| Author | Message | ||
     Rcellucci |
Just had the tires changed. I removed the wheels myself as I have found that whenever anyone else touches my bikes I end up with problems and I don't want the axles over-torqued. The changer told me that he had tried to remove the sprocket but was not able to remove all of the bolts. When I got home, I reviewed the service manual and it says I cannot re-use the bolts. Has anyone had problems with reusing the sprocket bolts? Does anyone know where to find the appropriate hardware? | ||
| Prior |
Best place to get hardware would be your dealer. If the tech messed up the torx heads on a few of the fasteners, they'll be a real treat to get out to replace... I've had luck using regular socket head capscrews on tuber sprockets, not sure if there's a clearance issue on the XBs or not. Why did he try to remove it in the first place? (Message edited by awprior on December 03, 2012) | ||
| Rcellucci |
He said it would not fit his tire change machine otherwise. He did offer to replace the bolts. He also gave me some grade 8 bolts to use until the others arrived(no one had them in stock. Now I have more problems. I always lightly lube bolts before I torque (As is required in many engine manuals} When I tried to torque these bolts at lease 3 of them started stripping and one is completely stripped. Is there some special process? There is nothing in the buell manual. Now what? | ||
| Rcellucci |
I just checked the bolts I was given and realized they are about 1/8" shorter than stock. Also the washers were thicker than stock. I guess it is possible fewer threads engaged exacerbated the problem. | ||
| Rcellucci |
OK. Finally finished. Had to helicoil one hole. Picked up 1+ 1/4 " grade 8 bolts. Original was 1+1/8 mechanic gave me i". I tightened to 30 ftlb and used loctite 271. I don't think they will be coming loose any time soon. As an aside, I have owned many bikes and I think the ulysses is easily the most difficult for a rear wheel change. | ||
| Reepicheep |
I'd say my XB platform wheels are the easiest to change. The spacers are all captive, two bolts for the caliper, one pinch bolt, and out it comes. No chain tension adjusters or other fussing about. Whenever I change a wheel on my other bikes and end up with a pile of washers and adjusters laying on the ground I think "oh yeah, those again". I've changed many a rear tire on an XB without ever removing the pulley. A 180 series rim with a pulley does get wide, you just get the right equipment to handle it (in my case a harbor freight changing stand, three tire irons, and a static balancer setup). Sounds like this was one of those "don't have the right tool for the job so improvise" kinds of jobs. Sometimes those turn out fine, other times it leads to a lot of time and frustration, other times it's the start of a death spiral. | ||
| Prior |
Now I have more problems. I always lightly lube bolts before I torque (As is required in many engine manuals When I tried to torque these bolts at lease 3 of them started stripping and one is completely stripped. Lubricated head bolts are typically torque to yield (actually stretch the bolts a bit)- they are designed for that. Lubricating a regular fastener, especially when it's a steel fastener going into aluminum is a no-no- it throws your torque values way off. You likely tightened that bolt double what you intended. The XBs are a bit different to pull the rear wheel off, but once you've got it down, it's easy. WAY easier than messing with adjusters etc. (Message edited by awprior on December 10, 2012) | ||
| Rcellucci |
I agree that the lack of adustments is a plus, however, having to take off the belt guards, rear fender, peg/brake holder, left rear brake cylinder, rear swing arm brace, plus all of the loctiting of some and different torque requirements ends up taking a lot of time. I think there are over 25 different screws and bolts that end up being removed. I also decided to replace the belt and keep the old one as a spare. That required removing the Jardine bracket for the lower front fairings because it interfered with the belt removal. (For the last time. A few minutes with the grinder solved that problem. Unfortunately, I think it will also interfere with the oil filter change, but I will cross that bridge when I come to it. Maybe there is a better way, but I was following the service manual. | ||
| Froggy |
You did WAY too much work. My process is remove rear pinch bolt, lift bike on rear stand, remove brake caliper bolts, remove axle, push belt aside and the wheel is off. Reverse to install, the only one you need to worry about torquing right is the axle to prevent bearing damage, the rest are fine with good and snug. The service manual has the proper procedure, not always the best procedure. The guards and swingarm brace only have to come off if you are changing the belt, and even that you can cheat a bit and only loosen some of them. | ||
| Rcellucci |
I think you are better at this than me. I initially tried to get the belt off of the pulley without removing the swingarm brace, but was unable to do it. Next time, hopefully a long time from now, I will try harder. | ||
| Reepicheep |
Use a step drill to give yourself just a shade more margin on the bolt holes on the belt tensior assembly next time you have it off. That makes it easier. |
