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Buellfuel09
Posted on Tuesday, January 10, 2012 - 08:13 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

I have 09 Ulysses with 16k miles on it. I bought it used from a dealer and it had a Jardine Exhaust already on it. The Throttle Body Cable under the air cleaner and O2 Sensor are not connected. I have had no problems until recently when it started breaking up at mid range RPM's after using a small ammount of regular gas. I assumed I had fouled the plugs, I replaced them and filled it with "Super" The Bike ran Great! for one day. Today, it happened again on the way home. It just Hiccuped @ around 3500-5500 RPM... and I couldn't make it reoccur, until I got off the highway. Once it went down to idle speed it didn't want to run well at all.
could this be Bad Gas? Bad Battery? or more Serious?
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Terrys1980
Posted on Wednesday, January 11, 2012 - 07:05 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

I have had the same problem a while back and also just recently. The first time was a gas issue and this time I think its mostly related to the temperatures outside. I tuned my bike when it was around 90 degrees outside and the temp has dropped 40 degrees down here in Louisiana.

This really shouldn't happen if you lock the AFV during tuning.

Also that's the interactive exhaust valve cable that is disconnected. The Jardine does not use the exhaust valve.
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Buellfuel09
Posted on Wednesday, January 11, 2012 - 07:32 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Thank you for the insight on the interactive exhaust cable. I Plan on draining and replacing the fuel this weekend and taking it out for a test ride. what do you know about resetting the Throttle Position Sensor? I read that it may be the culprit...
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Blake
Posted on Wednesday, January 11, 2012 - 07:48 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

If you don't already have it, you probably need the EBR ECM for that exhaust. It may be running too rich or lean in the mid range.
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Kingjarhead
Posted on Friday, January 13, 2012 - 10:33 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

What about the crank postion sensor? This controls fuel and spark, I believe.
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Harleyelf
Posted on Friday, January 13, 2012 - 07:30 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Crank position sensor controls only spark. Your O2 sensor needs to be connected. Are the plugs fouled? Getting bad mileage? Got any trouble codes?
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Buellfuel09
Posted on Friday, January 13, 2012 - 08:14 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

I think/hope I found the problem! The top wire of the O2 Sensor is slightly melted and it looks like it may need to be replaced... it appears that I may need special tool/tools to get the Sensor out (really tight fit for everything) does anyone have experience replacing the O2 and the Upper wire? Should I attempt this? or is this one of those " I should have taken it to the shop tasks? What is the P.I.T.A factor on this one? I am also going to check battery/ecm plate grounds for corrosion. Thanks Xb12Xt posters
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Buellfuel09
Posted on Friday, January 13, 2012 - 08:16 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Harleyelf, I am an ignorant newbee! the O2 Sensor is connected and I plan to take on the task of replacing it...
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Buellfuel09
Posted on Friday, January 13, 2012 - 08:29 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Harleyelf,
I am getting around 38-40 MPG @ 75-80 MPH Commute) The old plugs were not bad, slighty black, but pretty equal front to back. I replaced the plugs as a 1st step and it initally ran Great! took a 20 minute moto on I-95 and went some back roads. Thought it was fixed. but next day, after a 30 min hgwy ride it started acting up again and after coming down to idle didn't want to run at all! barely made it home... I do not have any code readers like ECMSPY but i may be investing after all the research i am doing. EBR ECM may also be in the near future.
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Reepicheep
Posted on Friday, January 13, 2012 - 09:07 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

I'm assuming you will have to rotate the engine down, and pull the headers. A stack of fussy little steps that seems bad when you are doing it, but under an hours worth of work at the end of the day. The header will then be on your bench waiting for you to take out that sensor, at which point you can probably use a box end wrench (after a lot of penetrating oil and heat).
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Harleyelf
Posted on Friday, January 13, 2012 - 11:57 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Jim, you did good. You found the wire which is indeed the issue. PM me your phone number. I am in Melbourne and can show you the tools involved in O2 sensor changing. The questions about mileage were to pinpoint the O2 sensor fault as the issue, which your finding the melty wire has achieved. I have cut a slot in a spark plug socket but have found an easier way. You do not want to go to Melbourne H-D unless you really have to.
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Terrys1980
Posted on Saturday, January 14, 2012 - 02:37 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)


quote:

I'm assuming you will have to rotate the engine down, and pull the headers.



