| Author | Message | ||
     Sparky |
. . . is worth a Court/Archive/link for safety wire procedure. Long term road test: 1st 25 miles no problems. Next report in 25,000 miles. Thanks, Sparky | ||
| Dave |
Mark wrote: " ... My S3T has been rubbing them on the fairing mount." I went out to take some pictures of mine Mark. Does this look familiar?  DAve | ||
| Marks3tbillet |
Dave, that looks real familiar. I am confused by your picture though. My fairing mount bolts are on the left side of the bike, nuts are on the right. Has yours been removed, because the cables run on the left side of the steering head, right? I'm hoping to get a look at another S3 soon to figure out how I need to fix the routing. I had my fairing mount off, so my wires may not be routed exactly right. The dealer I've been to the last few times has no S3s to check out. If I figure it out, I'll let you know. | ||
| Dave |
Yeah a St Louis "HD, Suzuki, on and yeah Buell too" dealership replaced my frame. (Not happy with their workmanship) It wouldn't surprise me if you told me my fairing mount is upside down! ;-) I thought it unusual that mine was rubbing though as well. Post the pics if ya get 'em. The Buell dealerships around here have very limited inventory for some reason .... DAve | ||
| Roadhawgs |
Can anyone suggest a good replacement performance air cleaner for my M2 that can be used in all weather conditions? I like the looks of the Force, But I understand you can't ride with it in heavy rain. Any opinions on the stock air box mod on the ATC web page? If this gives good performance, I'll use it. Thanks | ||
| Stoner |
I have a friend that just got a set of Thunderstorm heads that were done by a guy named Ron Hamp. Apparently this guy does alot of pro racers motor work, ala Nicky Hayden, etc. They have been ported and polished, bigger valves, and springs. They have raised "D" shaped ports. He is going to install these on his '00 X-1, with redshift cams, keeping stock bore, stroke, and pistons. He is utilizing a Buell race pipe, K&N filter, and power commander. The question is can the stock fuel injection handle it. Are there any modifications that can be done, such as boring out the throttle body, or changing to bigger injectors, that may help. Another option may be switching to carburation, has anyone gone this route? | ||
| Airborne |
Stoner, I don't fore see any problems with the stock fuel injectors handling the new heads. The Power Commander is programmable to adjust the fuel curve through the RPM range. Changing the variables on the Power Commander should eliminate any problems. | ||
| Blake |
Stoner: Ported T-Storm heads without different pistons? Don't sound very good to me. Compression ratio would drop wouldn't it? | ||
| Johnsachs |
Stoner, We're working on a larger throttle body/injector now,and hope to have it finalized in about 2 mos.Testing results on a twin cam motor is real impressive. P.S.Your buddies motor should make good power,Ron Hamp does some of the best heads in the business. | ||
| Captlusk |
Carb question time again! I've got a 98 S-3 which has a Vance & Hines pipe. The carb was apparently rejetted by the prior owner (airscrew drilled out and all that). While dealing with a stuck enricher problem I looked at the jet and could see no number. Anyway, I replaced the stock airbox with an S&S air cleaner and routed the breather hose outside the aircleaner. Now I realize the bike is probably running lean now with the aircleaner change, my question is this...The carb now pops from time to time when I'm riding and sometimes when at idle. It's not consistant and it's not alot. Is this symtom indicative of the lean condition or somthing else? Any comment would be greatly appreciated. Thanks... | ||
| Aaron |
If it's the Keihin cough, it's generally fixed with a 45 pilot and 2.5-3 turns out on the idle mixture screw. Some folks use a 48. I can't say for sure that's what's going on, though, diagnosing by web is an inexact science. Also check for intake manifold leaks. Good luck, AW | ||
| Rocketman |
S1 test | ||
| Chuck |
Paul, Aaron is right . . . Most "popping" is generally caused by a lean pilot circuit. But, believe it or not, a leaky exhaust system can sometimes contribute to this annoyance. Suzuki even put out a service bulletin addressing this problem on some of the early 1500 Intruders. I only have a 45 pilot in my M2; but I have the pilot screw at 3 turns out. I also have the V & H slip-on and a better than stock air intake. Mine very rarely "pops" . . . and then only on a very cold day when I use a large amount of "engine - braking" | ||
| Captlusk |
Thanks very much for the imput! It's a place to start. I knew I could count on you guys! | ||
| M2nigel |
Do you lose much if any power running a force filter system compared to standard when the only other mods are muffler and module | ||
| Jeffb |
Does anyone know the flow rate of the stock Buell fuel injectors? I am currently running the stock injectors on my 91", but I wanted to look into other injectors. | ||
| Chuck |
Jeff, fuel injector flow rate depends on the "pulse width" of the signals sent from the ECM. Your bike would probably require major engine mods to relegate the stock fuel injectors to "weak link" status in the over all "system". A POWER COMMANDER can get more flow from your stock injectors . . . or you may get some increase by raising the operating pressure of your "fuel rail". | ||
| Jeffb |
