| Author | Message | ||
     Jmartz |
FB69 I have used D205's and 7's in the past. I feel 7 to 8 K is the best you are going to get with any of these including the Pilots. It might be my imagination but they seem to be going a little faster. I realy like them. It is subtil but they seem to hook up better. They look a bit neater in tread pattern. I'd go ahead and try'em, its not like you'll have to keep all that long. | ||
| Jmartz |
Don: I got them both off with shortened shafts. That is, cutting the Allen so there is little exposed not doing work (minimizes twisting) and using a u-joint as an extension. I just need the gold valves to arrive in the mail and off to the liberal route I go... Thanks for yuor help. Jose | ||
| Pjw |
I went into chandler harly wensday and asked for the new shock and explained what I have ben hering hear and they still refused becaus I have the srp they however said they would change it for a 100$ courtisy charge "courtisy my ass how about a handout" and just sruged me off and laughed do I need to call buell or is there somthing that I can just print up and take to them I would like to take it to the same servis wennies. OOPs spell check is not loading now the whole world knows my spelling sucks dam | ||
| Leeaw |
PJW, I am awaiting the arrival of the 2001 shock for my M2, and it already has the SRP on it. The dealer I now go to is not even where I bought the bike. I guess it all depends on who you talk to, but I would call BMC. | ||
| Rippin |
Can anyone tell me what it would take to make the M2Low into a standard other than just the seat? I noticed the front end squats under no load about 3/4-1" lower than the standard. My three nearest dealers can seem to find out. Thanks in advance Ryan | ||
| Buellzebub |
hey Rippin: don't quote me on it but i think the front shock mount is different too. | ||
| Bluzm2 |
Rippin, If I remember correctly, the shock is shorter, the front mount is different (to compensate for the shorter shock) and the triple tree angle is different (different part to restore rake and trail due to lowered rear end). I'll check the last Battle2Win issue, Reg had the whole skinny on the changes. BluzM2 | ||
| Bluzm2 |
Buellzebub may be right, it may be just the front mount, not a shorter shock. I'm pretty sure about the triple tree's though. BluzM2 | ||
| Bernie |
Hi all together, I own a 1998 S1 since last August and there is Showa shock build in I think the recall was done in 1999 but now it is leaking since yesterday therefore in Germany nobody nows about the recall for leaking. It it trough that there is a recall in the States for this problem ? I have read this above (i hope right cause my english is only from school and this is a looong time ago) but I need an confirmation for my dealer. The other thing is that in Germany some people have the opinion that I will get new shock for the reason that that shock is the same like in the X1 and it can break also but the German Buell Inc only does react when you ask for it. Do you have any information in the States about this Problem. Thank you all for you replies Bernie | ||
| Jmartz |
Just about finished installing the RaceTech's gold valve. Got into the forks because they had begun to bottom out on realtively small bumps. No oil losses and by the book maintenance. Upon inspection of the com damp cartridge I discovered the curlycue spring holding back the flapper on to the valve body has collapesed/sqooshed down. HD says "ther are no serviceable pars in the cartridge" hence no part #'s. A tough sell for a $.05 part. | ||
| Blake |
Bernie: You understand written english better than many East Texans I know! You should be getting a new 2001 shock free of charge though in your case this is not a recall, rather a free goodwill upgrade offered by Buell. Show them the appropriate service Bulletin from the top of this page and ask them to confirm approval with the factory per the end of the 4th paragraph. At least in the States that would be your scenario. Not sure if there is a difference for Deutchland. Good luck! Blake | ||
| Jmartz |
I need to fill my forks with oil and was wondering what brand to get. I last used redline 2.5/10w 50/50 to make 6.25W. The manual yells for 5W but a bit more thickness helps with rebound dampening. Any suggestions? jose | ||
| Dougp |
Jose, didn't you post back on 12/20 that you had several weeps that were "currently in remission", one being the fork seals? Did this condition worsen and require the fork re-build your doing? I believe I've got one leg (WP) that seems to be seeping ever so slightly. Not sure whether to dig into it, take it to someone better trained, or leave the damn thing alone. suggestions??? | ||
| Jmartz |
Doug that was likely Jose Q. To correct weeps or oil losses you will need to replace the seals. Only a special "slide hammer" tool that racetech sells for $65 is required. Forks come apart with a single allen socket at the bottom. Since there are no adjustments or special measuremenst I feel it is an owner doable job. | ||
| Jimc |
Jmartz Mixing two different viscosity oils (50/50) doesn't give the average of the two. I am not sure what you actually wound up with. So if you change oils again check your mix against the new stuff to see if your getting the viscosity increaase or decrease that you want JimC | ||
| Dougp |
Jose, my mistake. Does the "slide hammer" tool you refer to do the job of the fork bushing/seal installer? p/n B-41176 ? If that's the ONLY specialty tool I'd need, the "fifty bucks for both forks" quote I got from a local KTM dealer would under-cut doing it myself. Thanks for the help, Doug | ||
