| Author | Message | ||
     Italialaw |
I looked at nightrider.com for cv carb tuning. What a great source. I have two questions. First, won't going up "10 larger" on the main jet result in a condition that is too rich? I have not taken the carb out yet, but I'm guessing it's the stock 200 (98 s3). Second, what's the best "universal" carb tuning for the following mods: -new supertrapp with 12 discs and open-end cap -s&s air cleaner Thanks! | ||
| Bluzm2 |
Chris, Start with a 190 main and a 45 pilot. Unplug the low speed screw and set it at 2 1/4 - 2 1/2 turns. There is a link somewhere around here that outlines the process in detail. Unfortunately I can't find it. It might be over on the ATC board. Anyone remember where it is? Brad | ||
| Italialaw |
Hello All, I took the stock air cleaner off the bike and got the carb off (easy to do!), but I have a question. In my manual it states to disconnect the throttle cables at the carb. How do you do this? Or should I leave them connected and work on the carb in at's "attached state." Whatever is easiest and most effective is the way I want to go--if the throttle cables are a pain to install back on the carb I'd rather work on it when it's attached. Thanks! | ||
| Reepicheep |
I removed the cables just to drill out the plug over the mixture screw, but in hindsight I don't think it was necessary. Its soft aluminum, and just a pressed in plug. Drill a small hole, put a sharp screw a couple turns into it (I used a deck screw) and yank it out. It all could have easily been done on bike. Don't know if changing the needle requires removal or not, I left my stock needle alone. The cables as I recall are like the clutch cable, it has a lead slug pressed on one end, that seats in a socket. If you have enough slack in the cable, you can move the slug out enough to remove it from the seat... if that makes any sense. Just get lots of slack in the cable, all the way at the end where it hooks to the carb, and it should be obvious how to remove it. Make sure you get the seals on tight when you put it back together. If they are sucking air you will be running way lean and could burn up expensive metal bits. | ||
| Djkaplan |
I can't remember the exact procedure to get the cables off the carb, but I remember it was much easier to do when I screwed the slack adjusters (at the throttle) all the way in. This gave the cables enough play to work with. Be careful buttoning everything up. | ||
| Andys |
Correct, backoff all cable adjustments and the cables will then come off. But...And keep this in mind.... When you reinstall the cables you MUST adjust the cables so that there is virually no throttle movement at the grip. I don't which model year you have, but on earlier Buells if you leave too much slack in the throttle cables they can come out of their holders on the carb and hold the throttle open--which causes some interesting things to happen. A guy died years ago from this problem and I have "indoor riding" experience from this situation. The cables can pop out when you blip the throttle to downshift. Please make sure there is very little slack in your cable adjustments when done. Thanks. | ||
| Shotgun |
You do not need to remove the cables to work on the carb. I/ve had mine off dozens of times and never removed them for drilling or rejetting or new needles or replacing the accelerator pump or working on the float. | ||
| Marks3tbillet |
My 2000 S3T sometimes pops through the intake, like a CV40 carb does on a stock carb.(lean) It mostly does it if you rev it quickly in neutral or sometimes under light load. Any suggestions? | ||
| Ocbueller |
Mark, Also have the racekit on my X1 and I have always gotten the occasional hiccup thru the intake. I don't think it's at all unusual for the F.I. bikes. Other than being a little embarassing around other branded bikes it's not too bad. SteveH | ||
| Italialaw |
Hello all, Thank you all for your "jetting" help (see earlier posts). This past weekend, I made the following mods to my CV carb: 45 slow, 190 main, idle mixture out 2.5 turns, no shims. I took it around the block today to test it out (without the air cleaner) and the throttle responded well, and no coughing. One question though. When I would rev the throttle a light mist would emit from the carb . I don't know the name of the part it was emitting from but it's the fat needle lookin' thing that jumps up when you turn the throttle (vacuum slide???). Is this normal? Thanks! | ||
| Bomber |
law . . .perfectly normal . . .. . . almost all carbs do that to one degree or another . . . .. | ||
| Italialaw |
Everyone, Thanks for the help. My jetting was good and I was able to get that S&S air cleaner mounted (pain in the butt, for me at least). Afterwords, I took the bike out for a spin and it ran great until I got close to my garage. It was popping from the exhaust. I took the air cleaner off and checked the bottom of the carb and what do ya know, I lost my idle mixture screw!!!!!!!!!! I must have seated it too gently. I tried calling dealerships but they don't have the part unless they get it off of another cv carb. Does anyone have an extra idle mixture screw, spring, washer and o-ring ? I may just order the aftermarket from cycle direct. If I go that route, about what size are the spring, washer and o-ring? Also, I looked up from the bottom and saw a needle type object. What is that? Thank you, your help is greatly appreciated! | ||
| Pangalactic |
Here's why we don't use clear poly fuel lines...   In case you were wondering, no I didn't do it...it was like that when I bought it. The deepest gouge, in the first pic, had less than 1 mil left before rupture...  | ||
| Bomber |
Alw the spring and o-ring come with the mixture screw . . . .. I've been running one of their manually-adjustable screws for a couple of years now, and love it (so much easier to adjust!) as for the needle thingie, I'm not sure what you mean, or where you're looking, for sure . . . . . | ||
| Italialaw |
