| Author | Message | ||
     Murf2 |
I had to have my rear line and master cylinder off to change to Uly frame brackets on my STT. I can't get the M.C. to take any fluid out of the res. I opened the bleeder on the caliper but no help. I was thinking of using a Mity Vac at the caliper and try to draw the fluid through. If I do this will I need to have the pedal depressed to let the fluid draw through the M.C.? Any help on bleeding these brakes would be great! I noticed the brake light isn't working now. Neither the front or rear brake will light the brake light. The rear being full of air would keep it from working, I assume. That shouldn't have anything to do with the front should it? Of course, I never noticed if the light was working before the brake line swap. I changed the bulb, no difference. Thanks, Murf2 | ||
| Fasted |
knowledge vault (always 1st source for info step-by-steps) has multiple postings on bleeding with big syringe (look for henrick posting). easy to do alone, easier still with one-way bleeder valve in hose from caliper bleeder screw.............. good luck... | ||
| Al_lighton |
Not sure if it is going to help with your problem, but rear brakes on Buells are best bled uphill. That is, remove the caliper, and make it the highest point with a rotor simulator in between the pads. It's a little awkward, but they'll bleed up in no time if done this way. But if you're not getting any fluid into the master cylinder, that's not going to help. The hydraulic switch for the rear brake won't work until the system will develop pressure. Al | ||
| Kalali |
Al, I wonder if the length of the rear brake line is long enough to allow keeping the caliper higher than the fluid reservoir which in case of an X1 is right below the seat. Need to take a look. | ||
| Al_lighton |
It doesn't need to be higher than the reservoir, just the master cylinder. The real key is that there can't be an upside down P trap in the line. If the line goes up and then back down again, bubbles will stay at the top of the trap and fluid will flow underneath the bubble as you bleed it. It's worse on tubers than most, because the pressure switch is at the top of the trap and the bubble really likes to hang there. Al (Message edited by al_lighton on November 18, 2009) | ||
| Snowbees |
I am about to change the rear brake line on my x1, buy a brake switch banjo bolt that will bolt into the top of the master cylinder (thread is M10 x 1.25), stainless braided line from there to the rear caliper. | ||
| Murf2 |
Thanks for the help guys! I used a Mity-Vac on it last night. Worked like a champ. I've got good pedal now. As to the second problem, the rear brakes now light the brake light but the front brake does not. To try and run down the problem, can I jump the connector at the front switch? The brake light should come on if I connect the two wires that go into the switch, correct? Thanks again for all the help. Murf2 | ||
| Al_lighton |
The front brake switch is notoriously unreliable, they fail ALL the time. See http://www.americansportbike.com/shoponline/ccp0-p rodshow/17160.html Al | ||
| Road_thing |
Murf: I think your front brake switch is actually a micro-switch controlled by the motion of the lever, not a hydraulic switch like the rear. At least that's how the S1's are. rt | ||
| Road_thing |
Thanks, Al! btw--The windscreen and turn signals I bought are here, I haven't opened the box yet, but it's in my truck. rt |
