| Author | Message | ||
     M2marc |
00M2. So i'm changing my front pads. I get them out and in the process loosen the wrong screw and out pours brake fluid. So now obviously I have to bleed the brakes. My problem is that while the pads are out the pistons are stuck. The only ones that move out( when the squishy brake is applied ) are the top right and top left and they dont move equally.I've tried cleaning them but it doesnt help because they are pushed in. What eles can I do? | ||
| Harleyelf |
Replace the O-rings like the manual says. Clean the pistons well while they're accessible. | ||
| Terrys1980 |
Caliper Rebuild Kit | ||
| M2marc |
Is it possible that because there is no pressure build up (brake goes all the way to the bar end)that the pistons just arnt moving? How can I go from a normal operating bike to just changing pads and now i need to rebuild the caliper? | ||
| M2marc |
Also i have the same problem that most do and that is the caliper doesn't want to come out. I've tried to find the sweet spot with the same results. i can get half of it out but the other half is scraping the edge of the rotor. I assume that i should not try to force it out. I may just tray to loosen the rotor. | ||
| Harleyelf |
Got access to compressed air? Apply air pressure to the inlet where brake fluid enters the caliper and push down on whichever side rises first to keep the piston level. This will ruin your O-rings for sure so get a set before you start the procedure. | ||
| Reepicheep |
Well that's easy. While the old pads were wearing, more of the piston was exposed, and it has oxidized and gotten dirty. You don't have to rebuild it if you only want to run worn out pads...  For you other question, I'm not quite picturing your problem. Is it that you can't get all the pistons out? If that's the case, can't you just put a C-Clamp or block of wood to stop the pistons that *are* moving, then use the lever to pump out the ones that are "stuck"? Even without a bleed, you ought to be able to get them to move if you pump enough. (Sorry if I am confused and confusing the issue, just trying to help) | ||
| M2marc |
if I put the old pads back in wouldn't i still have the same problem with the 4 pistons not moving. I will try the c lamp the two that are moving and see if the others come out. Thanx for the advice | ||
| Harleyelf |
Pressure will build up with repeated applications of the brake if your old pads are at least a third of the original thickness and you put them back in. After all the pistons are exposed you should be able to pop them out - be careful how you grip them so you don't squeeze them out of round. The last resort is to cut them out with an end mill and replace them. I doubt you will have to resort to that because they did move recently. | ||
| M2marc |
I was able to get all 6 pistons moving and cleaned. I would have popped them out and cleaned more if I could have gotten the caliper off. They all move back and forth just not al the same time. Got the new pads in and bolted back together. Now time for the tedious bleed. I dont have the injector for the quick fluid install. I will have to do the squeeze, bleed, release, repeat method. | ||
| Harleyelf |
I always just split my caliper when I want to get it off. It's easier than removing the rotor and the o-rings can be re-used if careful inspection shows no blemishes. The bleeding process can be accelerated by vibration - put a tube over the bleeder, crack it a tiny bit, and go for a ride around the block slowly enough that the rear brake can safely stop you. When the bubbles stop coming out in the tube, you're done. Top off the reservoir and you should have good brakes. It would be best if you changed those piston O-rings. Do you have the upgraded rotor with nine supports? St. Paul H-D (651lance) has them for $130 on ebay. If you have overnight to do it in, gravity will bleed the brake if you leave it with the bleeder cracked and the brake lever tied halfway in. | ||
| M2marc |
I thought about splitting the calipers but thought maybe I would get myself into more trouble. I was able to bleed them without a problem. Bled until the new fluid ran out of the bleeder. Just finished the rear brake as well. All is good for now. I guess I'll know when I go for a test ride. I don't think I have the upgraded rotors. Only 5 mounting screws. Thanx for all the help. | ||
| Harleyelf |
There are only five holes in the wheel; all rotors use five bolts. The nine mounts I referred to are to hold the "floating" rotor on the piece that bolts to the wheel. If you can see through them, you have the new style. If they are nuts and bolts with warp washers and there are only six, you have the old style. Congratulations on the successful assembly of your caliper. Watch to see that no fluid leaks from where you loosened the wrong bolt. | ||
| Reepicheep |
For bleeding, I've had good luck with doing a good basic bleed, then pumping up the brakes really tight, then putting a velcro strap on to keep the pressure on it over night. Then do another quick bleed again the next morning right after you pop off the strap. It seems to help quite a bit, at least when I try it. It was the only I could get my KLR-250 go from "terrifying" to "just hazardous".  | ||
| M2marc |
There are nine holes on the rotor. I assumed it was a stock rotor on the M2 | ||
| Harleyelf |
No, that is the upgrade. |
