| Author | Message | ||
     Yellcyclone777 |
Hey Everyone, I just bought a 2000 M2 cyclone off of a friend, It has 17,000 miles on it and its my first bike and I am having a blast!! The bike is really clean but there are a few things that I am having problems with and unfortunately the budget is tight so I would like to fix the problems on my own and could really use some advice since I am new to the Motorcycle seen. Problem one; The bike sat for about a year didnt get started very often and now has oil leaks The first one is in front of the motor and looks like it is coming out of the motor mount bolt above the oil cooler right where it attaches to the frame. The second problem is another oil leak on the oil reserve tank on top where the two bolts go through the top. how do you tighten those? is there a access to nut inside the tank or are they just threaded into the tank? I filled it up with oil then realized I should have looked first. The third problem is the bike vibrates like you wouldn't believe which isnt a bad thing but I think I tightend every bolt and fastener on the bike because they were all loose. but the problem is the tachometer is very glitchy and seems to jump around a lot and doesnt read accurately. Is it from the vibrations or what should I check first to try to solve the problem?? The last problem I am having is it seems like the front brake pads are engaging when I'm moving the bike into the garage when its off and yes my hand is off of the brake lever lol. I am so excited that I finally bought a bike Ive always loved Buell's and cant believe the power this thing has it really is the best thing I ever did but am a little overwhelmed with the oil leaks. The one is bad enough that my pants have oil splattered on them and it the reservoir was empty when I bought it.. so Im thinking I should fix it relatively fast Thank you so much in advance for your advice I really appreciate it | ||
| Littlebuggles |
Welcome. Oil tank was probably empty due to a leaky check valve. This is absolutely normal and why the oil check procedure is to always warm the bike thoroughly before checking the oil. Best to do it after a ride when the bike is up to operating temp. Otherwise, while the bike is sitting oil drains from the tank into the crankcase and gives you an inaccurate reading on your dip stick. The two bolts at the front of the oil res should not be leaking unless someone threaded very long bolts into there. There should just be rubber well-nuts that fit into mounting holes in the top there, they do not pass through into the tank. You may have some oil puddled up there, especially if you've overfilled the oil tank. Don't worry about that over filling, it's pretty much a right of passage. You can correct it easily with a big baster from the dollar store, just siphon a little of the extra off if it's much past the mid point on the dip-stick. The brake is dragging. You can get a rebuild kit from Al at Asb for not too much money. It's pretty easy and can be done with basic tools. The little pistons get crud built up on them and wear or hang-up, causing your drag, the kit comes with new O-rings and pistons. If your bike has an oil cooler it isn't stock. Post some pics so we can compliment you more on your new bike and advise you better on that leak, it is pretty likely to be from an old paper type rocker box gasket that needs to be replaced. If you are doing one you should do both. Have you got a service manual and parts book yet? The parts book is a great tool as the exploded views can really help get your head around a project. You can use the S1 manual here in the K.V. for basic engine mechanicals, tranny is the same too. I'll post the link here shortly if you need it. Great bikes, pretty easy to service yourself with a desire to learn and only a pinch of mechanical aptitude. Hopefully you've been browsing the forum and reading up on some of the various typical mods and fixes for these bikes. If not, spend some more time browsing here in the knowledge vault for more info. (Message edited by littlebuggles on April 02, 2012) | ||
| Littlebuggles |
Ahh, yellow ones are a bit slower, so definitely a better choice for your first bike  | ||
| Reepicheep |
I miss my 2000 M2. Also (adding to your list), look at the front exhaust hanger. Does it look like a beefy upside down "Y" shaped brace? If so, yay! If not, you probably want to upgrade to the newer part. The original paper rocker box gaskets will fail, as will the original paper primary cover gasket. When you replace them with the new (pricy) metal gaskets, your leaking problems will be solved. Stock, the 2000 M2 primary tensioner was also too thin. So when you are in the primary for some other reason, look and see if it is the new style or the old style (pictures in the knowledge vault, the new style has a backplate twice as thick). More good news, the 2000 M2 didn't have a tach. So somebody added that as well, another bonus for you. It's hard to get reliable connections on a motorcycle, so you probably just have to trace back to where they grafted it in and clean and repair the connection. The speedo sensor can go, a $60 part. Some bikes eat them, some don't. You can protect yours with $10 worth of parts. So you can do extra work you might not have to do and spend $10 to save $60, or you can just wait and see if it fails (many don't). Hmmm... what other bonding moments did I have with the M2... Oh, make sure your belt is adjusted scary loose. Sit on the bike on its side stand, reach down, and make sure you can flex the belt to just touch the swingarm. As a general rule, follow the service manual to the letter, but not in this case. (And not if you ever re-tighten the stator bell nut). Use the new Harley Formula+ in the primary, it will shift better, and make sure the primary chain is appropriately tensioned (as per the manual). The Stock boomarang shifter works fine, but the newer (2002 and up?) shifters work a bit better. If you can find some banke pieces on ebay, they make nice bike jewelry. Keep an eye on your exhaust mounting brackets, and if you ever have the header off do NOT over torque the header nuts. When you do, and they shear, don't panic, we have been there, done that, and we can help you.  If it hasn't been rejetted, a different slow jet will make it run much better. Don't go drilling holes in slides or adding $100 kits, just buy the right $6 slow jet. Though given the other attention your bike has clearly gotten, you may already have it. I'm not a "loud pipes" fan, but a supertrapp IDS is a really nice pipe on an M2. Not too loud, nice sound, runs better. When you do the next oil change, drop the oil pump and look up at the oil pump pinion gear with a flashlight or digital camera (look at my profile picture). Some bikes wear them, some don't. But if yours does have an appetite for them, you need the new Buell race part for the XB's in there, or it could cost you a motor. Bump the motor over to check it in a few positions, when they wear the wear one side first. Don't panic at all the suggestions you get here. All these jobs are straightforward and enjoyable. Even the rocker box replacement is a nice bonding experience with the bike, I really enjoyed seeing how the very clever valvetrain design goes together. It's still one of the nicest 4 stroke streetbike valvetrain systems I have worked on (and I've worked on a bunch now). Sigh. I won't give up my Uly, but I want my M2 back beside it in the garage. | ||
