| Author | Message | ||
     Mikej |
Thanks for the shopping list Court. My plan is in my best Tim Allen voice "More Power" URrrgh Urrgh Urrrgh. Do you think one length of #12 is enough to handle things, or should I run multiple lengths up front (which I guess is what the protector is for)? I was thinking of running a +/- pair of #8 wire, but didn't know if it would hold up to the flexing of the fork steering. It's about time I did this, I've only been putting it off since last summer. | ||
| Dougp |
Yet another option for the battery-needing S1 owner's. Yes the Odyssey is everything it's stated to be. However, personally I never warmed up to the red color. And in my never-ending pursuit of alternatives, I found that Hawker Energy (yes, the original manufacturer of the S1 battery) makes the Odyssey. In their "Genesis" line of batteries they make an exact duplicate of the Odyssey PC545MJ, only in black. Model G13EP. Exact same specs. And the real kick in the 'nads is it retails for $69. A far cry from the $125. Odyssey. Doug P.  | ||
| Court |
MikeJ: Frankly, I picked up a piece of #10 SO or SJO cord....same stuff I used for football field lighting from junction box to the fixture. Wxproof, super-flexible, durable and looks cool in the orange I got it in. Run down to your local Ace is the place...any problem, let me know and I'll fire you off a 5' chunk. With a Buell or KLR you'll overload the bike's system long before you exceed #10 ampacity. BMW...an entirely different story and I may have to run 1192MCM ACSR/SD.....hehehe | ||
| Rocketman |
Doug : I didn't realise since we last had this subject up, that you had gone to so much trouble. I could be interested, next time around maybe, in returning to a black battery. What would sway it for me would be if your "Genesis" find is an exact copy of the S1 original. By this I mean it will fit in to the tray without cutting off the front lip  . I could also ask, are the terminals at one end, ala the original, or at opposites as in the new designs ? Enquiring minds need to know  ! Like I said, if the Genesis fits in the tray, I could be a black battery kinda guy once again. Rocket in England | ||
| Airborne |
Mikej, So far you've gotten some good advice from other people but you might want to consider the part that supplies all the juice for your heavy amperage stuff being able to handle the current load needed for the lights and suit. I'm talking about the stator. If you are running 100watt bulbs then probably around a 100watt suit then aux lights around 40watts a piece I'm figuring around 280watts needed run everything. I would suggest an after market heavy duty stator that will handle your wattage requirements. | ||
| Dougp |
Rocket, call me "tenacious D". I'm sorry to say the Genesis G13EP is not a match for the original battery. It shares the terminal location of the Odyssey, and is slightly smaller. Not small enough to fit inside the tray, but fit right at the edge of the tray. Honestly the closest thing I could find. though some of our components may be gone for good, the S1 will live FOREVER!!! Doug P. tenacious D  | ||
| Mikej |
Okay, electronics is one of my many weak points. According to my service manual, I've got available: Alternator: AC voltage output = 19-26 VAC per 1000 engine RPM Stator coil resistance = 0.2-0.4 Ohms Regulator: Voltage output @ 75°F = 13.8-15 VDC Amperes @ 3600 RPM = 22 Amps Stock components: Headlight: 60/55 Watts, 5.0/4.58 Amps Tail/Stop lamp: 5/21 Watts, 0.42/1.75 Amps Turn signal lamp, fr & rr: 10 Watts, 0.83 Amps High beam indicator: 2.1 Watts, 0.15 Amps Turn sig. indicator: 2.1 Watts, 0.15 Amps Oil pres. indicator: 2.1 Watts, 0.15 Amps Neutral indicator: 2.1 Watts, 0.15 Amps Speedo illumination: 1.7 Watts, 0.14 Amps Tach illumination: 1.7? Watts, 0.14? Amps ========================================= Grand total, if I added right, sitting at an intersection in neutral with my brake light on, turn signal flashing, high beam on, engine low on oil so the oil light is on, I come up with a max. stock power drain of ....... 107.8 Watts, 8.88 Amps (huh?) So, does that mean that 22 Amps - 8.88 Amps = 13.12 Amps left over? I figure there has to be some draw to power the coils to fire the plugs, but I don't know how to convert 2.5-3.1 ohms primary coil windings into Watts, or do I use the secondary windings 10,000-12,500 ohms? In layman's terms, how much juice do I got left at 3,600 RPM's best or worst case in stock electrical configuration? I'm not about to try and think of power loss per wire length, but know that figures in there somewhere. Airborne, it looks like I've got less than half the juice I'll need. Bummer. Maybe I can add a couple of bicycle light generators to the swing arm and let them get spun by the back tire. Do I really want to do this? Maybe I'll just ride in the summer during the day and during dry weather....... NAH!!! Time to go back to the bike shop and price some stuff. Bummer. | ||
