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Buell Forum » Knowledge Vault (tech, parts, apparel, & accessories topics) » Troubleshooting (Poor Starting/Running/Handling/Ride Issues) » Archive through May 13, 2012 » Crazy X1: help!! » Archive through March 07, 2012 « Previous Next »

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Mstrfrz
Posted on Friday, February 17, 2012 - 03:43 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

So far so good. Will do some ridin before the rain and check AFV. Anybody got a part# on the fuel rail?
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Mstrfrz
Posted on Monday, February 20, 2012 - 07:06 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)



Seems pretty good, though it kinda goes flat if I really lay into the throttle. AFV went to 81 after 30 minutes of riding. Chief complaint right now is that the idle dips a bit low before coming back up after goosing it or riding at faster rpm.
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Mstrfrz
Posted on Tuesday, February 21, 2012 - 09:44 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

The low AFV makes for a tough warmup. It stalls quite a bit before it's warm enough to idle. Even then, it's pretty rough. Once warmed up, idle kinda surges: smooth for about 3 seconds, a small cough or hiccup, rough and low about a second, then back smooth.

At speed, it runs pretty well, but roll-on power is weak. The flat spot in the throttle is more pronounced. Response is good, but the power I'm used to just isn't there. Perhaps I've been spoiled by the Race ECM?

It also pops a lot more at idle and on decel than it used to. Last time it did that, there was a pretty bad exhaust leak at the head. I'll be checking that soon. Fuel pressure holds a lot longer now with new seals and regulator. Engine braking is WAY stronger with 'fuel cutoff on decel' checked, FYI.

Thanks all for so much help thus far. The wife rolled her car last week, so now I have to depend on the Buell until we can replace it. Your help has made that possible. Thanks again.
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Mstrfrz
Posted on Wednesday, February 22, 2012 - 11:10 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

After riding to and from work a couple of days, AFV is at 77. I reset it to 100 and disconnected the O2 sensor. If that works... Faulty O2?
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Mstrfrz
Posted on Thursday, February 23, 2012 - 08:15 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Just arrived at work. With the AFV back at 100 and the O2 disconnected, it rides like it should. 6.2 mile ride, and no engine light indicating the O2 is disconnected. We'll see after the ride home. I'll switch back to the Race ECM, reset the AFV, and reconnect the O2 this weekend. Thoughts?
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Mstrfrz
Posted on Thursday, February 23, 2012 - 08:09 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Still no code for the O2 being disconnected. Not hot enough?

I seem to have lost you all!
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Terrys1980
Posted on Friday, February 24, 2012 - 09:35 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Not sure why the code hasn't shown up yet. I am having a similar issue.

I can reset the afv to 100% and ride it a couple times then it will not want to idle at start up and hesitate a bit. My afv is dropping down to around 81.
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Mstrfrz
Posted on Friday, February 24, 2012 - 11:12 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

From all that I've done, there's only a thing or two left to do. Here's my thinking: a rich condition relayed to the ecm via the o2 is causing a drop in afv. Since I only have 1 02 sensor, that would mean whatever rich condition exists at least on the rear cylinder. New injector seals and a strong fuel pressure indicate at least 1 bad injector. However, no code from a disconnected o2 may mean bad ecm. Since the ecm is easier to swap, I'll do that before swapping injectors.

If it is a bad injector/s, my gues is wear and tear, because I have 2 fuel filters and always use good gas.

Because you are having similar problems, perhaps you should look in the places I haven't. Start by comparing your plugs to see if one has evidence of being richer than the other. Then move onto your o2 sensor.
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Terrys1980
Posted on Friday, February 24, 2012 - 12:57 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

I will be replacing plugs soon anyhow. I started having issues after my last tuning session. I am thinking I didn't lock the afv when tuning and my maps are just too rich.
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Mstrfrz
Posted on Friday, February 24, 2012 - 02:12 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

What's the difference between locking the afv and disconnecting the O2 so it won't change?

(Message edited by Mstrfrz on February 24, 2012)
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Terrys1980
Posted on Friday, February 24, 2012 - 04:19 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

You can accomplish the same thing by doing either.

To lock the afv you would go to the other maps page and set the min and max at 100.

