| Author | Message | ||
     Jeffb |
Bigblock, The X1's don't have a VOES switch. Still wondering what the flow rate of the stock injectors is. Any ideas? Thanks Jeff | ||
| Bigblock |
Duh! No voes-shows how many X1's I've tinkered with! Let me do a little research on that flow rate- I'll get back to you...Ray | ||
| Doc5339 |
I need help with performance mods to my 2000 M2. So far have only put on a Vance & Hines SS2R; plan to jet the carb ans install a Pro Series breather. Ii there a big difference between Dynojet, Thunderslide, or V&H for jet kits? | ||
| Rippin |
Doc Don't bother. Spring the extra few and go with the mikuni 42. See Tat he'll set ya up. Rippin | ||
| Clydeglide |
deleted | ||
| Clydeglide |
Doc, Another opinion Take the money for the Mikuni and spend it on a Thunderslide kit for the CV and a dyno tune. IMHO biggest bang for the buck! You should get a dyno tune if you don't do anything else. . Clyde | ||
| Aaron |
Another opinion ... buy a needle, pilot jet, and main jet at your local HD dealer and avoid all these kits. Less than $20. AW | ||
| M2cyclone |
I've got an '01 M2 and I'm doing the needle, pilot and main jets route initially. In about 6 months, I plan on taking the CV off of my bike and installing it on my girlfriends Blast so she'll be rid of the automatic choke and put a Mikuni on my bike. We'll both come out better that way. | ||
| Troop |
I have an 00 M2. I went the route of the #45 slow speed jet/1988xl needle/2 turns out on the EPA screw and drilled out the slide vacuum hole to 7/64ths(optional). I also have a YoDude intake and V&H pipe installed. My bike runs flawlessly ! It idles smoothly,warms up faster and has no more sputter,stutter or hesitations. The additional nice part ? The cost for carb parts was $12.00 ! Try this route first. You won't be out much and you may be totally happy. | ||
| Bluzm2 |
M2Cyclone I concur with Troop, I have the same mods to my 00 M2, stock airbox with K&N filter, stock pipe. No spits, farts or stuttering. It only takes about an hour and your back on the road. Added bonus, you get to spend some quality time with your scoot! BluzM2 | ||
| Doc5339 |
Thanks for all the advice. I probably will go the cheaper route, though I still plan on getting a pro serie air breather. | ||
| Yardbird |
Hey All, I've got a ' 98 S1WL that's running stock except for the 45 pilot, 175 main and airbox gutted, K&N. I recently moved from Phoenix (1000 ft) to Placerville (3000 ft) and will be putting on a SuperTrapp this weekend. Can anyone save me a little time and predict the main jet I should go to? I've got a set of jets that includes up to 210 I think. I had trouble with this bike initially as it came stock with a 200 main jet and would choke itself out when cracking the throttle. It was surprising to get it to run so well with just a 175 main. Are dynojet jets numbered the same as any others? Thanks for any help. I'll post results. JB | ||
| Chuck |
My guess for your main jet is 190. Tell me later if I'm right. Dynojet jets are not numbered like anyone else's. I don't remember what they base their sizing on. I think that the numbers on O.E.M. jets correspond to mils ( 190 jet has an inside diameter of 190 mils ) Please double check this info with a more reliable source (you will not hurt my feelings). P.S. go 2 and 3/4 turns out on your pilot screw - - - remember this is just MY wild-assed guess  | ||
| Yardbird |
Thanks Chuck, I'll post here what the results were. JB I make a living capitalizing on my wild-ass guesses! | ||
| Yardbird |
Thanks Chuck, I'll post here what the results were. JB I make a living capitalizing on my wild-ass guesses! | ||
| Yardbird |
Thanks Chuck, I'll post here what the results were. JB I make a living capitalizing on my wild-ass guesses! | ||
| Onlyblue |
What methods have proven worthwhile at reducing the Buell engine temp? My S3 with fewer than a thousand miles starts having idle speed spasms between 1300 and 1500 rpm if it gets a little on the hot side. Any info on oil coolers or increasing engine oil capacity would be appreciated. | ||
| Yardbird |
