| Author | Message | ||
     Ralph |
Now that you have a view of the combustion chamber lets move on to the porting.  bighairyralph | ||
| Ralph |
And now the money shot.  Now you know why its a AXTELL MOUNTAIN MOTOR. See ya, back to work. bighairyralph | ||
| S2no1 |
Ralph, That look great. I'll remember to not try and out run you in a straight line in Co. Nitrous (LOL). Well as I recall one side is compression and the other is power. Maybe the Natural gas was run on the rich side and Nitrous was used to improve the amount of O2 available to the motor on the power side? Or are you just kidding? Arvel | ||
| Chuck |
Hey Ralph, "wanna" trade bikes? | ||
| Hans |
Jose, I knew in what range piston speeds have to be: More than 40 years ago I met an engineer who had to choose cars for his company. How did he do that ?? As there were much too much variables of any kind he made his choice dependent of the lowest piston speed at cruising speed. That sounded so crazy and funny that it crosses always my mind when vehicles are choosen. I remember the Alpha Romeo with a piston speed of 17 meter/second as being the lowest car on his list,(but the number one, as most attractive, on my list.) Maybe he was not soo stupid at all. Hans. | ||
| Axtell |
average speed isn't the whole picture---try going to work at 30mph and returning @ 90mph.---tell the officer you averaged 60 and see if he believes any damage was done:-) | ||
| Acharacter |
I have a question for someone thats been around Buells alot longer than I. The valve train on my 99 X1 sounds like a thrashing machine.... My dad has a sportster sport, and his valves dont make near the noise mine do. It almost sounds like i have solid lifters(which i dont), is this just a product of the higher lift cams on the X1. The bike also rattles the valves almost all the way through the gears if i give it a really good yank on the throttle(full Throttle) any help would be greatly appreciated or tell me if your X1 does the same thing........Thanks | ||
| Jmartz |
Ach: The noise you hear comes from the more aggresive profile of SEI cams and HD'd unwillingness to have a fitting selection of these like they do for thr std sportster grind. Ignore it, just use the bike. Wear a FFH and you won't notice it anymore. | ||
| Tripper |
Jose,Aren't you supposed to be riding somewhere, hatless and with new brakes? p.s count me not-likely for Colo. | ||
| Jmartz |
Don't have'm yet Tripper. Mr. Ferodo has had some difficulty getting them made. This week he is supposed to ship. Today, being Confederate Memorial Day (We are not ashamed of our history here in the South) I am off and getting ready to do the "Liberal Route". The ride where you encounter "serious" cyclists in full riding outfits, FFH's, GPS systems and cell phones. Atlanta, TWO, 180, 60 and back home on 400. How is Dorothy's realm? Is it getting warm yet? Karen spent a week in the city-over-the-line getting some computer training for her new job. | ||
| Acharacter |
Jmartz I do wear a fullface helmet mainly hear the noise when the bike is sitting there idling(when im not wearing a helmet), but i can hear them rattling with my helmet on at full throttle. Im running 93 octane since my bike is fuel injected setting the timing is out, any suggestions.... | ||
| Jmartz |
The valvetrain in Buells (except the M2) is noisier. These motors are clunky and shake a lot so normal noises are generated. I too hear a racket with my helmet on. For the most part it is normal. Worry about it if you are down in power. If not flog it and have fun. You only have 25000 miles before you'll need a top end job. Jose | ||
| Acharacter |
Thanks for your insight, i can now thrash my bike without worry...... well maybe a little worry, Thanks again | ||
| Blake |
Acharacter: If by "The bike also rattles the valves..." you are referring to pinging/predetonation, then please have your timing and/or intake manifold sealing integrity checked urgently. I've ridden a couple of X1's and not noticed any valve train noise out of character compared to my M2. Spray contact cleaner or something similar around your various intake manifold seals with the engine running. If the idle changes you know you have an intake manifold seal leak. Good luck. | ||
| Reepicheep |
Sorry if this was covered before, but as for noise make sure you check the obvious... make sure your primary chain is in adjustment. I heard noises on my M2 that I thought were valve related that turned out to be a loose primary chain. Its about as easy an adjustment as you can imagine, so definately worth checking anyway. Bill | ||
