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Buell Forum » Knowledge Vault (tech, parts, apparel, & accessories topics) » Engine » Big Mechanicals: Head, Cyl, Piston, Rod, Crank, Flywheel, Cases, Bearings » Alternator nut failed, how much alternator play on crank? « Previous Next »

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Lemonchili_x1
Posted on Friday, November 25, 2011 - 11:33 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Well, I guess it's my own fault really, I should have pulled it apart sooner...

I accidentally bounced my 2002 X1W off the rev limiter a couple of weeks ago, first time in years I'd done it. When I got it home I thought I could hear a different engine noise, but wasn't sure if it was my imagination. I rode it gently to work and back for a couple of days and it got a little worse, kind of a gentle knock plus when I shut it down there was a funny shhhh sound as the crank stopped. I researched BadWeb and suspected either the alternator nut or primary tensioner. I stopped riding it and pulled it apart today.

The alternator has stripped its thread and wasn't holding the alternator on at all . The primary chain had kept the alternator inline. Primary tensioner is fine.

The thread on the crank looks undamaged. From the little I can see of the splines on the crank and alternator they look undamaged however there is a little play, I'd guess a degree or less.

I'm not sure whether to pull the primary chain and alternator off or not. Should the alternator have any play or should it be a tight fit on the crank?

cheers,
chili
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Andersonhdj
Posted on Saturday, November 26, 2011 - 09:47 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Would not say you have a choice here, I am not sure what it looks like myself but from your description I would suspect a sheared woodruff key or parted boss on your rotor, the shhh sound I would guess, is your rotor freewheeling on the crank.
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Reepicheep
Posted on Saturday, November 26, 2011 - 09:50 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

I ran my M2 with that thing loose for about 60 miles before I figured it out. I believe it did have just a *little* play.

I figured the problem out while riding, because at idle it would "ring" with each revolution. If I just barely loaded the clutch (not enough to move), the ring would go away.

Tore it back down, tightened to the new spec, and it was fine from then on.
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Bluzm2
Posted on Saturday, November 26, 2011 - 10:58 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

What Bill said.
I worked on a friends S1 a couple of years ago, the primary nut was VERY loose and had been for some time. I could hear it a block away as he came down the street.
The nut was trashed, the splines badly worn, maybe 1/4 - 1/3 and the threads were pretty buggered at the end of the crank.
Replacing the crank would have been the right solution. Not in the cards due to cost though. After using a thread file on the messed up threads, I wound up using using liquid steel to fill the gap and torquing the primary nut to about 270 ft lbs. It's been that way ever since with no problem. However, it's going to be interesting getting the rotor off next time.......
Cleaning up the threads took the longest time. I had to use a thread file as I couldn't risk using a die and lining up the new and old threads. Slow and steady with the file and you couldn't tell where the cleaned up threads ended and the old good threads started.

Anderson, I'm going to take you to task here. You have obviously never had one of these motors apart. The crank and rotor are SPLINED, no woodruff keys. The shhh sound is the primary chain rubbing on the adjuster block. If the "rotor" was freewheeling the the bike would not move.
Please do not offer opinions here that are not based on fact or experience, this causes undue confusion.

Brad
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Lemonchili_x1
Posted on Sunday, November 27, 2011 - 06:31 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Thanks guys, I really appreciate your help. The threads on the crank do not look damaged at all. Either it stripped the threads in the nut in one go, or it wound its way out and then the smooth part on the end of the smoothed out the threads in the nut.

I will order a new nut tomorrow, I think I have spare gaskets. My service manual is buried in a box somewhere (probably with the gaskets!), I will dig it out before I put it back together, but a quick question - how involved is it to remove the rotor? I'd guess the clutch has to come out which also has a high torque nut to get undone?

I kind-of want to leave it alone... Reepi, did you pull the rotor off?
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Road_thing
Posted on Sunday, November 27, 2011 - 08:24 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Alternator rotor, primary chain and clutch assembly come off as a unit. Since your crank nut is already loose, all you have to do is remove the clutch hub nut, which is left hand thread (lefty-tighty, righty-loosey). Jam a short piece of metal between the rotor and the clutch sprockets to immobilize them so you can loosen the nut, then pull clutch, chain and rotor off. The S1 service manual in the KV will show you how to do it.

rt
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Lemonchili_x1
Posted on Sunday, November 27, 2011 - 08:51 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Cool, thanks rt : )
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Andersonhdj
Posted on Sunday, November 27, 2011 - 11:56 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Hey Brad, I said clearly that i didnt know exactly what it looks like , and no, i havent opened one of these motors beyond the clutch.
You are quite right of course!BUT the bottom line is the sensibilty of strip it and check.
I have an XB9 0n my hands with knackered crank cos some idiot bodged it!! seen way too many bikes destroyed due to stupidity and just in case you're wondering, i was in the bike repair business for many years, so experience i have a lot of, just not with this motor as yet. The South Africans dont appreciate the likes of these machines so they are actually quite few and far between.
My SINCERE apologies!
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Reepicheep
Posted on Sunday, November 27, 2011 - 05:14 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

I think the crank has a key on the other end, and you are in AU, so you were just looking at it upside down! : )

I didn't pull off the clutch that time (plenty of other times though)... so unless you want to get back there to look at the tranny, shift paw, or drum pins, no need to pull any more apart.
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Bluzm2
Posted on Sunday, November 27, 2011 - 08:26 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Hamish, no worries... I was pissed about something else and unloaded on you.. sorry.

Wait til you take one of these motors apart, they kind of grow on you. So delightfully simple in many ways.
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Andersonhdj
Posted on Monday, November 28, 2011 - 02:22 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Hey Brad, yeah,it's cool, sometimes one just looses the plot!
I have a taste for the exotic and am rather partial to big twins. Missed an 850 Le mans, just a day after I bought the XB9SX, another delightfully simple machine with torque enough to throw the earth off it's axis as they say!
Just a bit on the heavy side but once you've spent time on one, you don't want to park it!
Here in SA bike maintenance tends to either, very good or very bad!
I have seen some terrible sins committed as a result, bikes are treated very much as toys and not as a serious form of transportation, hence, very often maintenance is poor.
Please read my post on oil pressure,you obviously have insight, an opinion would be appreciated.
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Harleyelf
Posted on Thursday, December 29, 2011 - 11:49 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

No one has pointed out the left-hand threads on the clutch basket retaining nut. Graham, it's easy to take the chain, rotor, and clutch basket off together. If you've torn splines you'll see bits of metal all through the primary case. Brad's advice about the thread file is good. While you're in there you can make sure you have the most recent design of adjusting shoe. Mine came off its plate and spun up to the top of the chain.
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Lemonchili_x1
Posted on Friday, December 30, 2011 - 09:51 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Thanks, I had picked up on that, Road-thing did mention it above, but always worth mentioning it again.

I've received a new nut for the alternator rotor (thanks Slaughter!), and I think I have all the gaskets I need, but haven't had a chance to touch the X1 yet. The 1125R is back on the road now so I can take my time checking the X1.

It's an '02 X1W, so I think it has the latest primary tensioner from new, but I will find some pics of the newer design and compare while I have it apart : )
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