| Author | Message | ||
     Firemanjim |
VOES has a ground wire and a wire from wiring harness near coil with a slide connector.Might have to search for it.The vacuum hose goes to carb.I don't have my manual handy here at work.Also,I believe dyna 2000 ignitions have a VOES setting switch and maybe a wire that goes to VOES,again,if my memory is working.It is not really necessary from a performance standpoint,it works to advance your timing under part throttle for better mileage.Do you have the manual??? | ||
| Lugginjugs |
Opto- dealer said that to make harness they would need to use their crimper. No other crimper would do. The tool is said to be too expensive to purchase ($300 for a crimper? I'll resign my commission). I believe the tool might be out of sight to buy for such a limited application but looking at installing the pins etc. it doesn't look like anything special is required. I was wondering specifically how the assembly of the harness goes. It looks like 1. thread wire through gasket, 2. crimp wire to pin or socket, and 3. reassemble pins or sockets in housing. If there is more to this I need to know. | ||
| Jsunstar |
i have a manual but it is pretty vague about the connection spot or even what the plug looks like... from what i get, the voes should advance the ignition to keep up with the motor. in a hard accelerating situation, that would be a big help. i was told that when i select the more aggressive curves on the dyna 2000 ignition, the voes will advance the timing to that curve as the bike accelerates... am i close or way off here? anyone know if the same year sportster voes is the same as the s2? the dealer said it was but these guys are buell holdouts (they "tried" one or two for about a year before deciding no one was buying them and nixed the whole line) and dont know buell very well... | ||
| Firemanjim |
If you have to just pull gas tank and look at wiring harness.Right near coil there will be one wire hanging out of the harness with a flat type connector--only wire like it,and should be only one disconnected,your manual should show it and probably what color it is.If you are not in a hurry,I have my S-2 apart in the barn and replaced the entire harness yesterday,so all of it is still exposed.I will look after I get off here(unless I get sent to San Diego/LA for fires) | ||
| Noface |
jason, The VOES switch actually retards the timing. When you are just cruising around, the vacum in the carb venturi is high, which opens the contacts on the switch. When you then wack the throttle to do a roll on or such, the vacum in the venturi in the carb drops, the VOES contact closes, grounding the ignition "input" wire to the ignition module, which causes the ignition module to switch to the slower or "lazier" ignition curve (retarded). As the bike builds rpm and speed holding the throttle open, vacum builds back up, the switch then opens and you are "switched" back onto the "fast" or "cruise" ignition curve (the curve that you have the Dyna set for). Of course this all happens a whole lot faster than you can read the paragraph. Look in the documentation for the dyna module, and it should detail the curve settings for the selected switch setting on the module. One side of the VOES switch goes to ground, the other side of the switch should go to the Dyna modules' "VOES" wire. Find a place to mount it, and your done. You don't need any special tools. A good soldering iron, some shrink wrap, or some sta-con's should do nicely. HTH, Jody S. | ||
| Aaron |
Jody ... high vacuum = switch closed = VOES input to module grounded = more timing advance. Low vacuum = switch open = VOES input to module floating = normal curve. They designed it this way to be fail-safe ... should the switch fail or wire come off or hose come off, you're in the normal curve. | ||
| Noface |
then I had is bass askwards then...? Been awhile since I messed w/one. that's about usual for me! LOL! my bad I guess. Thanks for clearing it up. Jody | ||
| Sparky |
TORQUEMASTER LIVES! The original owner/inventor of these patented spark plugs has retired and turned over the business to Extreme Spark. I rode by the old place in El Segundo and there was a sign posted with the new owner's website. So you can still buy the same Torque Master spark plugs for your Buell but from a new company now. Cheers for American ingenuity!  Sparky | ||
| Tgroghan |
Does anyone have knowledge of a High-Output alternator for the Buells? Would the 38amp alternator of the XB fit onto a Thunderbolt engine? | ||
| Dcowan666 |
I have a '96 S1 I bought used. The ignition module has the numbers 9620 and NO306.9 printed on it. Is this the stock module? | ||
| Rick_a |
If it isn't stock it's usually obvious...most aftermarket units are usually prominently marked with the manufacturer or type. | ||
| Dcowan666 |
I was wondering if it might be the race kit ignition. I have seen those modules w/ #9625 printed on them. | ||
| Lugginjugs |