Chuck, Injectors are rated at a "static" flow rate at a given pressure, usually around 43.5 psi, for comparison sake. You are right that the amount of fuel that passes through the injector does depend on pulse width and pressure, but for a given pulse width and pressure some injectors will flow more or less. When major engine mods are made, it may be easier to tune your fuel map if properly sized injectors are used from the start. In other words, the Power Commander will have to fire the stock sized injectors open longer than it would a larger injector. My engine is a S&S 4" bore, 3-5/8 stroke, 91" with 11.6:1 compression and N9 cams. This is a very different combination than stock. I am running a Power Commander with the heated O2 sensor and my initial tuning using a second wide band Lamda sensor has made me add 30-40% more fuel than the stock calibration. Because the pressure regulator is internal, it is somewhat difficult to find/add a adjustable pressure regulator to increase fuel pressure. For these reasons, I was looking into installing larger injectors, but was wondering what the approximate rated flow rate was of the stock injectors. Thanks Jeff Bailey | ||
| Airborne |
Jeffb, I have two questions for ya. 1. What was your reason for using the heated O2 sensor? 2. What is the make and model of the O2 sensor? I'm interested in switching over to a heated O2 sensor. I have a theory (just a theory) that a heated O2 sensor will help smooth out the throttle response and crappy running below 3000 rpm. What is your opinion on my theory? I don't have a Lamda sensor sitting around my garage. Make that three questions. Thanks man, | ||
| Chuck |
Jeff, you "sound" smarter than I am; but I will try to find the answer to your question, tomorrow. | ||
| Jeffb |
Chuck, I just re-read my post, I think I came off a little snappy. Sorry about that. Airborne, I am using a Ford PN F1SZ-9F472-A. This is the same as the sensor that DynoJet sells for the PowerCommander. Because I am running the PC, it has the wiring set up for this sensor. Your theory is the same as mine as far as switching to the heated sensor. I have never ran one on a stock bike though. It wouldn't be hard to do though. On a three wire sensor, two of the wires (both white?)are for the resistive heater so polarity doesn't matter and the third wire is the signal (black?). So hook the two heater wires to your battery that is conveniently located right by the exhaust and connect the signal to the stock harness and see what happens. The voltage signal (.45 V) out of the sensor is small so try to add as little resistance as possible. If it works wire the 12 heater to key on power somewhere and your are set. If it doesn't work, chalk it up in the name of science and find something else to tinker with. | ||
| Jeffb |
Here is a good link for O2 sensor info. Check it out. http://www.engr.ucdavis.edu/~avsmith/o2sensor.html | ||
| Airborne |
Thanks Jeffb, I'll be getting the Power Commander soon. | ||
| Bigblock |
Jeff B., Try B.C. Gerolomy for a higher pressure regulator, he will also bore your injectors for you. 916-638-9008. Something else that may interest you, if you look on the quick board here, you'll see a pic of a twin injector set-up under development right now by my buddy Mike at streetwise 415-883-8808.Well, all the best in your quest fo mo power! Ray | ||
| Chuck |
Jeff, that's cool: I ALWAYS "come off a little snappy"  | ||
| Bigblock |
Jeff, I was wondering how you were handling the ignition on your bike, it seems to me that with big inch and over 11/1 comp, you would need to run a hell of a lot less timing than the F.I. computer is gonna give you, seeing as the PC only tweaks fuel, or have you found a way around this? I've been working on a 88" sportster with some seriously flowed STD heads and huge redshift cams, and it likes 28 degrees total timing, 2 deg off will lose 10% horsepower on the dyno, seems like you might melt that thing using stock Buell timing specs, but what the heck do I know? Well, food for thought, anyway... Ray | ||
| Jeffb |
Timing is my nemesis. My control of it sucks. From what I have seen, 28 deg is a good number for a lot (not quite all) HD's. That is where I am at too. 2 deg. adv. and it detonates like crazy. 2 deg. ret. and I loose HP. So 28 it is. I think that this is a little past stock. I have never measured the timing at stock settings. The only way I have to control timing is by moving the cam position sensor. This is probably not a good thing because it messes will the injection timing was well, but from what I have seen, small differences in injection timing doesn't effect Hp. So far I am at 107.2 HP @ 6500 and 98.8 ft. lbs @ 5000. These numbers are SAE corrected on a DynoJet. The heads are off the shelf S&S so there is some more HP in the heads and I have some neat induction parts in the works. I also have a Race ECU that I am going to try to see if more rpm will do anything. I am running a SuperTrapp IDS with 16 disks and an open end cap, the stock throttle body and manifold (modified to match up with the larger S&S intake ports). | ||
| Bigblock |
Sounds like a pretty darn healthy motor! I'm surprised you're able to get 28 deg without messing up the injectors, is that w/voes disconnected? | ||
| Roadhawgs |
Went to my dealer to get the N65C needle for my '01 M2. I had the part number listed here (27094-98) and the closest he could find was a 27099-88 which is a N65D (as marked on the needle). What are the differences between the C and the D? Is the part number listed here correct for the C? Thanks | ||
| Aaron |
That part number is in error ... it's 27094-88 ... try that one instead AW |
