again, thanx for the help and advice.... I will probably give it a shot... Already ordered the isolators from Dave... Hopefully the local shop will have a belt, if not I'll order that from Dave too...my only concern is if there is damage other than the isolator... | ||
| Bomber |
Paint -- like many Tuber parts, the belt is shared with sporties -- after the service manaul, I'd rank the parts book as the best tool investment for tubers -- ya walk in with the part number, and, POOF, like magik, they go back into the store room and find the sportster part that YOU secretly know is a Buell part (grin) Is there a reason you suspect other damage? | ||
| Paint_shaker |
Bomber, no reason to suspect any other damage. I became concerned when I lost the chrome cover and saw the allen bolt sitting roughly in the middle and to the rear... Still waiting on all the parts to arrive before I begin. Also I ordered the isolators only (not the kit), I am thinking the local automotive or hardware store will have the proper grade bolt that I can replace it with? | ||
| Bomber |
Paint -- the position of the bolts in the hole is likely correct -- as for the bolts, grade and size, I've got a couple of well stocked stores (Hdwr and auto) in the neighborhood, and none had the right bolt -- it MAY be grade 8 (no less, I would imagine), but the threads are a bit out of the ordinary, and finding either an allen head (preferable, IMO) or TORX (yuck, again, in my opinion) in the right size will board on miraculous that said, if you DO find em locally, one more miracle and a card trick, and your up for sainthood ;-} me, I'd order em from HD -- weren't too spendy, and they are kinda important, yes? | ||
| Paint_shaker |
After doing further research, it appears my isolators may be covered under Buell Service Bulletin B-016. I am going to contact my local Buell Dealer and find out if this is true tomm. If so, I'll hang on to the isolators I got from DaveS, but still have the Dealer install the new bearings and belt.  } | ||
| Paint_shaker |
Dayum it.... I can't get a streak of good motorcycle luck right now... According to the dealer and the VIN, the isolators were all ready done under the service bulletin..... 3 bikes and none to ride....  |