| Hans |
Mikej, From long ago I remember that ignition uses about 26 Watts. Hans | ||
| Loki |
Court, With wire that big, are you planning on powering up an apartment building using the Buell as a back-up generator? loki electricians I tell you - wait a minute I am one also...... | ||
| Hoser |
Mike: Ohm's law does not apply to inductive devices. I can try to find the info you need at work , or Aaron may know , he's an electrical engineer isn't he ? . Hoser | ||
| Fastback69 |
I finally got my tach parts yesterday and got it installed. Thanks for the instructions Loki, especially the pin-out for the wires. It looks great and it's nice to have a reference to engine speed. | ||
| Aaron |
Oh man, I really don't want to get into this ... to do it justice I'd have to write more than I have time to write ... now I know how Ron feels ... In a nutshell, yes, it's inductive, which means it will initially resist the flow of current when the ignition module grounds the - side, and then gradually lower it's resistance, eventually stabilizing at a point where George Simon's law applies again. But during that transition stage, calculating what the current flow at any given point in time or what the average is over a range of time is not as simple. You'd need to know the inductance of the coil, the resistance of the circuit, the shape of the signal applied, and the dwell time and how it may change with rpm. A square wave, assuming that's what the module provides, is essentially infinite frequency transitions interspersed with DC. The coil will start out as basically an open circuit, and then allow current flow that follows a curve shape, per the inductance and resistance and voltage applied. You're hitting on the distinction between "resistance" and "impedance" ... impedance just means it's resistance changes depending on the frequency & shape of the signal applied. AW | ||
| Mikej |
And we now know why I never tried to become an EE. So, anyway, in layman's terms, do I need a bigger more powerfull stator, and is one #12-#8 wire for power plus an equal sized wire for ground enough? My planned eventual additions to the bike will be: 1. Upping headlight to a brighter bulb (don't know wattage yet, probably the Tat-bulb) 2. Powering up the two driving mini-lamps (I think they are 60W each, but will have to check later) 3. Connector for the radar detector 4. Electric vest setup (I believe it will probably be around 100W max draw/drain, but I doubt I'll ever crank it up full) 5. Some sort of radio/speaker setup (CB, HAM, SW, weather radio) not used except as needed.(Probably have all this stuff stuffed into the tank bag with just a pigtail wire sticking out heading up to the dash plate.) 6. Extra LED tail light indicators (aka: "Backoff lights") I probably won't run everything all at once. I might add a low-slung flat-beam fog light set-up, and may try to figure out a way to kill the headlight when the foglight is in use. Right now I'm just figuring out details, and will add things as I get them. Initially I just want to run the cable/wire and set up a junction box to tie things into, and also ensure I don't end up juiceless on some dark deserted road someplace if I end up riding on a cold dark rainy foggy night. I'm thinking of using relays, maybe circuit breakers, and fuses. The bike won't be some garbage-barge light brigade when I'm finished, probably won't even be readily obvious when a non-Bueller walks by the bike, but if I pull onto the Salt Flats at 11pm I do want to see where I'm going. Thanks for all the comments so far. Hopefully this will help others as well. MikeJ (gettin' electrifiddled) | ||
| Sparky |
Re: Heavy duty stators, Harley has a 32 amp stator, I believe, as an option for Big Twins. Will this bolt right in our Sporty type motors or is there a factory high capacity stator & regulator available for them? BTW, an Aerostich electric vest draws 45W and their electric liner is 90W. I use an Eclipse vest that's probably closer to 90W 'cause it gets HOT compared to my wife's Aero vest. More importantly, I was fortunate to find a friend who used to build thermostats with a voltsensor that interrupts the vest if the battery drops below 12V. If you can find one, that's a good thing to have when idling around town or if you're forgetful. With that in mind, a voltsensor device might be ideal to use in series with a relay powering auxiliary lights for instance. Has anyone done this? Sparky | ||
| Jmartz |
Mikej: P=IV, so at 3600 rpm -> P=264=22 x 12 ... This means that you standard draw is 100 or so Watt so you have left 150+ to run other accessories and the coil. You'd be cutting close with with Sparky's numbers. Jose | ||
| Loki |
Fastback, Glad to be of assistance, the tach makes a big diff does it not? loki | ||
| Court |
