| Author | Message | ||
     Shooter |
AFV...thats a new one to Me.I will share your wisdom when I am back at the dealer tomorrow.The seals have been checked with a spray bottle since replacement.Thanks for your time, wish the hell you werent so far away. Mike | ||
| Jmartz |
Hoser: The last time I needed to do a manifold the guys at the parts counter told the old aluminum/rubber units has been replaced with these funky intregral all plastic ones. Looking at the 2001's on the floor not a single one had those installed but rather the old stuff. What's the story with these? Jose | ||
| Hoser |
Shooter: Check this too (I have seen this , right out of the box ) look and see if your "tech" crossed the wires that go to the injectors , they are marked front and rear , if they are crossed the bike will still run ......... poorly until about 3000 rpm , this can happen if the "tech" is not paying attention. Hoser | ||
| Hoser |
Jose: For a while we could not get the old intake seals from HD , they had gone obsolete !!?? , the "factory" replacement was the plastic style and were sold in pairs as well as showing up in gasket kits. People started complaining , they listened !? , now they are available again from HD. I have never seen these flanges used on engine assembly from HD !. Hoser | ||
| Hoser |
Shooter: AFV is ........when the bike is running in closed loop , the 02 sensor is "sniffing" , and can help the ECM to adapt to changing conditions like air density , elevation change , etc. I have seen AFV's well over 100 % when an air leak is present , like the ECM thinks it's 750' below sea level !!. A typical value for my location (3500') would be 88% - 92%. Hoser | ||
| Hoser |
Shooter: Forgot to mention.........the AFV can be reset to 100% when the tech has the scanalyzer plugged in to the bike , if he uses the "calibrations" menu , as used when zeroing the TPS ,AFV reset is possible in the calibrations screen. After resetting the AFV ride the bike in closed loop for 15 - 20 minutes and the ECM will "adapt" the correct value , you are close to sea level so it will be near 100% . Good luck Hoser | ||
| José_Quiñones |
My bike did the high idle trick when I put the race ecm on. The race ecm apparently runs a little too rich. Try swapping to the Stock ECM and see if the symptoms go away. What my tech found was that I had an intake leak through the Fuel Injector O-rings. Due to the repeated heating/cooling cycles, these o-rings shrank, letting enough air in to mess up the idle. Check to see if you can move the injectors in the manifold, it they move they are probably too loose. Anyway, as mentioned by Hoser, the AFV will clue you in as to what the ECM thinks is going on. Check everything mentioned above and good luck. José Quiñones | ||
| Shooter |
thanks Jose.Its the severe drop in gas milage thats got Me most concerned. 200 miles a tank to 160 miles a tank in one week.I think its a pretty good symptom of a problem.I have had a race ecm and the wince and wines on the bike from day one, and it ran fine.Anyway thanks for your input. I thought you had a S1 Jose? | ||
| José_Quiñones |
There's two José's around here, I always write my name with the accent over the e. I have a 99S3T I always joke that in a Latin country, if you throw a stone into a crowd, you would probably hit someone named José. Anyway, those symptoms (plugs/bad mileage) sound like classic rich running problems. The high idle tells me that the bike is able to burn the extra fuel the ECM is sending down the manifold with the extra air getting in through a leak somewhere. So check the airbox, the manifold, the injector o-rings, and check the header pipe/exhaust port and the header/muffler clamp to see that there are no leaks. Don't forget to check the AFV as mentioned before. Hope this helps, | ||
| Cyclonem2drew |
Loki - I think a while back you posted something about finding additional plumbing for the Force through Kuryaken's catalog (to route the breather back through the air filter). Do you know if they have a website? | ||
| Cyclonem2drew |
Never mind...found it! Just spelled it wrong... www.kuryakyn.com | ||
| Loki |
Drew, What you are seeking is this. Its an aluminum spacer. Which will fit between the carb and hanger bracket. Through them or your nearest most cost effective dealer or custom shop. I just put a 5/8" spacer on mine to clear the fittings I used. the spacer only ran me 15 clams(fla money). I would say most of the Hyper-charger stuff as far as spacers and plumbing will work with the Force. loki Just need to watch the carb aplications.... | ||