How much play should the remote idle adjuster have? My adjuster only turns about a half turn each way. Is there any trick to it? It seems like it should turn more than a half turn each way. Thanks! | ||
| Bomber |
Law my comments pertain to my 2000 M2 -- I've got a couple of turns in each direction on my remote idle adjuster . .. . however, once, when the carb was all gunked up and not cleaned for a long time by my cleaning staff (!), the travel was greatly reduced. clean up the linkage, the area where the adjuster sthreads, and area where the adjuster hits the linkage . . . .. ditto if it's tiewrapped to the frame too tight (wich I knew where to source replacements for the cute little tie wrap that shipped with the bike | ||
| Road_thing |
Bomber--I recommend that you deal harshly with your cleaning staff! r-t | ||
| Bomber |
thang -- damnbetcha, those bastids havn't cut the lawn yet, either . . . . . hard to find good help, ain't it? | ||
| Lake_bueller |
Mikuni Troubles...... My Mikuni carb seems to be "sticking". When I open the throttle, the slide closes but the cables don't return to the "closed" position. Has anyone had a similar problem? Does anyone know how to fix? Thanks!!! | ||
| Sidewalk |
I am having a surge problem with my bike. It seems to start after it has warmed up some (typically). It will surge and pop through the intake as if it was running lean. No amount of throttle will effect it. I had the throttle railed the other day when it did it, oops, was in first when she woke up again... From what I have read, it sounds like it could be a bad engine temp sensor. What size socket is that thing anyway (I know it is supposed to be slotted). But, I am not getting any codes at all. It typically lasts about 30 seconds to a minute, and then goes away not to return for another day. I have been lucky that it hasn't happened on my rides in the hills. I decided not to take a ride yesterday because of that (at work today). It didn't act up on my ride to work today (5 miles), but it has before on that short ride. Speed has no effect, she has done it on the freeway, and when going 25 MPH. It started a few hundred miles after installing the race ECM (I don't think it is related). Don at Modesto zero'd the TPS, so I am not worried about that either. This is my daily trasnportation, so I am limited on how long I can just park it to troubleshoot, I am riding it how it is for now. I really don't want to change out sensors at random. My troubleshooting efforts on my EFI truck have allowed me to only ever have to change one sensor, and that was an O2 sensor with about 150,000 miles on it. Bike has about 15,000 miles, '00 X1, Race ECM, Forcewinder, V&H pipe. And I ride her like a sport bike (wussy stoppies, pathetic wheelies, lots of WOT, lots of brakes, no chicken strips, etc). http://www.sidewlk.homestead.com/page2.html | ||
| Firemanjim |
Lake,is it the carb,the cables,or the twist throttle itself?You need to isolate the problem.Disconnect cables and see if it still does it.Lube cables and check for kinks.Lube twist throttle sleeve and check for free movement.Sometimes the slide in the carb gets gummed up and needs to be cleaned with carb cleaner,and a little lube might help,too.1 step at a time. | ||
| Firemanjim |
Anyone retrofitted the Buell FI to an earlier model carbed Buell.I would love to FI my turbo bike.I already have an electric fuel pump and pressure regulator for the turbo. | ||
| Lake_bueller |
Thanks Jim....It's definately the carb. The cables are clean, free of kinks and well lubed. I'll try some carb cleaner in the slide. That seems like the most probable cause. | ||
| Italialaw |
Hello all, Will it damage the bike to take a 10-15 mile test drive without an aircleaner on the bike? Thanks | ||
| Ocbueller |
Italialaw, Your fine unless your bike ingests anything more solid than a grasshopper(i.e. gravel). SteveH | ||
| 2rangerted |
got a problem.I installed a V&H SS2R muffler on my 99 X-1,now,even with the factory muffler on it,it sputters and cuts out between 2400-2900 RPM when accelerating hard.It bogs down and acts like it's going to die,then it really takes off.It also surges when going really slow.I've replaced the spark plugs,the wires, the fuel filter and changed the oil..all had no effect.Did I blow the O2 sensor?Or is something serious wrong?I am going to take it to the dealer just to get it ready for riding season,but I'd like to avoid shop times for this problem.Any ideas?Thanks in advance. | ||
| 99x1 |
The X1 runs closed loop (using the O2 sensor) between 2500 and 3500 rpm - the map is then modified based on this outside that range. (AFV - adaptive fuel value). You may have to re-train the computer: "The AFV will be learned when the bike is operated at engine speeds between 2500 and 3500 rpm at road speeds in the 40 to 60 mph range under a steady light load (no down grades or steep upgrades, decelerating or accelerating) for 2 to 3 minutes." Some early units could also get the AFV so far out, it has to be reset by the dealer. Good description at DDFI | ||
| 2rangerted |
cool,I guess I'm going for a ride then!!Thanks | ||
| Jon6516 |
Anyone retrofitted the Buell FI to an earlier model carbed Buell.I would love to FI my turbo bike.I already have an electric fuel pump and pressure regulator for the turbo. -------------------------------------------------- Jim, you really do want to go fast. First the 114” and now I see you asking about a turbo / fuelie. As for your question on using a closed loop system. I don’t see a problem. You will spend more time on a laptop mapping the fuel curve. I personally would run a little richer than norm. Keep that O2 sensor and keep as close to where you find it on the stock pipe. Hey Try “Mr. Turbo”, they have to have some experience with FI. | ||
| Pnut |
Mikuni help I put a mikuni on my M2, force winder with race kit exhaust, and race module. Does any one have this set up or similar and lend me some advice on your jetting. I would like to get a close starting point. Thanks. |