MikeJ: Do not feel alone. I am a LIGHT FREAK. My F-250 has Whelan wingtip strobes in all the external lens, Gall's backoff tailight/reverse light modualtors, headlight wig-wags. Inside, on the radio stack, there are red aviation style cockpit lamps on flexible stalks. I've done the same deal to the KLR and Buells. Co-pilot lamp on gooseneck, etc. I am a confirmed gadget freak. I have recently had the www.cellset.com folks (aviation guys near Wichita, KS) do a couple Arai helmets for me. I like having my music, radar detector, phone, CB and comm there when I want it. Were it not for the lack of power, the bike would have a 100w UHF Motorola Mara-Trac hidden away. For now, we settle for a Maxar 50. MORE POWER, MORE CRUD ! Go get'em ! Court | ||
| Bomber |
Court . . .where'dja get the gooseneck aircraft-style lamps . . . . .I need a couple! thanks | ||
| Buellistic |
ATT: FROM UNDERNEITH THE SHADE TREE ie: SWITCH,brake lever P/N71776-96Y This is the front brake lite switch. Swith has two holes in it to let dirt and water in. Spray ito these two holes CRC or RADIO SHACK equivalent of QD Electronic Cleaner and the switch will work like a new one( saves you $50 or more). In buelling BUELLISTIC and/or Hardley-Harley | ||
| Fastback69 |
I have thought of adding small-ish red and orange indicator lights to the side of my bike. I would attach them so that they would be visible from the side only. Their purpose would be to augment the reflective side panels which need an outside light source to work (hence the term RE-flective). There are some individuals here that do not find it necessary to use headlights at night in the city, so the active position marker lights would (I think) work better to define position and heading. | ||
| Court |
Bomber: Go to www.galls.com. Search "co pilot light" Get the "Little Lite" with the red filter and the rheostat. Let me know if you need pictures. Court | ||
| Bomber |
Court . . pictures always good for 60s burn-outs, but the url and instructions should do it thanks rosberg ps . . .kinda reminds me of the text sign I saw at a burger joint . . . . . ."Picture Menu Available". go figure | ||
| S2no1 |
Court, What system are you using in the helmet for earphones and microphones? Arvel | ||
| Court |
Arvel: I am using J&M full coverage helmet get up. I have about 4 old the old ones and one of the new "latest & greatest". The jury is still out. I have not been impressed yet and there MUST be a better way to do helmet audio. I invested nearly $2K in the J&M audio-pack for the S-2. I have every "cockpit communicator" from the Collett Communicator 900mHz to tin cans. To date the best of the best, well...just suck less. When it comes to motorcycle audio you are dealing with the best of the worst. More to follow, I intend to fight back. Court | ||
| Ralph |
That's just like you Court. I just shove a CD player into the inner pocket of my jacket. You change "We Shall Overcome" into "We Shall Overdo". But, that's why we love ya. bighairyralph | ||
| Sparky |
Court, I think I know what you're getting at. I've put J&M speakers in my Arai with mixed results too. The setup sounds great at home in the living room but on the road at speed traffic and wind noise produces a deafening roar that kills the otherwise wonderful sounds. Part of the problem's gotta be lack of sealing the ears/speakers from the environment. The other problem is the speakers press lightly against the ears. This distorts the outside noise and the light pressure eventually causes pain. What to do? I've looked at cheap & expensive headphones at a music store. The cheap ones press against the ear, so they're no better'n what I got. The expensive ones seal the ear completely with a soft cushion and the speaker is off the ear. This looks promising but I don't know, they look pretty big to fit inside a helmet. And I'm not sure they'd be effective in sealing out road roar. So the question is, would this work? Sparky | ||
| Ralph |
Sparky, I'm using ear buds. They help seal the wind noise, some. I've been thinking about having them cast into ear plugs. That way the wind will be sealed out completly and I won't have to turn the sound up so high. bighairyralph | ||
| Bomber |
I'm using some Kenwood earbuds from Aerostich . . . soft rubber selas into the ear, cutting down the wind road almost as much as regular ear-plug . . .decent sound quality . . . . .I use em fr rides of an hour or more . . . . .short rides/commutes I use the Bass Monster speakers from the same source | ||
| Loki |
All, here is an idea that works for helping wind noise to a degree. Try a NOJ (?) they make three different versions for sealing your helmet around your neck. I have used the basic version for the past five years. For just a piece of lycra it really works. It will cover the area from the chin bar to 3/4 the way around your neck. An added bonus, it improves the effectiveness of your helmet venting system. loki | ||
| Bored |
Loki, I've seen those NOJ Quiet Rider things in Dennis Kirk. I've always wondered... how do they attach to the helmet? |