I was doing my 5000 mile timing this weekend and ran into a problem. While doing the static timing portion per the manual I got the 5 VDC to register but when moving the cam position sensor around the voltage never fluctuated. The ignition was on and kickstand was up -- but was the engine on run? I may have to go back. | ||
| Tdshepard |
I just bought a California model 1997 M2 cyclone. I passed Arizona emisssions and now want to make it run right. I believe the charcoal cannister on the gas tank vent is the only CARB piece on the bike. The jets will have to be increased in size of course but what is the deal with timing a California bike at higher RPM? Is that just so there is less total advance.....and can I time it like a 49 state bike?? | ||
| Cu_chulann |
Can anybody tell me what the ignition timing should be set to when a race kit E.C.U. has been installed on the bike.I have a 01 model year X1.I presume the normal timing mark on the flywheel is no longer the correct setting.Thanks in advance. | ||
| Bomber |
I believe the timing should be the same, sir . . . . the ECU allows for diffrerent breathing due to intake/exhaust changes, and may affect the rev limiter, but the baseline timing should be the same | ||
| Cu_chulann |
Bomber. Thanks for your input.Any information on set up is appreciated.I am getting good results above 3,000 rpm.Below that however the engine runs a bit lumpy. | ||
| Bomber |
Cu . . .. although I have an M2 (cuz I understand carbs better than blackbooxes {grin}), I suggest that the lumpiness may likely be reduced through installation of a less-restrictive exhaust can and air filter . . .. . lots of good advice on both topics on this board, and, also, the X1 Files, which is a great compendium of X1 data . . . | ||
| Jrh |
Does anyone with an S1W have a Crane Hi4E installed and know offhand what number of advance curve they're using on the dip-switch,so i might be in the ballpark? I know from Aaron's charts the ignition won't really give me any extra power at the stage my engine is at,but i have one laying around,and i might put it on. Thanks | ||
| Rocketman |
Jrh, I'm running HI4E s\f. If I get chance to look tomoz I'll post what mine's set to, otherwise it'll be Monday. Sorry but big Buell 10 miles away from my puter!! Rocket | ||
| Jrh |
Rocket,that would be Great!It's still snowing here so no rush.Believe it or not,you're just the guy i was hoping to see my question,as i've read you have that ignition. THANKS | ||
| Rocketman |
Jrh, soz mate, I got caught up in a storm (my own fault) and forgot, but only until now!!! Crane HI4E model 8 - 3101 Mode 1 single fire Mode 2 oem w\voes ON Mode 3 elec start ON Mode 4 single spark ON RPM limit 7000 Advance Slope 4 Rear Cyl -1 Hope this helps and sorry I forgot to do it sooner. Rocket | ||
| Jrh |
Excellent!Thanks much Rocket! | ||
| Fullpower |
repeat of earlier Question: will the 3 phase alternator stator (from XB) retro fit to the older tuber/ sportster engines? i realize the later regulator will be required. thanks, dean | ||
| Valez |
I have a small problem when I push the starter button on my 98' S1. The first time the solenoid just makes a "klick", and then nothing more happens. The second time the engine starts. | ||
| Road_thing |
Valez--is it the solenoid or the relay that clicks? I've replaced a couple of relays on my S1, and recently discovered that they are repairable. I can post pics of the repair if you'd like to see them. r-t | ||
| Ocbueller |
Valez, With the original battery my S1 has always started as you describe. Even in 97 the first time the salesman started it for my test drive. After replacing the battery with the newer style retrofit kit from the factory, the bike has been easier to start. Are you still on the original battery? Also at temps below 45 or so both my S1 and X1 are a little slow to turn over. I will usually boost the batteries a little before trying to start if they have been sitting in the cold for more than a couple of weeks. SteveH | ||
| Valez |
SteveH, my battery is the newer replacement kit, and is not more than a few month old. So i guess it's not the battery that causes the problem. R-t, it sounds like the solenoid, but I could be wrong. So I would like to see the pictures that you got. TH | ||
| Road_thing |
TH--I'll post from home later this afternoon, I don't have the pics on my PC at work. r-t | ||
| Road_thing |
OK, TH, here you go:  Here's the starter relay with the cover still on it. You'll find it on the left side of the bike, bolted to the frame just under the seat cowling. You don't need to remove the seat to get at it.  Once you've got it off the bike, pop the cover off by prying back the little plastic tabs that hold it in place.  Once it's opened up, just buff the black crud off the contact points with some fine emery cloth (or a rusty pocket knife, if that's all you have handy!) Snap the cover back on, bolt it back in place and plug in the wires and you should be good to go! ...unless your problem is actually in the solenoid, which is a whole different thing... r-t |