| Littlebuggles |
Ahh, I forgot about the tach question. I've never had a problem with mine except the plug working itself loose at some point. There was a lack of voltage regulation to the early tachs or speed sensors or something of the sort, is right Reep? I'd suggest before doing too much with the tach pop the sensor out of the tranny (black plug with a couple wires on the drive side just a bit forward of the front pulley) and wipe it off. They are magnetic and can pick up enough junk to cause them to read intermittently. If that's all it needs you are set. My bike had the proper primary tensioner from the start and didn't need it upgraded. Being a CA only bike may have been the difference but I've never heard anything definitive on that... but if your going to venture in there you should check and/or replace the starter gasket. Mine has been leaking for oh, maybe nine or ten years now. When they go bad they seep oil out and you'll know it by the film of oil on the top of the primary, around/below the starter. One of these days I'll get to that. Have we given you enough yet or do you want more? The proper gaskets are at your local dealership. Just don't let them try and tell you they are obsolete. They're exactly the same as the sportster gaskets for those applications. PM's go to your personal e-mail that you register your account to here. Shoot me one and I'll send my # if you need quicker responses than you get here. | ||
| Bluzm2 |
Re the tach, when you install one on a 2000 M2, the wires fit into the stock connector. There is no splicing involved. I suspect the PO may not have got the connectors seated in the connector block. One of the tach leads may be loose. Buggles, the sensor you refer to is the speedo pickup. The tach comes off the ECU if memory serves. Still not a bad idea to pull the speedo sensor and clean it off. What Reep and Buggles said above is very accurate. We've all been there with all the tuber warts. Don't be afraid to ask questions, it's far better than really messing something up. Brad | ||
| Reepicheep |
Cool! The M2's had a tach lead in the harness. Nice. It was an update I always wanted to make to my M2, but never got around too. Not really necessary on an M2 anyway, it's not that kind of bike. Yes, the speedo sensor gets eaten by odd voltage transients on some tuber. I think the updated part changes the power feed to it so that it comes from a regulated feed to the ECM. When I fixed mine, I just added a $3 voltage regulator to the sensore after the connector (leaving the bike stock). Tons of notes in the knowledge vault. And a fun memory, it's when I went from a "consumer" to a "contributing member" of badweb. It just kept getting better from there. You guys totally have me jonsing for a tuber project bike now. I was thinking on the way home yesterday about a thumper conversion for an old XB9S. Convert it to one cylinder, but leave the fuel injection. It would make a great little economical commuter. I wonder how hard that would be to do... probably have to split the cases and put in a blast crank (or take out half the XB9 crank). | ||
| Yellcyclone777 |
Hey sorry it took me a while to get back on here, works been crazy. Ok so the rocket gaskets are paper and need to be replaced, good call on that after inspecting it closer that's exactly where the leak is coming from.. I would lie to have that link to the parts manual if anyone has it so I can determine if it's something I can do by myself.. So I have some bad news, the bike did leave me stranded at work the other day and I had to have it towed, pretty dissapointed but on the bright side I figured out the problem and was able to fix it myself. The bike wouldn't stay running it was misfiring and running like crap and then it would just cut out. I changed the fowler and poorly gapped plugs drained the tank and started right up and then it died again.. I started looking at the electrical components and realized one of the wires that snap on to the power commander was very loose, I re-crimped it snapped it back on and the bike runs like a top, it even fixe the tachometer it was arching and causing mad caos ; ) I was able to ride it to work today and I had a blast on the way in! As far as the exhaust it is after market Vance and Hines and does have the heavier upside down y bracket. What else.... oh ya I will post some pictures when I get to my regular PC. Can someone tell me where to find an actual owners manual and a service manual?? BtW I just wanted to say thank you for all of your speedy responses it has kind of restored some of my faith in humanity. ; ) So thank you, and I will write more later when I get to my computer | ||
| Yellcyclone777 |
sorry for all the misspelled words like Rocket gaskets (Rocker) gaskets I'm really not an idiot I'm trying to post from my iPhone lol | ||
| Bluzm2 |
There's a power commander on it? Are you sure? That makes no sense on a M2 carbed bike. Can you take a picture of the bad connector and such? There's service manuals on Ebay all the time. The S1 PDF version here in the KV will also work for rocker box gasket replacement. | ||
| Littlebuggles |
Power commander made an ignition advance unit for the Sportster/Buells. I don't recall if it adjusted the red-line higher or not. Josh, you will meet some of the nicest, most helpful people on an old school Buell. Especially here on the badweb. Here's a thread in the Old School section with links for XB rocker cover conversion: http://www.badweatherbikers.com/buell/messages/476 23/675223.html?1334024186 | ||
| Littlebuggles |
Service manual, sorry it's not a direct link but it leads to a pdf and my new computer is giving me fits when dealing with acrobat for some reason. Scroll down to almost the bottom, in the 2007 posts there's a thread link titled: Service Manual - Buell S1 Lightning Service Manual http://www.badweatherbikers.com/buell/messages/384 2/3607.html?1333827529 |