The O2 sensor can be accessed via the fan opening.
I copied this from another forum.
1. Place flat jack under rear muffler straps and raise bike to allow rear suspension to relax to a neutral tension
2. Remove lower shock mounting bolt
3. Raise rear of bike fully to allow swingarm to drop as far as possible
4. Remove rear shock upper mounting bolt
5. For Firebolt models, gently ease shock absorber/spring assembly downward and turn sideways to lie across rear fender. Place a shop towel between shock assembly and rear fender for cushion.
6. NOTE For both Lightning and Firebolt, it is NOT necessary to disconnect the accumulator hose or unfasten the shock reservoir.
7. For Lightning models, ease shock assembly upwards to lie across tail section. Use a shop towel as a cushion to protect the components.
8. Remove fan mounting torx fasteners
9. Extract fan with a slight clocking motion disconnect wiring plug and set aside
10. O2 sensor is now accessible through the opening


quote:

I do not have any code readers like ECMSPY



No ECMSpy needed. You can check the codes by jumping pins 1 and 2 on the diagnostic port.
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Buellfuel09
Posted on Saturday, January 14, 2012 - 07:18 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Thanks 1980,

This is a Ulysses XB12XT I am going to try to get to the sensor via the Fan Port.

the upper wire looks like a real bugger... where does the upper end connect? No Shop Manual Yet!
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Buellfuel09
Posted on Saturday, January 14, 2012 - 09:01 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Argh! this could be multiple items... ECM has Cracks around both plugs, Battery Ground cable end disconeccted from wire while loosening battery (reconnected & soldered that) top O2 wire still seems most logical...
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Ulynut
Posted on Saturday, January 14, 2012 - 09:20 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

I wouldn't trust that ECM if it has cracks in it. If it's not causing your current problem, it's only a matter of time before it causes other problems. I replaced mine with an EBR pre-programed ECM and it runs great.
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Jcs64
Posted on Saturday, January 14, 2012 - 09:48 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

that falling apart ground cable would stand out as the possible cause to this.
Did you go for a ride after fixing that to see if things got better?


jeff
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Buellfuel09
Posted on Saturday, January 14, 2012 - 10:02 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

I am trying to locate the bottom end of the O2 Ground Cable and it seems to dissapear from sight down into the cylinder. does anyone have the schematic showing where this thing connects? I am going to buy a mirror and keep on searching. Bike is apart no test ride yet... Cracks in ECM are not in Plastic the are in the compound that the plugs pass through, EBR ECM will be coming soon.
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Reepicheep
Posted on Saturday, January 14, 2012 - 10:21 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Rotating the engine doesn't sound much worse than going through the fan, and I think you would have much easier access, for what that's worth.

Every time I have had to pull an O2 sensor from a car, it wasn't pretty to do it in place. Those things get seriously stuck.
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Terrys1980
Posted on Saturday, January 14, 2012 - 11:28 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Rotating the engine isn't that difficult but you will have to disconnect fuel and oil lines.
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Harleyelf
Posted on Saturday, January 14, 2012 - 12:40 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

If only the insulation is damaged, the O2 sensor might be salvageable by simply adding a length of shrink wrap over the damaged insulation. The failing ground cable is a very important clue, and the cracked ECM needs to be replaced before any further troubleshooting. I'd hold off on dropping the engine or removing the shock.
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Buellfuel09
Posted on Monday, January 16, 2012 - 07:02 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

I gave up on the O2 Sensor when I noticed the negative battery cable was bad. I fixed the cable by soldering a new end onto it. i took the bike for a test Ride and it ran Great for fifteen minutes or so, then it just crapped out and wouldn't restart. After cooling down for 30-40 minutes it would fire right up and run for 3-5 minutes and die... it seems to be temperature related. Does this behavior sound more "O2" or "ECM" related. I do not want to get in over my head with the O2 Sensor and have it be the ECM. Are the ECM's just "Plug and Play" or do I need to do more technical things after replacing it? Please bear with me, I am new with the whole Buell Experience. I am leaning toward 305 bucks and twenty minutes vs. 50 bucks and 3-4 hours!
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Two_seasons
Posted on Tuesday, January 17, 2012 - 12:14 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Don't own Uly bike...but I've read where the seat bears down on the ECM and cracks the connectors.

