| Author | Message | ||
     Spatten1 |
I've got a warped front rotor and found a couple of problems that other XB owners may want to look at if you are getting brake pulsing. One of the thick spacers that the disk floats on- A) Was frozen to the bolt and not floating B) Too short to allow the disk to float C) Had a burr on it, probably related to A and B. Just wanted to share my issues. I seem to get every unusual failure imaginable, so it may not be a common issue, but one to keep in mind. PS, the quick check is: When you pull your wheel, make sure that the disk will move up and down slightly at each bolt. | ||
| Reepicheep |
Did you also have the symptom of excessive brake lever travel? Thats the only real symptom of warping that won't be confused with pulsing as a result of deposits... | ||
| Brakes2late |
How do you get the deposits off and is it related to the type of brake pads used? | ||
| Bluzm2 |
Deposits can SOMETIMES be removed with a more agressive brake pad. I had the problem on my M2 a couple of times, I used Lyndahl pads and the problem cleared. Much has been writen about this in the past. It seems that the pad transfer can actually change the structure of the metal. When this happens, different pads usually don't help. Some have speculated that the "depositing" occcurs after heavy braking (rotor and pads are hot) then stopping and leaving pressure on the pads (like stopping at a stop light after a hard run). No proof for sure but sounds like one possibility. To be on the safe side, when stopped at lights or signs, I use the rear brake to hold position on a grade. Brad | ||
| Reepicheep |
The uly I just bought had this really bad... Al hooked me up with the Lyndall Gold pads and it's almost completely gone now and it's only been 100 or so miles. | ||
| Brakes2late |
Seems my problem began not long after I put new OEM pads on the bike. | ||
| Terrys1980 |
Organic pads will leave more deposits. They have rotor hones that can be used on a cordless drill. |