| Cyclonem2drew |
With respect to the FORCE Sidewinder air intake...do most people run the bike in the dry weather with the rain "sock" on or off? I like the look of the sock, but don't want to hurt its performance. Anybody know? | ||
| Stevem |
Shooter- Any luck on your FI problem yet? If/when you have some, PLEASE post what you find. I have a '00 x-1 w/race kit and Force intake. When the bike is hot, if I hold the rpms @ 2500 then chop the throttle, it takes 5 seconds to return to idle. It doesn't do this untill the bike is good and warm.Irritating. What I've done is, Had intake seals replaced. The dealers idea. When nothing changed he said"Thats just how they run." Replaced injector o-rings. Sprayed contact cleaner around intake,injectors,etc. Replaced o2 sensor. Replaced head temp sensor. The sales manager called Buell for me and they suggested i bring the bike in and have the timing checked and set the TPS again. It's there now. I also mentioned they check the AFV. Service dept. still maintaines that thats just how they run, but will see what they can do. I'll let you Know what they find. At least I do know I'm getting the new shock.: ) | ||
| Solcraft |
Here's my problem: I have a '00 X1,10k, Vance&Hines, K&N in the stock box, race ECM. After comming to a stop or just slowing down if I give her a little rev the bike will sputter/miss and sometimes die. Every time it checks out on the scanalyzer and other than this the bike runs great. No one seems to be able to point me in the right direction.Since I've had this problem I'v found quite a few others who have the same problem, not all have the same setup. This has been going on for about 1500 miles. My bike is my daily driver (gotta love the California weather) so I notice every daily quirk. Any feedback or recomendations would be greatly appreciated. Thanks- Solcraft | ||
| José_Quiñones |
Solcraft, Read some of the posts above... check your plugs, are they black? Reset the TPS just in case. | ||
| Shooter |
Stevem,I am learning more about DDFI than I ever wanted to know. My slow return to idle when hot is resolved, after replacement of the O2 sensor and a TPS reset. The AAV value I believe was also reset.I wasnt at the shop ,so I do not know what was the resolving factor.The TPS adjustment must be done 100% per the factory procedure, If your dealer does not have much Buell experience it might be worth trying another shop.Plugs are a good indication of the symptom; i.e. running rich / lean etc. | ||
| Troop |
Damn - That breather set-up from Crossroads is nice looking unit. Just what I need to do now - spend another $350. for a Force/crossroad intake system !! Might be sleeping in the garage next to the M2 !! Hmmmmmm | ||
| Dave |
Bread Box Part Numbers S3 Thunderbolt Touring version Air Box Cover (with 2 holes for the fairing lower bracket) is p/n 29493-97Y The non-Touring version is p/n 29398-97Y It's not in the 1999 (2000 either from what the dealerships says) Thunderbolt parts catalogue DAve | ||
| Jml |
I bought a 00 M2 last fall. This is a great bike. I intend to replace the muffler and gut the air box before spring. I plan to use a K&N and I am considering a supertrapp. I am interested to know if anyone has used this setup and if so, where should I expect the jetting to end up. My goal is to improve the anemic sound and improve the torque in the 2000 – 4000 rpm range. I still need to be able to sneak out of my neighborhood at 5:30 am without irritating the state trooper that lives two houses down. If anyone has a better suggestion than supertrapp I would be interested in hearing that. Thanks, Jerry | ||
| Captlusk |
I have a problem with my 98 S-3. Any help y'all can provide would be much appreciated. I got the bike last summer and it seemed to run fine. At one point I checked the plugs and they were golden brown in color. Lately, since the weather turned cold, I cannot ride the bike because it constantly fouls the plugs. Even at 55mph the bike will begin to run rough and I have to keep the rpms up at stops to keep the bike from dieing. This weekend I fouled a new set of plugs the same day. The plugs are black and sooty. Obviously I need to rejet but what I cannot understand is why it would start now. Could it be the cold weather causing this? Is there somthing else that could be the cause? On the rejetting it's self, I have not had the carb apart. What should I expect when I get into it. How many jets are there and how do I determine which jet to change? Thanks in advance for any help provided. | ||
