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Buell Forum » Knowledge Vault (tech, parts, apparel, & accessories topics) » Drivetrain » Clutch: Cable, Adjustment, Basket, Hub, Spring, Plates... » XB series clutch adjustment « Previous Next »

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Greg_e
Posted on Sunday, March 21, 2010 - 09:13 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Following this thread:
http://www.badweatherbikers.com/buell/messages/384 2/280310.html?1269211041

[quote]
All the wear on the plates wear is compensated for when you do the adjustment as long as you follow the procedure in the service manual.

You have to first back the clutch lever freeplay adjuster. That is the cable housing length adjuster located about midway down the cable. Back it off until there is not the slightest load on the cable (the clutch lever is floppy at the bar). If you reach in with your finger, the arm the cable pulls on can be moved all the way to the right (towards the back wheel) as far as it will go.

That way, when you take the adjusting screw down to a touch (CCW) and then back it off 1/4 turn (CW). If you don't slack the cable first, part of the range of travel is "lost" and you can't get the right feel or complete disengagement.

The 1/4 turn CW freeplay adjustment is important because it unloads the throwout bearing. With that adjustment right, there is no load on that bearing except when the lever is pulled in.

With locking nut in place (you can go CW a tiny bit more if necessary to get it to drop in place) and the spring and cover back on, you can adjust the clutch housing length adjuster. Turn that to lengthen the cable housing until all freeplay is out of the cable. Then pull and release the lever a few times to seat the clutch plates. The final adjustment for freeplay is that if you grab the ferrule on the end of the clutch cable, where it enters the clutch perch, and pull on it as hard as you can with two fingers, you want a 1/16" gap where the ferrule meets the perch.

When I had a M2 I used to take 1/2" and 9/16" wrenches with me and finalize the freeplay adjustment along the road after everything was well warmed up. I generally lengthened the cable housing another 1/4 turn or so when I did that.

The holy trinity of getting the shifting and clutch action right, starting with a cold engine, is to do the primary chain freeplay adjustment, back off the clutch lever freeplay and adjust the clutch adjusting screw, and then set the clutch lever freeplay.

Jack[\quote]

I made a video of the adjustment procedure, mine turned out pretty good for the first time I've done it and while only using one hand and looking and the viewfinder of my camera.


If you are reading this shortly after I post, please give youtube time to cook it, might take an hour or so. I'll make the video better after I track down some bettering editing software.

[edit] I have removed this first video ad uploaded a new version.

(Message edited by Greg_E on April 01, 2010)
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Greg_e
Posted on Thursday, April 01, 2010 - 12:04 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Here is the newer version:
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=UpMnccIMSIs
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