| Acharacter |
Blake......cant be timing,if it is there is nothing i can do about it.(ECM controls that)I had the race ECM installed awhile back. Seems like a intake leak would cause the bike to idle really rough, and you think it would run rough going down the road. The bike runs really good cruising, it just pings badly at near full throttle, like im running crappy gas.... | ||
| Jmartz |
Has anyone determined whether the Blast top rocker box will fit the Buell repalcing the two top pieces. Seems like it would help in simplicity and oil control as well as enhance th trick factor. Jose | ||
| José_Quiñones |
Somebody mentioned doing this before, and it is posted on the X1 files It should work, except that you then have to plug the side breathers, otherwise you would end up with four breathers! The other José | ||
| Jmartz |
JQ: You need to tell how to put accents down. Spanish keyboard? My concern is limited to wheter there might be any frame interference. "Clearancing" means to me "it doesnt really fit". Jose PS Being from the NE and having seen your picture I'm goin to guess you are PRican. So am I. Island or mainland? | ||
| José_Quiñones |
José é = hold down the ALT key and hit 134 on the keypad (numlock on) ñ = ALT + 164 Dude, small world. Yes, I'm from PR! Born in Carolina, lived in Fajardo till '94 when I got my Job. Parents still back there. In the DC Metro area now. The person who has already done this has not posted pictures of what it looks like, so I don't know how much "clearancing" is needed. | ||
| Jmartz |
Joså: The ñ work Ok at alt164 but look what I got with #134. I'll have to seek the code. I was born in mayaguez. Came to the US in 1977 to go to grad school and except for a brief return I been here since. Milwaukee, Atlanta, Boulder, Muscle Shoals and back to Atlanta. Haven't been back to the island much, 3 times in the last 15 years. Don't really care to pay for those tickets. Both my parents still reside there. We talk on the phone. | ||
| José_Quiñones |
Oops 130 gets you the é 129 gets you Mayagüez! That's where I went to college (Civil Engineer). You're going to Myrtle Beach? We can definetly get together there. Email me here. By the way, my S3 is named PUYA after the Puerto Rican Rock band. Ok Back to the regularly scheduled programming | ||
| Blake |
Acharacter, intake leaks do not generally cause an eratic idle. It certainly didn't on my M2. I got pronounced pinging under WOT. Check it out before you hole a piston. | ||
| Krboller |
ach/blake I too get the ping/preign. at a high speed throttle roll-on both on my 95 S2 and my 99 X-1, my dealer was absolutly no help at all and the mech suggested "they just suck alot of air at high speeds" I think he is confused about what sucks. ach - I too get valve train racket on my X-1 that sounds like a tappet is bleeding down, this racket started around 4300 mi and is far beyond the "normal" stitching noise of the lightning valve train. I would sure like to rid my bike of the racket. | ||
| Jasonl |
KRBoller - You may want to trundle on over to www.Sacborg.com and talk to CarlosT. He had lifters go bad on his M2 and may be able to shed some light on your situation. At least he could relate some symptoms if nothing else. I would say post here and ask him but I'm not sure if he's still around here since he sold his M2 for a BMW. | ||
| Blake |
Guys, check for intake seal leaks. Set your engine at a fast (1500 rpm) idle. Spray contact cleaner, or WD-40, or like mentioned above even a fine mist of water onto/around the three intake manifold seals. Predetonation causing leaks will be indicated by a significant drop in your rpm. You should be able to isolate the offending seal(s). MOst likely it will be one of the seals where the manifold mates to the cylinder heads. Buell has gone through two recent revisions to the design of these seals. The first changed the retaining ring from steel to plastic. The second (current) revision went back to steel but with a different seal compound. Also, running the new 10R12 plugs might help prevent predet too. | ||
| Blake |
