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Bsulysses
| | Posted on Friday, October 26, 2012 - 08:05 pm: | 
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Bear with the novel, i think some of this may help you guys. I have an '07 Uly with 16k on it. fine when i bought it. was told just the fan needed a fuse(but the fan ended up not working at all bc of the oil from the rocker grommet) took the exhaust actuator off and interactive exhaust cable to put a new buell race issue pipe on. had my cousin map it to his firebolt settings with his ecmspy. have the wiring switched for lights mod so both come on. I have a lot the above posted mysterious issues with my bike and i have been stressed out getting nowhere with dealers/servicers and the only thing that helps is knowing we're all having this same problem/problems and it seems whatever we do its either patched for the 12mi, next week or month or not at all. I've never been more paranoid about a bike or dying on one, i haven't rode hardly since i got it and like *Padaboy said afraid if you take off and go somewhere you'll get stranded. i have been cruising along on US-30, I-75, and 480/270 cleveland and had the bike stahl leaving me to use my experience and avoid the cars and tractor trailers bearing down on me after i would pass them bike would die. i have never been as close to death as many times with a bike than only this one. never owned a bike/brand that i am highly ecstatic for and hate so many things about them at the same time.
Back in August i took it to Gover HD in Piqua Ohio. It was basically an experiment for them. after 2 1/2 weeks of trying to figure out why the bike was overheating, stahling, chuggin/sputtering while cruising after 12mi at about 55-60mph(as if i was cruising and kept pulling in the clutch really fast every couple of seconds) i finally got them to listen to me, thinking the whole time it was the ecm bc of the seat giving away over time and cracking the connection points. they said things were so intermittent that they might have it a month before they could pinpoint it. so after all this time and labor and almost a 6-700$ bill (got them down to $173.34 bc they knew they screwed up and admitted that the whole time it was a bad ecm) i knew they just wanted it patched and outta site! they basically told me they didnt want it back in a cheesy grin kind of way. i ride the bike home, no overheating, the fan is running right while riding and after shut off, no more backfire tach sweeping shut of/stahlling, and i could cruise in first gear at a real slow idle down the road no choppy chugging along anymore or hit the gas and it pops air almost dying. not even 250mi later im slowly starting to get back to the same point i was at when i brought it in to get fixed. cant idle anymore its really choppy when you walk the bike at 1 mph, the fan starting to slowly perform its functions now doesnt work at all even tried a direct connect test to the battery. i did the jumper pull code method and got Trouble code 21-Interactive exhaust, 36-fan voltage, 44 BAS bank angle sensor. Gover HD told me the only code that was leaving the CEL on when i got it back from them was the code 21 and said they couldnt just shut it off, and im pulling other codes now since i got it back. their tech ruined my actuator told me to plug it back into the bike so the code would shut off, it did but then the plastic gears in it got messed up because there was no cable to keep it from spinning/snapping toooo far back and forth each way. so never hook up an exhaust actuator without the cable and a valve on the pipe to connect to, jump it or something to make the ecm think its plugged in or use ecm spy to shut it off. I am now left with either miraculously figuring this bike situation out on my own or taking it to Western Reserve HD in Mentor, Cleve OH. or DucRX in S Cleve Region and im still afraid to spend more money on them to figure nothing out but that i need another new fan and another new ECM. I found out that my rear rocker grommet was leaking, spewing oil on frame, rear cylinder fan and the wiring and harness that is tucked between the sub-frame and fan. i feel like i've explained a lot but still don't feel like the problem(s) been explained enough like theres more to it still im missing. i feel like i ride a ticking time bomb |
Two_seasons
| | Posted on Saturday, October 27, 2012 - 06:32 pm: |
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If you don't have a service manual, get one. Very handy for troubleshooting. Al at American Sport Bike sells them. Excellent resource for all things Buell.
If make sure EVERY ground on the bike is tightened properly, then I'd check the ECM and make sure the connectors are seated ALL THE WAY IN AND LOCKED.
A service manual will aid you with all the above. |
Bsulysses
| | Posted on Saturday, October 27, 2012 - 07:58 pm: |
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***turning bike to the right shuts off then back on when turned back left. |
Rays
| | Posted on Saturday, October 27, 2012 - 10:04 pm: |
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That is a mouthful.
Firstly, if you have had oil leaking into the fan and it doesn't run when connected to 12 volts then it is toast.
You need to replace the leaking rear rocker grommet first of course.
The fan is supplied with +12 volts and the ECM provides the ground (that is how it can have two speeds). You can test the fan and its associated power supply / wiring by removing the ECM connector and grounding the Fan control pin on the plug (Pin 6 Grey Connector - Black/Orange wire) - the fan should run full speed.
