| Author | Message | ||
     Bartimus |
they should be. I know they can be sent out to be rebuilt. I've got one that had the reservoir removed. So most of the fluid is out. I've changed the oil in my showa shock on my XR600 many times. I used a light weight oil, about 7wt I believe, and it took about 6 ounces. That is for a dirt bike that is raced though. | ||
| Henrik |
Bartimus; AFAIK the shock needs to be nitrogen pressurized once it's been apart. No idea of how much oil is needed. I'm sure a reputable suspension shop would be able to help. I've always had good luck with Traxxion. I'm sure Marcus can help as well. Henrik | ||
| Sporticus |
My experience contradicts the text at the top of this page regarding shock recall/replacement. Does anyone have any advice or better contact info for me? I have a '97 S3T that I bought used last year. The rear shock (w/o exposed springs) is leaking fluid and squeaks badly. I called Buell Customer Service at (414) 343-8400 and was told by Cathy that I'm out of luck. The original shock was replaced in 8/99 and if the replacement shock had started leaking within a year of its replacement, then I would be entitled to a new one. Does anyone have a shock for sale? Scott in MA | ||
| Bartimus |
Shit... Not what i wanted to hear. Thanks Henrik. | ||
| Jayzen |
I have a NIB post recall rear shock for 1997-1998 S3/S3T: Kit Part No. K1400.E (Shock Part No. K0431.B) All mounting gear is included. Would anyone know where I could get a trade for the same to a '99 X-1? Sporticus...If I cannot get a trade I may be able to sell this to you for $550.00 plus shipping?? I believe they retail for $629.00 or so at Harley Dealerships. The shock alone is $496.00. edited by jayzen on February 24, 2004 | ||
| S_i_m_p_l_e |
I just sent in my newly aquired Buells' (Stripe'r from Neil) suspenders to Aftershocks in Ca for rebuild, revalve and new springs. Its gonna cost me about 600 total and should be WELL worth it. I ll let ya'll know how it goes and what I think of the service. | ||
| Phillyblast |
Well, finally got a half hour or so today to de-winterize the S2 and found a torn front isolator. Thanks for the ratchet-strap tip, Dave - I'll be trying that next weekend, most likely. | ||
| Firemanjim |
SIMPLE,I have used Aftershocks for everything from the KTM to a rear shock I just got back for the S-2,very good luck with them. edited by firemanjim on February 29, 2004 | ||
| Daveblaster2 |
98 S3T just had fork seals replaced and redline 5 weight oil added to spec level.Working off standard rebound and compression settings. Also, had K1400E rear shock recall done at worlds largest hardly dealer. Eye to eye is 16.5, front adjuster is at half turn as is the rear dial adjuster. What gives, we wonder. Tech who didnt read the destruction manual or we are all in the dark once again. | ||
| Lake_bueller |
Oops!!! I've created a problem that I can't seem to fix. While re-installing the rear wheel, I accidentally but the axle in from the wrong side. But now it won't come back through the swingarm on the right side. It seems to be catching on the adjuster. I've tried banging through with a rubber mallet. All I seem to be doing is messing with the treads. Is there a solution? What's the consequences for having the axle in the opposite direction? Kinda pissed at myself for this situation. I also forgot to put the belt back before re-installing the swingarm. Oh well, this is my first rebuild. I guess it's just part of the learning curve  | ||
| Djkaplan |
If it's caught on the left adjuster, did you try to unscrew the axle out? If the threads are caught, twisting the axle (lefty loosey - righty tighty) should get it out. | ||
| Henrik |
Lake: if the thread is catching, maybe you can put a wrench on the other end and "unscrew" the axle from where it's catching and then give it a whack with a bronze punch?? Henrik (referring to tube frame Buells only - no idea what the set-up is for the XB) | ||
| 1320 |
Sometimes when changing the rear wheel I have had the center wheel spacer flop to one side ..inside the wheel...as an easy fix what I have done is cut a short piece of broom handle and rounded the end..now when it happens I just insert the broom handle through the wheel aligning every thing up and then chase the broom handle out the other side with the axle..as far as I know there is no reason that the axle won't work in either direction as long as it is torqued to the proper specs when tightened.. | ||
| Soundman |
Hey Gang, I have a weird request. Anyone know of better / replacement forks for an X-1. I have already started looking but I figure I better use all the great minds on the site..... I know that Cerani, Showa and Ohlins make 54 mm forks but I havent found a pair for a bike that specs close to a buell....weight etc.. I know that "fluid suspension" and "race tech" can trick out the stock legs for about 700.00 , (gold valve, nitride, springs, fluid etc..) but I know you can find wrecked (not front end) legs for a Duc 998 in good shape for 500.00. I'm just weighing all options. Thanks for any help, Soundman........ | ||
| Soundman |
Sorry gang... The forks I found wer from an older 996.. I still don't know if they would even fit. Soundman | ||
| Henrik |