Saving a good discussion on Rocker box gaskets/leaks from... http://www.sacborg.com SacBORG FORUMS General Discussion AAAAAAAAAARRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRGGGGHHHHHHHHHH!!!!!!!!!!! Author Topic: AAAAAAAAAARRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRGGGGHHHHHHHHHH!!!!!!!!!!! Two Shoes Member posted 04-22-2001 06:15 PM -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- First nice day in a while..... go out for a short (85 mile) jaunt... round the local hills. Come back, park bike.. watch oil accumulate under bike... follow oil up to battery, forward ot back top side of cylinder #2. (insert expletive here) Cecil... lemme have it.. the rest of you, with useful input.... Rockerbox gaskets? if so... how much should I be paying for the fix? Definitely go to my dealer? I have a buddy that owns a cycle shop and is a great mechanic, says he could do it for 100 clams or so... Thoughts? Thanks in advance, Tim (p.s. Cecil... only 5,450 miles till this stupidmuthergolfingpieceofshit started to puke.) IP: Logged Bob Gussenhoven Member posted 04-22-2001 06:52 PM -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- Two Shoes, It is definetly not the end of the world. Fixing a rocker leak is well within your capable hands. (Have Book?) Sleezcil, SHUTTHEGOLFUP before you start. IP: Logged woodman Member posted 04-22-2001 08:04 PM -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- Timmy, Are you daft man? Useful output from Cecil? BWAHAHAHAHAAAaaaa! Ok, occasionaly he does have something useful to say, but he is a new breed of rider who distances himself with the intimacy of motorcycling by having someone else do the work (sometimes incorrectly and expensive too). Not YOU Timmy! Not you, oh my brother! Get thee a manual, some wrenches and allen keys for your $100. Go forth unto your steed and belabor about the upper regions of thine mount (no, not Karina, the bike)....and you will be the richer for this, for you will have exorcised the DEMONS of doubt, you will have become more understanding of the creator's machine. And it shall come to be that in your time of triumph and newfound wisdom, you shall pass this knowledge unto someone else and smite the new breed of rider from the face of the earth. Can I get an amen? -JamesW- Next week, I'll teach a man to fish. IP: Logged JimA4Media Member posted 04-22-2001 09:34 PM -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- Welcome to the club. I've had 4 rocker box leaks in the last 6 months. Two front, two rear. Buell techs say that it is because the heads aren't torqued down correctly. If you do it yourself and use James or Cometic metal gaskets, and torque them down properly, you will probably save yourself from having a dealer do it. The problem is, the James and Cometic gaskets aren't HD approved, and therefore aren't warranteed if something else should happen to the top end of the motor. I keep having a dealer do the heads because my bike is still under warranty, and I don't want to void it. I really wish Harley and Buell would fix all the oil leak problems in the 2002 models. Jim X-2.5 [This message has been edited by JimA4Media (edited 04-24-2001).] IP: Logged Ray Member posted 04-22-2001 09:44 PM -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- My James gaskets still leaked, though rockerbox leaks were the least of my worries. Good luck. Ray IP: Logged budman1950 Member posted 04-23-2001 04:20 AM -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- I did my own. Easy fix. Mine went out at 1700. A friends FatBoy just let loose at 3500. I feel great that it hasn't done anything wrong and it's up to 4500 miles. Ken Budzek ------------------ If you let up for a second, that's where you'll finish. There are no second place winners. IP: Logged CarlosT Member posted 04-23-2001 06:49 AM -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- Two words: James gaskets (the metal and silicone ones). Any worthwhile HD/Buell dealer will replace the stock ones with these under warranty if you bring them in. Don't let them tell you any bullshit about improper torquing and that the HD gaskets are good...they SUCK! Sam Da Man racked over 18,000 miles in less than a year and has gone through 2 sets of stock HD •••• paper gaskets then he installed the James stuff himself. So far so good. IP: Logged Cecil Member posted 04-23-2001 07:47 AM -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- I second what Carlos said. There's no excuse for these gasket failures. Harley blows hairy rhino anus when it comes to their gaskets! That said, this is certainly not the end of the world. If the worst thing that happens to your Buell is a leaky rocker box, you're golden. Easy fix, see if the dealer will do it for free under a good will fix. It doesn't take them long at all. If you do have to pay, then go for the James gaskets. Problem will be