In your other post you mention that the lights go out when the bars are turned to the right and come back on when turned to the left. The first thing I would check is all of the four ground wires mounted to the lower front steering head grounding point.
The four grounds are:
1. Headlight common ground.
2. Blinker relay ground.
3. Horn ground.
4. Front aux power outlet ground.
These wires gets flexed quite a lot and quite common for a wire to break internally and leave the insulation intact so it isn't obvious by just looking. If you pull the head light assembly off (I do that with the 'beak' left on so it doesn't screw up the headlight adjustment) to get a clear look at the grounds tug lightly on each wire - if you have a broken one it will stretch slightly because of the give in the insulation without the wire holding firm.
It is a common misconception that these grounds will cause all sorts of things but in your situation the only related issue is probably the headlight gremlin.
BTW - I don't think that leaving the valve disconnected has screwed up the valve actuator, these have failed quite a bit and I think you are just SOL on this one. My '06 muffler has a stuffed valve in the muffler so I have it wired partially open and the actuator (plastic gear model) has been operating unloaded for about 15,000 miles.
Have you cleaned the ground connections between the main frame and subframe? This is where the subframe bolts to the mainframe outboard of the upper shock mount. I would definitely do that as well as remove the battery tray and clean/tighten the grounding points there.
This would be a 'must do' when trying to eliminate elusive running issues.
You haven't mentioned battery - I assume it would have been double-checked charge and for terminal cleanliness and tightness but if not that is also mandatory.
In the post above you say it cuts out with bar movement - if that isn't related to what you said about the lights in the other thread and you are referring to the engine then I would be looking at the wiring from the kill switch where it routes through the steering head loom guide.
There was a recall on the BAS switch where it was relocated into the tail on the '06's - not sure when that cutover into production. Is your BAS under the ECM or behind the seat latch?
(Message edited by Rays on October 27, 2012)
(Message edited by rays on October 27, 2012) |
Bsulysses
| | Posted on Sunday, October 28, 2012 - 12:21 am: |
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***this post must not have went through***Have the service manual. are all the grounds and relays tied into the wiring harness? my ECM is brand new and relocated im wondering if it is all the oil from the rear rocker grommet spewing all over the harness and fan area causing shorting and possibly melting wires. *Repicheap* was saying the bundle of wires that run along the left side neck of frame could be causing problems my lighting turns off if the bike turns too far to the left and back on when keeping it to the right. |
Bsulysses
| | Posted on Sunday, October 28, 2012 - 02:40 am: |
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thanks Rays..the PO had the BAS recall n relocate done, fitted behind seat latch/tail light area. i had the airbox cover off and went down the road and watched the actuator twist back and forth and must have been doing that ever since i plugged it back in w/o cable n stock exhaust, i have the old version with the plastic gears that heat up and loose shape and or just crack you know how the new ones have metal gears. i know the oil has fried the fan, and could be causing the shorting out of wires in that area and harness but the bike doesn't run good like when i got it back from dealer and now its getting worse like something is trying to fry my ecm |
Reepicheep
| | Posted on Sunday, October 28, 2012 - 11:35 am: |
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quote:turning bike to the right shuts off then back on when turned back left.
It's that ground, or the wire bundle around the steering neck. The copper on the inside of the wire will break but not the insulation, you have to take it apart and "feel" for the break. |
Murf2
| | Posted on Sunday, October 28, 2012 - 02:36 pm: |
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Open up the harness where the plastic protector is by the neck. I had a wire (brown) if I remember right. It was broken inside the insulation. You'll be able to tell by pulling on the wires. I fixed that wire and no more funny business when I turned the bars. Don't put he plastic wire protector back on. |
Scout1627
| | Posted on Tuesday, April 29, 2014 - 04:19 pm: |
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I have a chronic problem with my '06 Ulysses. The relays and fuse block get too hot to touch which causes an intermittent and the bike just goes dead. I've always been able to get it going again by popping the seat off and wiggling the fuses and relays but, like I said, they are hotter than hell. I've tried bending the pins to give a tighter fit but that doesn't work all the time. I'm thinking the issue is the heat generated and maybe a bad ground? I'm thinking about taking to the shop (I do my own maintenance) but there have been so many stories about their incompetence I don't have much confidence in H-D wrenches in general. |
Reepicheep
| | Posted on Wednesday, April 30, 2014 - 07:36 am: |
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Did you replace the relays? Could be a relay actuation coil that is shorted out. That could get hot. |
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