G oog le BadWeB | Login/out | Topics | Search | Custodians | Register | Edit Profile

Buell Forum » Knowledge Vault (tech, parts, apparel, & accessories topics) » Drivetrain » Clutch: Cable, Adjustment, Basket, Hub, Spring, Plates... » Going to neutral between 2nd and 3rd « Previous Next »

Author Message
Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message

Uwmad
Posted on Tuesday, May 29, 2012 - 10:42 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Just bought the bike ('96 S1 w/ 12,xxx miles). When just cruising and shifting under normal rpm's, it's fine. When I get on it at a stop...it goes into 2nd just fine but then under higher rpm's...it won't go into 3rd? It goes to neutral and then I can't get it back into 3rd until I down shift into 2nd first and then I can get it into 3rd. I tried adjusting the cable and did a quick look at the Primary but looked ok for the most part. Is this going to be a major issue?
Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message

Reepicheep
Posted on Tuesday, May 29, 2012 - 10:45 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Be thankful you have a cartridge transmission. That being said, it might just be the pins on the end of the shift drum, which you can get at without pulling the tranny.
Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message

Uwmad
Posted on Wednesday, May 30, 2012 - 10:51 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

I'm fairly good with pulling things apart and fixing them...but this whole tranny clutch stuff scares me! How do I check the "pins"?
Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message

Reepicheep
Posted on Wednesday, May 30, 2012 - 01:46 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Take the primary cover, then take off the (really big) nuts on the stator bell and clutch assembly, and remove the clutch, stator bell, and primary chain as a unit.

You will need a locking plate (easy to make from scrap aluminum) and sockets that are the right size.

Torque matters, so you should probably have a service manual as well. I think the 96 manual is online and free.

Once you get that off, you will see the shifter pawl assembly, which hooks on to pins on the end of a "shift drum" (which is really more of a really long shift shaft that the shifting forks ride along on inside groved tracks). Those pins can back out or bend, or the detente plate bolted to that shaft can work loose.

Make sure you have an upgraded primary chain tensioner while you are in there... lots of pictures to show you the difference posted here.
Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message

Uwmad
Posted on Wednesday, May 30, 2012 - 09:10 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Thanks Reep...much appreciated!
« Previous Next »

Add Your Message Here
Post:
Bold text Italics Underline Create a hyperlink Insert a clipart image

Username: Posting Information:
This is a private posting area. Only registered users and custodians may post messages here.
Password:
Options: Post as "Anonymous" (Valid reason required. Abusers will be exposed. If unsure, ask.)
Enable HTML code in message
Automatically activate URLs in message
Action:

Topics | Last Day | Tree View | Search | User List | Help/Instructions | Rules | Program Credits Administration