| Author | Message | ||
     Captlusk |
What is a good product for cleaning the cylinder fins? I do a lot of riding in the rain. The engine is filthy. Thanks... | ||
| Dougp |
Final installment re: Nuc. blue paint. Deanne from BMC called me with following; Powdercoating is from Classic Coatings ONLY. Touch-up is from Custom-Pak and available in 1/2 oz. bottles ONLY. Seems Custom-Pak color-matched the powdercoating and has no intentions of releasing it in any larger quantities. They are very protective of this color code and will not divulge it. So in other words...Fuggitaboutit!!!!!   | ||
| Paisan |
does anyone know if there is a paint match for 1999 reactor yellow? Harley paint is so expensive. What might that color match up to? please email with any help. bobodean@msn.com | ||
| Paisan |
does anyone know if there is a paint match for 1999 reactor yellow? Harley paint is so expensive. What might that color match up to? please email with any help. bobodean@msn.com | ||
| Ccryder |
Hey Jeff: Since the revival of the "Knowledge Vault" the powers that be have added certain convenient features to the specific areas. At the top of this area is listed the PPG paint codes for most of the Buell colors. Reactor Yellow - DBC 81746 . This is PPG paint and granted it ain't cheap, but it will match and look beautiful. On my 00' X-1 Race Stripe I used the posted PPG paint code and it is perfect. It does take some painting knowledge to prep and apply it correctly for it to look smooth and glossy. | ||
| Djkaplan |
What precautions need to be taken to paint the tank on my 00 M2? Is it just like painting the urethane fascias on automobiles? Do I need to take it to someone who specializes in this kind of thing? I'd like to paint my bike silver, a very bright silver. Any suggestions? | ||
| Slodog |
Does anyone have the code for high voltage yellow. My bodywork has seen better days, and since i'm doing a ground up on the thing.I figured i'd freshen it up. Any help would be appreciated. | ||
| Darren |
The Colour Nuclear Blue is a powder coating done by Classic Coatings as you all know. The actual powder is made of two parts. The Silver Base powder and the Blue powder. As I have been told there is no lacquer coat the blue acts as a gloss. I have found a powder coater in England who showed me a sample I took him my front wheel and the colour was perfect. This company are currently powder coating my Thunder Storm Heads in Nuclear Blue (cool). If anyone's interested email at designt@globalinternet.co.uk and I will give you their telephone number. The company told me that they buy this colour from a Austrian company. | ||
| Darren |
Sorry wrong email for the above message designt@globalnet.co.uk | ||
| Edmanning |
Just wanted to say, be careful of the factory paint. I just had some charcoal and silver metallic flames painted on my tank, "with flip flop tips" to match my wheels and billet. When the clear coat was shot over it a few flaws in the factory paint came through. Most people would never notice it, but look close and.... Take Care, Hillbilly | ||
| Hans |
Darren, I hope you are knowing what you are doing: I thought that those Thunder storm heads are blackened with a special process to irradiate heat better without loosing the heat transfer by convection. Not to look cool but keep them cool. You have ordered powder coating already but you could consider then the most heat resistant oil (synthetic) and even an oil cooler ??. Hans | ||
| Darren |
The general casting and paint finish was so crap I could not leave them untouched. I had to do something? The heads looked like the they had been sprayed badly with standard heat resistant matt black paint, it was chipped and still silver in parts. This is only my opinion but I think it's only cosmetic to identify thunderstorm heads from stock I will be using synthetic oil and a Jagg oil cooler. It never gets hot in England, well only a couple of days a year. I thought Black absorbs heat and white reflects heat? Ps. anyone seen X1 Motor mount on an S1? will it fit? Will it look ok? | ||
| Stoner |
Does anyone know the part numbers for the '99 and up tank lettering, preferably the chrome, or the '01 orange? How much does it cost? | ||
| Dave |
13970-99Y Decal, fuel tank (3D black chrome) (2) DAve | ||
| Stoner |
Thanks Dave. | ||
| Al_Lighton |
Darren, The X1 front mount fits the S1 just fine. Cheap too. I polished mine before I put it on, looks WAY better nice and shiny and without that silly airbox support extension with the CF race air cleaner. Theres an additional hole for picking up the 4th (5th?) heim joint, but it doesn't look out of place not filled. But you MUST have the new install procedure when you unbolt the S1 mount and replace it. There is a specific method to prevent bolt fatigue. I can dig it up if you can't get it from your dealer. Also, when you buy the mount, buy all NEW bolts, washers, and nuts. Don't reuse the old. Al | ||
| Bored |
I have a Molten Orange M2. I started out with another Orange M2 on the ATC ride last fall in the Berkshires. Then we hooked up with a group at East Hampton HD. Now there were four orange bikes. As Arlo sang "And friends, they may think it's a movement." No offense to those with Molten Orange (I still love the color), but one reason I bought the Buell was to be unique. So, now the tax return in on the way, the bike is in pieces, and I'm thinking up ways to spend money. I'm considering a paint job, aftewords putting the 3D decals back on the tank. Has anyone put those decals back on the tank after removing them? Degree of difficulty in decal re-alignment? | ||
| Blake |
Make yourself a template to work kinda like the weave used to hold small ceramic tiles together. But I like the smooth finish like on the old Buells (till it bibbled up that is). I'll one day get my paint guy to stencil and clear coat the emblems. | ||
| H_Man |
What is the best way to repair (more like fill in) small chips in the fly screen and tank? Also, do I need to use anything aside from the color paint to match the rest of the bike (e.g., clear coat or clear coat hardener)? | ||
| Bomber |
all . . . . .lovin my M2 ALOT! the seat is made for 600 mile days (my max so far). But . . . . I'd really like to lighten up the look of the rear half of the bike, while leaving the seat intact. I've considered just trimming the existing body work until it just covers the frame tubes (about 2 inches or so), and was wondering if anyone else has either done something similar, or seen it? any suggestions welcome rosberg | ||
| Mikej |
Somebody on here posted a pic of their S3 where they trimmed back most or all of the underseat bodywork. If they repost the pic it should give you a good idea of what your M2 would look like with it's skirt shortened. I think it was posted way back last Fall, sometime before the salted season began. | ||
| Travis |
Mike, I think you are talking about FrankO's bike. LA Buells Board its the second post. He usually posts over on SacBORG if you need to get a hold of him about it. Trav | ||
| Mikej |
Yep, that's the one, I hoped someone would remember it, Thanks Trav. Rosberg, jump on over there and have a looksee. | ||
| Bomber |
OUTSTANDING! thanks, gents . . . . . . now, where's my die grinder? whhhhhiiiiiirrrrrr rosberg | ||
| Moterhead |
I've got a '98 S3 in the billet color. The frame appears to be a darker shade. Is there a different color code for that or is it just the powder coat looks darker? CW | ||
| Ccryder |
CW: It is real difficult to match the powder coat to conventional painting. | ||
| Dave |
I ordered a "nuke blue" side stand for my S3 and got it in 6 days total!!!! P/N 50094-99YYP for about $36.   DAve |