| Jmartz |
Doug: Undercut? Can't imagine you'll pay less than $200 labor for seals, bushings and a gold valve installation, and then you get to keep the tool and sell it to me or on ebay. J | ||
| Dougp |
Then it's settled. I'll go the "quick & dirty" way out now, (nice riding weather in central OH.) By going with seals only. And this fall/winter, the whole enchilada,(gold valves, springs, blah...blah..blah) Can you wait that long on a $70.00 fork bushing/seal tool? Thanks for the help dp | ||
| Jmartz |
Actually they are $65, but yeah, my seals are 40000 miles old and not leaking. Have a great summer. Jose | ||
| Doncasto |
Doug: I have been able to install the seals/tube on my 98 S3T without having to find/buy the "specialty tool." Buy cutting a 5 inch section of schedule 40 PVC (2 1/2 inch I think) in half lengthwise (making two half-pipes), placing them around the fork tube (seals/washer/ring already in on tube), wrapping the two halves with electrical tape and then using the lower leg assembly as a slide hammer to drive the whole assembly together. Total cost less than ten cents and it has worked for me several times without any negative downside for my being such a cheap sob. YMMV Don | ||
| Dougp |
Well there went Jose's bushing tool.  I knew intuitive farkeling would prevail!! Don thanks for the recommendation. I'll assume when the pvc pipe no longer moves the bushing and oil seal have been fully seated?? Dougp (ordering some parts and headed to the hardware store) | ||
| Doncasto |
Doug: You should notice a difference in the feel and sound of the impact of the lower leg when the seal is seated and the snap ring is in place. I quick visual check will determine the success of the operation by checking to see if the snap ring is in its groove in the lower leg. Use plenty of fork oil on seal, fork tube and lower leg as you assembly it. The "slide hammer" action should be deliberate but careful. Once the assembly is seated any additional hammering is counter-productive. Good luck with the project. Don | ||
| Jmartz |
That's very clever Don, thank's for saving us some money. Guess I'll take my wife out to dinner and spend those $65 on her. Jose | ||
| S2no1 |
Don, Add some Gates hose clamps and it's a winner. Arvel | ||
| Doncasto |
Arvel: Considered that during the R&D phase of the tool development, but opted for electrical tape. The cost per unit (over ten cents) would have been too high for my "production based" tool building. It is something I learned after comparing the build quality of Aaron's S2T compared with my S3T. According to my observations it must be fine to cut costs/increase failure rates as long as you have a dealer network to backstop your stingyness. Oh NO! I couldn't help myself. Some of the old rant mode rears its ugly head once again. Don | ||
| S2no1 |
Don, Well, that's ok, now you have two red stars. Your among friends, rant all you want. I know what you mean about the build. S2's are so detailed. What brought me to mine was the difference in feel when I sat on the new ones and it back to back. Got the bike for kc and the dealer rebuild the motor. Need to finish fixing my boo boos so it will look pristine again. Arvel | ||
| Sparky |
Ride Report on upgrade shock & new muffler mount: The 98 S3 came through with flying colors! It did 366 miles round trip all loaded down with wife & camping gear on the backroads to & from the Songdog Spring Rally (located between Santa Maria & Bakersfield) with no problems. 1 additional turn of shock preload & 1/4 turn more compression & rebound plus 2 clicks more compression on the forks was all it took to compensate for the added weight so that I could keep up a sporting pace without wallowing or bottoming. Last year on this trip (with the original recall shock) I couldn't get enough preload to level the bike. The ride quality was terrible. It was wallowing around & bottoming so much that the wire belt guard on the right saddlebag was hitting the belt guard and pushing it into the pulley, making a high pitched noise every time the bike went into a slight dip. It made no such noise this year with the new shock and its stronger spring! I'm impressed. Thanks, Buell Suspension Team, for making this bike competent on the backroads. Sparky 96S1, 98S3 | ||
| Reepicheep |
How hard is it to mount the rear replacement shock? My dealer should have mine in stock now, and I was thinking of trying to get them to let me yank the one off my current bike myself, and swap it for the new one. They are scheduling two months out for appointments, and I already waited three months for this because they screwed up the order. Any special tools? Any tricky adjustments? Anybody tried talking the dealer into a over the counter swap? They already inspected the bike, Buell approved the repair, and they should have received the new unit last week. Thanks in advance. Bill | ||
| Buellzebub |
any one know what the rate is for the factory race spring set for the forks? i've heard it'is around 1kg/mm. the price is right and i am wondering how it crosses over to the race-tech ones. | ||
| Jmartz |
RPCP: get the muffler of the bike, jack the rear up, jack the front up and lay the bike down on wood under the motor. you may now remove the shock. wedge the tire so you don't have the weight of the tire/pulley/SW/brake on the sock when you pull the bolts off. ping me off line when you get into it. i will provide assistance. no special tools rqd. Jose |
