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Buell Forum » Knowledge Vault (tech, parts, apparel, & accessories topics) » Engine » Big Mechanicals: Head, Cyl, Piston, Rod, Crank, Flywheel, Cases, Bearings » Archive through October 22, 2006 » How to remove Cylinder Studs? « Previous Next »

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Bluelightning
Posted on Thursday, August 12, 2004 - 08:39 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Anyone know the quickest and easiest way to remove cylinder studs? I tried the 2 locknut thing (basically same as the removal tool) and even tried to heat the case some with my torch, but no go. This is the only think holding me up from putting my engine back together.

Thanks!!
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Slaughter
Posted on Thursday, August 12, 2004 - 09:56 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Do you want to keep them? (I guess you can see what that question implies) Once you are willing to replace them, removal is pretty easy.

Last head job on the XB (turning it into a race motor) - I just bought a set of studs before I had the motor apart just in case... turned out didn't need them

You're wrenching on the bottom locknut right? Don't know if that's just superstition but seems to work mo betta.

Disclaimer:I'm NOT a mechanic. On those rare occasions when I have money, I'd rather pay a "real" mechanic to do it - that way I have somebody to yell at when things go wrong. That being said, I've had bad luck with a couple local mechanics and better luck with the dealers! (go figure) so I'm doing more of my own wrenching
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Bluelightning
Posted on Thursday, August 12, 2004 - 10:43 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Yep wrenching on the bottom nut. All it seems to to is turn the top nut. I have them to tight against each other that the stud starts to twist!! I am replacing the studs as I had 1 get damaged when the rear head bolt came loose. I could just re-thread the bad stud, but for safety and longevity, I think it would be better to just replace them all to keep everything fresh. The stock studs were fairly cheap from Harley (go figure anything being cheap from Harley!) I have tried heating the case as I know that these things are installed with red locktite and can be a bear to get out. Next thing I can think of is try to grab with vise grips and just hope for the best.
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Rick_a
Posted on Thursday, August 12, 2004 - 01:23 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

What I've done is use the two nut thing...but the two nuts have to be tightened tighter than the torque required to get the stud out to begin with. A high grade nut is pretty much required. I also use a socket to tighten the top nut and to turn both nuts at the same time.
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