You need the O2 functioning to log to do tuning that's why the afv is locked.
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Mstrfrz
Posted on Friday, February 24, 2012 - 05:13 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Well, then maybe we have very different problems. Regardless of what I do, the AFV goes down, except now that the O2 is unplugged. However, I don't think I'm riding it enough (to or from work) to get it into closed loop operation, therefore throwing the O2 code.
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Mstrfrz
Posted on Monday, February 27, 2012 - 09:11 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Took the latop to work this morning. DEFINITELY not getting very warm on the ride one way. Unchecked closed loop idle and open loop learning. Will try and get in a longer ride to heat it up nicely for a tps reset and idle adjust. Maybe it will throw an o2 code with a longer ride. Will pull plugs soon to seenif it really is running rich with afv of 100.
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Mstrfrz
Posted on Monday, February 27, 2012 - 03:54 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Anybody got a parts list .pdf?
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Mstrfrz
Posted on Monday, February 27, 2012 - 11:08 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

For whatever reason, it's now running mostly on the rear cylinder. I was hoping the front was fouled, indicating a bad injector and finally giving me a definitive answer. Unfortunately, that's not the case: spark is pretty intermittent. My gues is the cmp wiring (which is new).

Rear plug:




(Message edited by mstrfrz on February 28, 2012)
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Mstrfrz
Posted on Tuesday, February 28, 2012 - 09:11 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Front plug:
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Mstrfrz
Posted on Wednesday, February 29, 2012 - 09:51 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

OK, so the front Injector has quite simply quit. My guess is the rear is not far behind. What's the specific part # for these and the fuel Rail, while I'm at it?
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Terrys1980
Posted on Wednesday, February 29, 2012 - 10:09 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

I found this # for the injectors, p0786.02a8.

I also read that you can send them to RC Engineering in SoCal and have them cleaned/balanced/flow tested for $24 a piece.

You can also try contacting JT&S Performance about injectors.
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Terrys1980
Posted on Wednesday, February 29, 2012 - 10:11 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

The tube frame bikes use the same injectors as the 2003 XB's.
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Mstrfrz
Posted on Thursday, March 01, 2012 - 08:12 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Would servicing the injectors be a good idea? They are 12 years old; could be beyond repair, then I'd end up paying for new ones anyway.

HOPEFULLY this has been my problem all along...
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Terrys1980
Posted on Thursday, March 01, 2012 - 08:19 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

I would probably go ahead and change them. The new ones are around $53.
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Mstrfrz
Posted on Saturday, March 03, 2012 - 12:38 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Well, I did an injector swap to confirm and now it's "fixed." This damned bike is kicking my a$$!
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Terrys1980
Posted on Saturday, March 03, 2012 - 01:07 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

I hope so. You've been at it long enough.
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Mstrfrz
Posted on Monday, March 05, 2012 - 12:57 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Well, bad injector Fo' Sho': rear cylinder dead after injector swap. Ran well for a while after the swap, then crap this morning. RC sez they could service but not improve this style of injector. Think I'll go new.
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Firemanjim
Posted on Monday, March 05, 2012 - 01:25 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

With an AFV of 77 you are running super rich in the learned fuel area--not indicative of an injector reforming poorly-- and the ecm is pulling 23% fuel and that is a ton.Did not read through this to see what exhaust you have and if you had already replaced the engine temp sensor as when these start to go you get that sort of rich condition.
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Mstrfrz
Posted on Monday, March 05, 2012 - 01:58 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

The ETS is new.
The ECM is pulling so much fuel as to make the bike run lean. The bad injector was in the rear, where the O2 sensor is. RIGHT NOW, I'm guessing the bad injector was failing, pumping too much fuel. This caused the O2 sensor to tell the ECM to lean out. The injectors and pump are the only parts left of the fuel system that are not new.
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Mstrfrz
Posted on Tuesday, March 06, 2012 - 06:32 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

new injectors on order...
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Two_seasons
Posted on Wednesday, March 07, 2012 - 11:21 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

You may find that, because of the lean condition of the rear cylinder, that your ETS will need to be replaced again. Overheating destroys an ETS.

If it were me, I would have tried new o-rings and some injection cleaner before buying new injectors.
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Mstrfrz
Posted on Wednesday, March 07, 2012 - 01:31 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

New o-rings 2 weeks ago. 2 fuel filters and regular fuel treatments should rule out bad gas or contaminants.

How hot is hot enough to hurt the ets? I don't think it ever got lean enough or hot enough to do damage. Shouldn't the ets cut fuel if the engine gets too hot?
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Two_seasons
Posted on Wednesday, March 07, 2012 - 06:28 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Not sure with engine temp, but symptoms of ETS failure are stumbling, etc.

When I mentioned injector cleaner, I'm talking BG or Techron. But it doesn't matter now, as you have ordered new injectors. In the future, the easy way to check them is pull them and apply 12VDC to each. If it sprays, it's good. Drip is bad.

Another way to check lean condition is totally dark garage and watch the headers. Lean will glow. The brighter it is = leaner it is.

This thread is just crazy long! A lot of what has been asked by you could have been found, by you, if you would have read existing threads. I guess I'm just getting old and grumpy
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