gone forever. IP: Logged JoeBuell Member posted 04-23-2001 09:06 AM -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- Timmy, Do the fix yourself, it's easy and you'll learn more about your bike. This comes in handy for the day when something goes and the bike isn't under warranty. I'd recommed you have the service manual, a set of hex keys , torque wrench, socket set, and the new James or Cometic gaskets. It shouldn't take much more than an hour or so, but I would recommend you have your girlfriend or someone else around as an extra set of hands. ------------------ JoeBuell 99 Race Stripe IP: Logged JoeBuell Member posted 04-23-2001 09:07 AM -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- Timmy, Do the fix yourself, it's easy and you'll learn more about your bike. This comes in handy for the day when something goes and the bike isn't under warranty. I'd recommed you have the service manual, a set of hex keys , torque wrench, socket set, and the new James or Cometic gaskets. It shouldn't take much more than an hour or so, but I would recommend you have your girlfriend or someone else around as an extra set of hands. ------------------ JoeBuell 99 Race Stripe IP: Logged Two Shoes Member posted 04-23-2001 09:28 AM -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- wow... thanks for all the advice guys... First.. I (hit me now) don't have the service manual... anyone with a spare S1W manual around? Second... I am afraid of this thing a little.... I have completely torn apart small engines before, and rebuilt them, with great success, (dirt bikes, 4 wheelers, lawnmowers, etc) Is this going to be any more touchy? difficult? Do i just pull the tank and the seat...? I will be getting a service manual, so if these are all answered within, just ignore the dumb questions... Will i need to remove the motor from the frame? should my dealer (a good one, i believe) have the gaskets in stock? should i order them from an aftermarket source? I will know more when i begin to take it apart tonight, i guess... I haven't cosely inspected it for other possibilities... are there any? Thanks, Tim [This message has been edited by Two Shoes (edited 04-23-2001).] IP: Logged Two Shoes Member posted 04-23-2001 09:35 AM -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- oh.. and by the way... (just to stir the pot a little bit more) I rode a friend's turbo hyabusa last nite... 340 horsepower (i saw the dyno pulls) and it didn't leak at all.... he says he can run 8 second quarters with street tires and no wheelie bars.. (that i haven't seen, but i would tend to believe him...) He has a few bikes for sale, in the "stupid fast and powerful" category.. since he just bought two new gixxer 1000's to "play with", so if anyone is interested in some crazy bikes, lemme know... for example a gsxr 1100 bored to god-knows-how-big wit ha stretched swingarm, and two nitrous tanks under the seat... he is the one who will either be helping me, or doing the headwork on my Buell. ------------------ Tim Reiter '98 S1W IP: Logged Aaron Member posted 04-23-2001 09:55 AM -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- Woodman hit the nail on the head. I won't even try to add to it, he said it so perfectly. But, on the flip side, totally entrusting your bike to others has been known to make motorcycle experts out of people IP: Logged Aaron Member posted 04-23-2001 10:16 AM -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- Tim: DO get the manual. Basic procedure is: - remove the tank (dirt simple) - remove the cover (4 allen head screws, cut off a wrench or better yet, get the $20 ultra low profile tool, Dennis Kirk carries it among others) - position the cyl such that both valves are closed (take out the plugs, rotate the motor, watch the valves) - remove the lower rocker box (3 1/4" gr8 bolts way on the floor with 7/16 heads, 4 5/16" bolts with 1/2 heads at each end of each rocker shaft, 2 more 1/4" allen head bolts) - clean the gasket surfaces, install the new gaskets (yes I recommend the steel pieces, and I also put some aviation sealer on them, but I'm weird) - set the rocker box on, finger tight left side 5/16 bolts, and *slowly* bring down right side bolts. It will try to open the valves. Pause, have a beer, let it bleed down so that the valves close, tighten some more, another beer, etc, until the rocker box is on there. Never open both valves very far, or they could hit each other. - torque all the bolts by the book - VERY important. Use the appropriate size torque