IMHO - Buell motors are air cooled, not oil cooled. Cooling your oil by 15 degrees will have no effect on the problems you are experiencing. It sounds to me like you've got a bad sensor somewhere in your FI loop. It could be the temp sensor or possibly your oxygen sensor. Another thing to look for would be an intake leak. Bottom line - if you're not comfortable troubleshooting these components, get your bike to a dealer. Good luck - JB | ||
| Jasonl |
Quick question for the carb techs out there, or really anyone with a good sounding answer. ~*How can you tell if your cycle is running lean?*~ I know you can check the plugs...is that the only way? Any suggestions? Thanks -JL | ||
| Mikej |
I'm not really a carb tech, but you can check the exhaust for color or deposits on the outlet pipe, or hook it up to an emmissions exhaust analyzer if you don't want to drill any holes in the headers and do the exhaust gas analyzer installation as our friend in France did. Also, doesn't a lean engine tend to run hotter than a rich one? | ||
| Chuck |
Jason --- your carb has 2 different fuel "circuits" ... pilot circuit and main circuit. Either can run lean. IMHO the pilot circuit is easiest to diagnose when set too lean. Usually, a lean pilot circuit will cause a "lean mis-fire" or "popping" sound in the exhaust as you decelerate. The main circuit is tougher. Dynojet says that a bike that runs poorly when "asking for power" is generally too rich; but a bike that runs poorly when not "asking for power" is generally too lean . . . IMHO its better to err on the too rich side of perfect than to err on the too lean side. A dyno will help immensely but may not always give you optimal results. I like to gradually adjust the main circuit to be richer and richer until power during acceleration drops off or I can feel a "flat" spot or "bog"; and then, gradually adjust the main circuit leaner until this symptom just disappears. We once "optimized" a race bike (FZR400) on the dyno for peak horsepower; but found that, on the track it had a "rich" flat spot at 9500 rpm ... and so we had to lean out the main circuit until the problem went away. This is an extreme example of a highly modified bike but it illustrates the CV carburetor tuning exercise . . . hope this helps you more than it hurts. | ||
| Dart |
I bought a #45 slow jet and a #195 main jet, but when I gave the clerk the part # for the N65C needle. He told me that part number(27094-98) was an invalid part number. He looked it up in his computer at the parts counter and in a Sportster Parts Catalog. Nothing matched. Do I have the wrong part # or doesn't my parts clerk know where to look? | ||
| Aaron |
The number is actually 27094-88 Blake, this keeps happening, perhaps you could correct the note at the top of the page? AW | ||
| Jasonl |
Thanks for the help fellas. It seems that I'll have to combo a bunch of methods. Listen for a popping on decel and read the plugs. I'll let you guys know how it goes. | ||
| Blake |
Thanks Aaron. It's done. | ||
| M2cyclone |
Can someone here furnish me a list of HD main jet part numbers for sizes 200, 205, 210, 215, 220, and 225? I'm trying to compile a quick reference list of all the slow and main jets as well as needles for my HD parts guy so WE won't have to look through the books to find them. Also, if anyone has part numbers for any other needles or slow jets not listed on this site somewhere, please forward them to me. I'll post this list for all when I'm finished. | ||
| Aaron |
Take a look here for a bunch of CV part numbers. | ||
| M2cyclone |
I've got those numbers already. I'm looking for the bigger main jet numbers. Thanks, Glenn | ||
| Josh |
New fuel injection manifold, P/N 29532-99YA    | ||
| Sethspeaks |
I just bought a S1WL with 1900 miles, it's my first bike since I rode dirt a little as a kid, it seemed to run great at first, but as I've been running it harder and longer it has started to develop some problems. 1. When idling the exhaust is so rich the neighbor from 2 doors down complains. 2. It pings regularly when taking off in first gear. 3. It hesitates when you roll on the throttle after coasting for a minute. 4. It will backfire a little sometimes when I let off the throttle. 5. When I turn it off after it has warmed up it diesels for a few seconds. It also SEEMS to be down on power. I don't really have anything to compare it to and I've been VERY careful with the throttle but that's how it seems. Any help at all would be greatly appreciated. Thanks, seth |