| Aaron |
There's got to be something else wrong. Cool weather leans a motor, not richens it. Stuck enrichener somehow? Needle out of position? I don't know. The carb is simple to remove, disassemble, reassemble, and replace. I wouldn't go looking for a jet to change, though, I'd be looking for something wrong. | ||
| Captlusk |
I thought hot weather leaned the mixture, I'm incorrect on this? | ||
| Aaron |
No, air is denser when it's colder. It'll make it leaner. IMO, something's gotta be wrong. AW | ||
| Sparky |
Captlusk, I had the same thing happen to my S1 once. I found a piece of sand obstructing the idle air port at the mouth of the carb. It took a flashlight and magnifying glass to see it but after removing it the bike ran great again. Further inspection found the cause, a dislodged airbox seal allowing debris to bypass the filter. Sparky 96S1, 98S3 | ||
| S2no1 |
Captlusk, Look for dirt and possibly a sticking needle. Aaron is right, you get leaner with cold air richer with warm air. The difference is small during the summer. Saturday with the temp in the 30's, even after warm, the bike liked the enrichener when at an idle. Need to turn the "thing a ma jig." Arvel | ||
| Troop |
Anyone have info/experience with the "YoDude" intake system ? Is it a knock off of the Force Sidewinder ? It costs about $40./more but appears to come with a little nice breather set-up. Maybe better directions ? Any input appreciated. | ||
| Captlusk |
Okay this is starting to sound a little more logical since I found a small amount of dirt in the airbox when I changed the air filter(which was dirty) Do I need to disassemble the carb to make sure everything is clear/clean? How can I tell the needle valve is sticking? (I've never had the carb apart) What exactly am I looking for? (besides dirt) | ||
| Chuck |
Hey Paul, First- make sure that your air filter is clean. Clogged filter = less air = rich mixture. With the air box removed, and looking into the "mouth" of the carb, you should see some small brass colored air jets around the outer circumference of the bore. These feed air to your pilot and main fuel jets. If dirt made its way into either of these, you might not be able to see it. The surest way to clear these is to remove the carb and disassemble it completely and blow compressed air into the holes where the fuel jets normally reside. A carb clean is not hard to do; but let me caution you to not take short cuts. Don't blow compressed air into any part of the carb unless its completely apart or you could damage the slide diaphragm or even the float. The trickiest thing is removing the plug that covers the pilot screw (located under the carb just outboard of the float bowl) It has to be drilled through. Then take a sheet metal screw and start it in the hole you made in the plug; and pull on the screw with pliers until what's left of the plug pops out. This enables you to access the pilot screw. Before you unscrew it, screw it in until it seats so that you'll know how many turns out it was before you started (DON'T OVER TIGHTEN SCREW) Later you'll want to put it back to the same position. After the screw is removed you'll see a tiny spring, a tiny flat washer, and a tiny o-ring underneath that. A straightened paper clip with a slight "hook" in its end works nicely to remove the washer and o-ring. My favorite brand of carb cleaner is Berryman's Chem Dip. It comes in a gallon can with an included dip basket. It works best at room temperature. Soak everything you disassembled except the float and the rubber pieces for half and hour; and then rinse with hot water. Blow dry with compressed air (90 - 100 psi) and then chase with Berryman's spray type carb cleaner. Then give everything one final blow with compressed air making sure you "blast" every visible hole in the carb and the jets, ensuring that where ever possible you can see daylight through the holes. Reassemble everything and be sure your "choke plunger", slide assembly, and float needle operate freely (DON'T OVER TIGHTEN JETS) During all of this, you may never actually see any debris; but this should cure any carb related problems. If this sounds "involved" just be glad you don't own a CBX. Please feel free to call. Home 210 523 1989. Work 210 522 2675.  |