Looks like you've discovered that too.

I'd replace the ECM and fix the issue with the seat bearing down on the ECM BEFORE you ride it again.

Edit: Another case of stuffing 10# into a 5# bag metaphor.

(Message edited by two_seasons on January 17, 2012)
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Harleyelf
Posted on Tuesday, January 17, 2012 - 05:11 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Sound like a cracked ECM to me. The new one will be "plug and play" but if the location caused failure once it will do it again unless you address the issue.
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Buellfuel09
Posted on Tuesday, January 17, 2012 - 08:06 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

I Just placed jumpers over pins #1 & #2 on the ECM and it has "No Stored Codes" (after test ride)
I did wreck this puppy with about 4500 miles on it and broke both seat rails and the Seat Went Flying... The Tail bag hit the ground first! Could a 12,000 mile delay in symptoms ever showing up be possible?
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Buellfuel09
Posted on Friday, February 10, 2012 - 05:38 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Anyone! bike has been in the shop for weeks... Replaced ECM, crank position sensor, turn signal module and recalibrated the TPS. and the bike still produces same results, once it reaches operating temp it shuts down. Tech is now telling me Fuel pump needs to be replaced and it's located in the swing arm (360 + 4 hours labor). He is going to replace O2 sensor while he has it apart. When i brought it in i told them i thought it was the O2 Sensor... Does this sound legit? how likely is it that this involves the fuel pump? could this be a undiagnosed wiring harness issue?
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Terrys1980
Posted on Friday, February 10, 2012 - 08:33 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

You should be able to measure the current draw of the fuel pump while this is going on. I would think a fuse would blow before the bike shuts down though.

The fuel pump is not located in the swingarm but the shock has to be disconnected from the swingarm.

You can buy a 93 Mustang fuel pump for around $100. The pump is a Walbro 255L pump, part # 4500270.

The pump can easily be changed in an hour, so 4 hrs is a bit too much.

http://badweatherbikers.com/buell/messages/32777/6 32890.html?1316649044
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Two_seasons
Posted on Friday, February 10, 2012 - 10:37 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Based on your experience with this shop, it sounds like they may be "shotgunning", spraying the bike with new parts.

My experience is mixed with shops. And now that you have your bike there, little can be done by you to mitigate the higher cost of parts used and associated labor costs. Shops do not like armchair mechanics and they won't like your input either.

Sometimes, the best way to stop the "shotgunning" is to pull the bike and bring it home. If you do that, chances are that Harleyelf may be able to help you.

Sounds like it's getting too much fuel, which could be the case with a stock ECM and an aftermarket exhaust. When exactly did you replace the exhaust, before or after the 4,500 mile wreck?
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Buellfuel09
Posted on Friday, February 10, 2012 - 12:37 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

2 Seasons and Terry, Thanks for the input the pipe was on when I bought it from Harley. I put 2500 miles on it before I went down. It just started cutting out at 16k. and I am stumped as to what to do? Harley Elf can you shoot me a P.M.
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Harleyelf
Posted on Saturday, February 11, 2012 - 09:38 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

PM sent. I'm in Volkswagen mode this weekend, oil cooler issue with Ghia and Transmission issue with bus. We'll get together and make your ride work if you send me a schedule of your free time. The dealer is throwing parts at your bike in the dark. The dartboard in their break room has lines on the scoreboard for wall, floor, and foot.

Bring your baby home. I can troubleshoot the wiring but I doubt that's your issue; wires don't fail when warm and then become good again. Don't waste your money on a fuel pump until you have proof that's the issue. The VWs are both waiting for parts. Do you have a lighted garage? We both work in Orlando and neither of us gets home until dark. Also, it's cold this week - gonna be below 40 tomorrow morning and I doubt I'll be riding to work.

(Message edited by harleyelf on February 12, 2012)
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