wrench. I like using a 1/4" drive below about 15ft/lbs, 3/8" drive from about 15 to 40 ft/lbs. Torque wrenches are too inaccurate if they're oversized for the job. Also, I've been known to twist off the little gr8 bolts on the floor of the rocker box when torquing to the high end of the specified torque range - use the low number! - make sure 10 minutes or so passes between torque down and rotating the engine, so that you know the lifters have bled down. Piece of cake. Takes about an hour. Best of luck, AW [This message has been edited by Aaron (edited 04-24-2001).] IP: Logged Sam Da Man Member posted 04-23-2001 10:28 AM -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- If its under warranty make em fix it. Again and again if needed. If they dont resolve it then do it yourself. But HD wont get sick of the issue and fix the problem if they dont see the warranty claims pile up.. Make em fix it, you paid em already. My warranty set lasted almost 10K. Bout twice as long as the factory set... Of course that being said, there would have to be a catastrophic failure for my bike to see a dealer service bay... SF IP: Logged Ray Member posted 04-23-2001 02:07 PM -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- BTW, Woodman/JamesW, that was a positively inspiring sermon. You holding out on me??? Ray IP: Logged Two Shoes Member posted 04-23-2001 07:36 PM -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- one more uneducated question... do i run the risk of damaging the bike riding it till I fix it? (other than the obvious, keep the oil full and off the back tire) thanks all for the great feedback.. and Aaron, or anyone else... Looks like I will be fixing it myself, probably before I am able to get my hand on a service manual.... anyone know the specs on torquing the bolts?\ Thanks again, Tim IP: Logged ManhattanMike Member posted 04-23-2001 07:42 PM -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- quote: -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- Originally posted by Aaron: . - or better yet, get the $20 ultra low profile tool, Dennis Kirk carries it among others) -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- What does this tool look like Aaron? I cut down an allen key, but if there is a tool to make life easier, i'd like to get one. IP: Logged Sam Da Man Member posted 04-24-2001 03:48 AM -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- quote: -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- Originally posted by Two Shoes: Looks like I will be fixing it myself, probably before I am able to get my hand on a service manual.... anyone know the specs on torquing the bolts?\ Thanks again, Tim -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- Get a manual. But from memory..and I would check first. Lower rocker box bolts(7/16) head 12 ftlbs Rocker arm shaft retaining bolts (1/2) 15 ftlbs Lower rocker box bolts (allen head) 100 INCHlbs Upper Rocker Cover allen bolts..120 INCHlbs These are the values Ive used on SPORTSTERS and Buells are same, but different. So FIND a manual BEFORE you take it apart. SF rocker box leaks are a rite of passage...welcome to the American V Twin IP: Logged al_lighton Member posted 04-24-2001 06:44 AM -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- Tim, What a great opportunity this is! You get to: 1) Work on your bike in a meangingful way (not just a silly spark plug change) 2) have a bunch of stuff off so you can inspect for anything else that could be not quite right 3) polish your rocker box! Call me stupid, but if it was me, I'd do the other one while I was in there. You KNOW it's going to go, might as well take advantage of the other parts being off. And of course, your polished rocker boxes will match this way :-) seriously, it isn't a big deal. You can do both in a saturday afternoon, WITH beer. Add a doob and it may take longer. Al IP: Logged Snail Member posted 04-24-2001 06:48 AM -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- Timmy, I'll come and do the work for you if I can fondle Carrina's sister... Paul IP: Logged Aaron Member posted 04-24-2001 06:56 AM -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- Well, since I DO need to keep up my know-it-all reputation ... here you go ... Hopefully you can read this, sorry for the poor quality. This is a better set of instructions than I gave you, anyway. I was working from memory. The instructions on the page before just tell how to put the head on and say lay the gasket down with the bead up. I use