AFAIR from a conversation with Max at Traxxion Dynamics the X1 legs are a pretty decent design, and with a rebuild with valves and springs you'll have a front suspension that is set up for your weight and riding style. You might end up with a better ride that way?? Keep in mind, that if you go with "other brand" forks, you'll likely need a different front wheel, front brakes and disks, axle, etc. etc. as well. Of course a set of Ohlins Street & Track would be most cool too. Huge Bling Bling factor!  Henrik | ||
| Soundman |
Yeah, I thought about all the stuff needed for a conversion, and I will probably just trick out my stock forks. It would be cool to have adjustable preload but I guess if the springs are spot-on, then what else do I need. I still cant out-ride my bike anyway. Thanks for the info. Soundman...... | ||
| Andys |
Damn! Almost had a set of Showas cheap. Soundman, those front forks are nice. Just get your front sag somewhere between 35mm-40mm and you'll be fine. The bikes really need a better shock. | ||
| Locutus |
I just got off the phone with my dealer and I'm confused. My 2nd hand 96 S1 has a shock with a skinny neck on the rear link, just like all these pictures I see of the recalled shocks. There's none of that collar and bracket stuff on there either. I asked the dealer to check on a recall for my bike. He found that all the recalls have been done on my bike. When I asked about the skinny shock end, which I understand is what the recall was supposed to fix, and he didn't have an answer. He called the factory and they said that that is the post recall shock. So a couple questions 1)How can a shock with a skinny end not be part of a recall? 2)Can any of the new Showa recall shock kits be used on the S1 with a new front mount of some sort? | ||
| Bull |
Urgent I'm about to buy an USD from a S3T -98, complete with triple tree. Will this fit my M2'99 without any modifications or do I need to use certain bearings or.. Thanks in advance/ Jonas | ||
| Daveblaster2 |
Locutus, Got the same deal on my 98 S3T. Whats your eye to eye measurement? When I called customer service she told me it was a K1400E recall kit with front mounts. Seems different from all the info I have been getting on the web, though.Also, what are your dial settings? I may have found a happy medium. | ||
| Bull |
Hey, I still need advice.. I'm about to buy an USD from a S3T -98, complete with triple tree. Will this fit my M2'99 without any modifications or do I need to use certain bearings or.. Thanks in advance/ Jonas | ||
| Davefl |
I believe the bearings are the same but you will need S1 headlight brackets to fit the larger fork tubes. | ||
| Bull |
Thanks Dave /Jonas | ||
| Cu_chulann |
Soundman Just saw your post about forks.Aparently there is a kit you can get to give preload adjustment.Don't know all the details off hand,but will find out and let you know.I like the way your bike is shaping up.Check Hillbilly-motors or H.S.A. for after market tank covers,bet you will want one.They come in fiber glass or carbon fibre,both really nice.Will get back to you about the preload asap. | ||
| Bartimus |
Locutus, the shock with the skinny end is the early recall replacement shock. these were prone to leaking, but once replaced you have a year to get it replaced again. the short fat ended shock is the later recall shock. this is sturdier (sp) and does not leak. These were the ones that are a little shorter,and need the new mounts. You can usually find them on eBay for around $100 -$150. New from the dealer is +$500... | ||
| Soundman |
Thanks for the replies everyone. I have decided to ship my forks out to Race Tech to get valved, re-springed, and coated. Different forks are just too expensive. BTW, I just noticed a load of thin, black oil in / on my shock...front seal is gone. Can't wait to get back in debt.... Soundman | ||
| Bomber |
I've an isolator question for the collective . . . . the front Isolator on my Y2K MaDeuece needed replacing (easily done, except getting a torque wrench on the fasteners, with the help of the manual and hints from this board . . . thanks, all) . . . original isolator split horizontally, and hard to the touch . . . . . however, the rears appear just fine, rubber gives slightly to the touch, the surface is not galled (proper term for rubber?), and the seams seem straight, not twisted . . . I realize thedy are two different designs, but was wondering why the front went south so much more quickly than the rears? anything to treat the front with so it lasts longer? thanks | ||
| Djkaplan |
I'm just taking a wild guess here. A stock M2 has a fitting for a locating link on the front engine mount and frame, but the factory never installed one. I'm not sure how much lateral force the front isolator is subjected to, but the factory did see fit to install a link on the X1. I installed one just for the hell of it (cheap and easy), and I can't really tell a difference one way or the other, but the front isolator on my 2k M2 is still good. | ||
| Bomber |
DJ . . .. thanks for the data . . . .I can see that another link would limit lateral motion, which may keep the splitting frlom happening, but I'm not sure how the rubber deterioration enters into the equation . . . .. good advice, though . . . .. think I'll look into the extra link |