a crow's foot on the bolts blocked by the frame, calibrated on a bolt that's already been torqued. You should be able to get most any shop to get you the steel gaskets. They were only available individually for awhile, but now you can get them in rocker box sets.I wonder if Tat carries them? He should, if he doesn't. You can also check www.cometic.com and www.jamesgaskets.com. That's the tool, MM. It's Dennis Kirk part number H28-223, $22.99, (800) 328-9280. Don't know who makes it or if it's available through Drag or CCI (Dusty?). Again, Tat *might* carry it, give him a ring. Best of luck, AW IP: Logged Two Shoes Member posted 04-24-2001 10:08 AM -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- Man.. I don't care what Rocket says about you guys.. you all are the best... Thanks a lot Aaron, as well for the great pic and info... I'll keep you all posted on how it turns out... only one question left unanswered.... do i run the risk of damaging the bike riding it till I fix it? (other than the obvious, keep the oil full and off the back tire) thanks again, ------------------ Tim Reiter '98 S1W IP: Logged bigj Member posted 04-24-2001 12:32 PM -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- No, but I can tell you from experience, if they start leaking, you'll probably be lucky to get 50-75 miles before it becomes a full gusher! By my third replacement, I got in done in less than an hour.First time took about 2 1/2 hours. big j IP: Logged CarlosT Member posted 04-24-2001 12:57 PM -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- ...now base gaskets is different story. This is no 1-hour job I'm sure. IP: Logged ManhattanMike Member posted 04-24-2001 02:37 PM -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- quote: -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- Originally posted by CarlosT: ...now base gaskets is different story. This is no 1-hour job I'm sure. -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- Carlos, it's only a few more bolts to remove the jugs...probably another 10-15 minutes max. IP: Logged Sam Da Man Member posted 04-24-2001 03:36 PM -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- quote: -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- Originally posted by ManhattanMike: Carlos, it's only a few more bolts to remove the jugs...probably another 10-15 minutes max. -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- Now, now Mike...at least half an hour, gots ta deal with those rings doncha know. IP: Logged CarlosT Member posted 04-24-2001 04:48 PM -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- ...that's Sam...no special tools...PCV pipe for fork seal driver...sawdust in the primary to keep the noise down...toothpaste for lapping compound...never saw the inside of a Snap-On truck. IP: Logged Sam Da Man Member posted 04-24-2001 05:08 PM -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- quote: -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- Originally posted by CarlosT: ...that's Sam...no special tools...PCV pipe for fork seal driver...sawdust in the primary to keep the noise down...toothpaste for lapping compound...never saw the inside of a Snap-On truck. -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- Dats right. Thays all just parts. And parts is parts...just bolt em together . I think I own the snap on truck..its somewhere around here... Da Man If you can take it apart, you shirley can put it back together IP: Logged ricky Member posted 04-26-2001 09:25 PM -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- Ya know, I've read this thread when it first started and thought to myself, 'damn, I must be lucky. My bike is holding up just fine.' Well now I've got a question. Are the rocker boxes and the shock hooked into the GOLFING ODOMETER????? Is BMC using a satellite downloading system to track the mileage on our bikes? So that when it hits 10 or 12 thou a light goes off back in East Troy which in turn transmits a self destruct code directed at the shock and/or rocker gaskets? Bastards! Bet you can't guess what I found leaking today. [This message has been edited by ricky (edited 04-26-2001).] IP: Logged JoeM Member posted 04-27-2001 03:32 AM -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- I think it's puberty for Buells... IP: Logged Two Shoes Member posted 04-27-2001 04:38 AM -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- ANYONE If anyone has the old "downloadable" .pdf file that is the S1/ S1W service manual, could you please ping me at tbueller@msn.com I have some of it (I printed out back when the old old website was up) but not the file in its entirety. Thanks, Tim ------------------ Tim Reiter '98 S1W IP: Logged Blake Member posted 04-27-2001 08:30 AM -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- Change the front gasket just because the rear is leaking? I didn't; front is still doing fine 10,600 miles later. My philosophy is strongly rooted in "If it ain't broke, don't fix it." James/steel gaskets: Like someone above said, they can leak too. The stock gaskets are fine... IF (big if) they are installed correctly. This means on a "bone dry" clean surface, and properly positioned, and without touching oily fingers to the gasket surface (think "clean room"). The surfaces have to be clean and dry so that the gasket adhesive can do it's job. After tediously cleaning/removing the old gasket using solvent and a razor, I re-scuffed the rockerbox's faying surface using jeweler's paper on a granite table (probably not necessary); I used contact cleaner to clean the faying surfaces of the rockerbox and head just prior to gasket placement. I was very careful to avoid touching the gasket faces, especially the one with the adhesive/sealant bead. Maintaining the gasket in it's correct position while slowly/gradually torquing the box down is probably the toughest part of the job, but if clumsy me could do it, most anyone can. My leak was due to obvious improper installation at the factory. (Two expert HD/Buell mechanics have confirmed to me that sloppy factory install is by far the major reason for rockerbox gasket leaks that they have seen.) In my case, the rear cyl's gasket at the left rear corner had been pushed inwards, leaving only a sliver precariously sealing the gap. After 2.5K miles that sliver gave up. Now after over 13K miles, all the oil stays inside my engine. One other suggestion... run with two quarts (Courts?) per the capacity in your manual. It seems that topping up to the line on the dip stick, at least in some bikes, results in excessive oil being thrown out the breathers at high rpm. Maybe the '01 oiling system improvements have solved this? Respectfully yours (except for you, Cecil)  , Blake (wondering about Aaron's over-torquing method) PS: Vik, this is a good discussion to save. Mind if I copy it to the BadWeB Knowledge Vault? Too late... I already did. (That's another of my philosophies, if you don't want to be told "No", don't ask permission.) | ||
| Krboller |
Blake, thanks for the reply,I'll check for leaks as soon as I get the X1 back from the $100 shock upgrade, what do you think the chances are that the static timing needs to be checked? and....can I do it on my X1 without the breakout box? Also, my dealer changed the tappets at 4300 miles after the v'train racket began which followed a tappet bleed down on a long hot ride to the Keys, racket returned. | ||
| Krboller |
Blake,(or Court) didnt I read somewhere about a BMC notice to change all sparkplugs to the 10R12's at BMC's cost? anybody else? | ||
| Reepicheep |
Well... looks like I have the prototypical "Friday Buell"... First the blown speedo sensor, then the leaking showa, then the blown speedo sensor, then the leaking rear rocker box. The perfect Buell Trifecta. Anyway, I think I am going to take a crack at doing this myself, and I have read the archives. I have a few questions left. 1) Does the new James Steele Rocker Box Gasket kit include the replacement fibre washers, or do I need to order these seperately? How many do I need (to do both rocker boxes). 2) Is the torque on the topmost allen head bolts important? If I have to cut down an allen wrench to fit in there... obviously I won't be getting a torque wrench squeezed in. I presume once I get that part off there is then enough clearance to get the torque wrench in for the other bolts... but maybe I am missing something. 3) Some of the descriptions talk about rotating the engine and letting the pressure bleed down... I understand the bleed down part, but should I be actually rotating the engine during parts of the install? When and how? I glanced through my service manual and did not see anything about it. 4) Should I put on additional RTV Black (or yamabond or similiar) in addition to the gasket? Or is that just asking for trouble? Thanks for any help. I will document and photograph the procedure and put it up here to save future bandwidth on this issue... sounds like it is a job quite a few of us will be doing or have done...  Bill |
