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Buell Forum » Knowledge Vault (tech, parts, apparel, & accessories topics) » Troubleshooting (Poor Starting/Running/Handling/Ride Issues) » Archive through December 21, 2009 » M2's got no cruise « Previous Next »

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Anotherheathen
Posted on Saturday, August 22, 2009 - 06:23 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Greetings,

I just took a chance on a 2000 M2 that had been sitting for two years and was running like $#!t. I drained the gas tank and put fresh gas in and took it out on the road enough to clear the gas lines. It was running horribly and did not improve with the clean gas.

I'm not a mechanic by any stretch of the imagination so I had the local independent Harley mechanic take a look at it. Turns out it had a customized carb and a cracked intake manifold. He replaced the manifold and traded out the carb for a rebuilt stock carb. (I don't know what jets he put in it. He was going by the manual and said it was stock for the bike)

Now it idles nicely, runs smooth and strong through terrain that requires a lot of acceleration changes (curvy, hilly terrain) but it won't cruise at a steady speed with out coughing and popping. It's noticeably worse below about 45mph and a bit smoother above that, but won't run real smooth at any steady speed. There's no popping if I'm accelerating or decelerating. There also doesn't seem to be any when I'm going uphill.

I took it back to the local mechanic to see if he could work it out and he literally started ranting and raving about how he hates this bike and he'll never work on another Buell, and he doesn't want to do this work anymore. Needless to say, I said, "That's alright, I'll take it somewhere else."

So I rode it home and did the standard shade tree mechanic vacuum leak tests, no apparent problems there. What do I do now?

Thanks in advance for your input.
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Blake
Posted on Saturday, August 22, 2009 - 06:41 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Simple. Pop in a #45 slow jet and adjust the idle air mixture screw to 2.5 turns out from full in and you should be good.
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Anotherheathen
Posted on Saturday, August 22, 2009 - 08:20 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Sounds like a winner Blake. I'll give it a shot and get back to the forum on how it went.

Thanks.

- Owen
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Anotherheathen
Posted on Sunday, August 23, 2009 - 04:17 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

I pulled the carb today and it is running a 42 and a 170 and was turned out four and a half turns. My understanding from your post Blake, and from what I've gleaned from this forum is that I should drop in a 190, a 45, and turn the air mixture out 2 and a half turns. Sound correct?

Thanks.

- Owen
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Bluzm2
Posted on Sunday, August 23, 2009 - 10:22 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Owen,
That is correct. It will be a completely different bike when you are done.
Promise!

Brad
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Anotherheathen
Posted on Monday, August 24, 2009 - 04:22 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

That made a HUGE difference but I'm still getting popping and uneven running below about 40mph (sorry, don't have a tach on it so I can't give you RPMs) It's not near as bad as it was, but still significant. It evens out just fine if I pull the choke out about 1/4.

Above 40mph it runs smooth and strong, gets some intermittent popping again at about 60mph, and again, no troubles above sixty.

Oh, and I should have added in my first post, it does not have the stock air cleaner on it, somebody put one of those oval air cleaners on it, the ones you see on the older Sportsters

What should I try next?

Thanks again for the help.

- Owen
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Road_thing
Posted on Monday, August 24, 2009 - 04:46 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

It evens out just fine if I pull the choke out about 1/4.

Sounds like you've got a lean condition--maybe a vacuum leak, or leaky intake seal(s). Since your former mechanic changed out the manifold he may not have gotten them sealed up right. Plenty of info on here about how to test for leaks--search "intake seal".

rt
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Bluzm2
Posted on Monday, August 24, 2009 - 11:16 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Tom is dead on.
Check the intake seals.
Popping is usually caused by intake leaks and or exhaust leaks (usually at the heads).
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Anotherheathen
Posted on Monday, August 24, 2009 - 11:53 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

I did double check for intake and exhaust leaks after I put the carb back on. I didn't detect any problems. Just for "Ss" and "Gs" however, I checked the exhaust flange bolts after the engine was cool and found they were pretty loose. Tightening them up made additional improvement, but I'm still getting the popping below 30/40mph.

Also, in giving everything another once over today I noticed that the air filter is not sealing very well on the left side so it may be leaking air past the rubber seal. Could this be part of the problem?

Thanks again.

- Owen
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Road_thing
Posted on Tuesday, August 25, 2009 - 10:12 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

I doubt that a leaking air filter would cause the popping--it's probably something downstream of the venturi in the carb.

rt
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Sparky
Posted on Tuesday, August 25, 2009 - 01:08 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

There may be vacuum fittings (tubes) coming out of the carb or intake manifold.

One on the manifold goes to the VOES connected by a short rubber hose. Make sure that hose is not brittle and cracked which can cause a vacuum leak.

There may be another tube on the carb that should either be capped with a rubber cap or go to a charcoal cannister. If it's capped, make sure the rubber is not brittle or cracked. If it's missing, cap it.
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Road_thing
Posted on Tuesday, August 25, 2009 - 05:46 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Yeah, what Sparky said. If your former mechanic left the VOES hose disconnected, that'd be a large vacuum leak. Pull the tank and take a look.

rt
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Anotherheathen
Posted on Tuesday, August 25, 2009 - 11:10 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)


There's no tube on the manifold, but there are actually two on the carb that are not connected to anything; one is metal and the other is black plastic. I'll try capping them to see if that makes a difference

(Message edited by anotherheathen on August 25, 2009)
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Buell_bert
Posted on Wednesday, August 26, 2009 - 02:20 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

He has to have a VOES. It must be still in the wiring harness.
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Buell_bert
Posted on Wednesday, August 26, 2009 - 02:24 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Under the tank is a vacuum switch that goes to the carb and has a black wire and a violet with white trace that connects to your wiring harness.
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Blake
Posted on Wednesday, August 26, 2009 - 02:38 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

http://www.badweatherbikers.com/buell/Manuals/S1_1 996-1997_Service/BU7a.pdf

See page 7-10.
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Blake
Posted on Wednesday, August 26, 2009 - 02:39 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

And pages 1-30 thru 1-32 of...

http://www.badweatherbikers.com/buell/Manuals/S1_1 996-1997_Service/BU1b.pdf

(Message edited by blake on August 26, 2009)
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Blake
Posted on Wednesday, August 26, 2009 - 02:46 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

And page 4-14 of...

http://www.badweatherbikers.com/buell/Manuals/S1_1996-1997_Service/BU4a.pdf


VOES Vacuum Line at Buell Carburetor
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Sparky
Posted on Wednesday, August 26, 2009 - 03:54 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

I stand corrected. The tube for the VOES is on the back of the carb pointing up and not on the manifold.

So if the VOES is not connected to the carb, the ignition will always be on the retard ignition curve which is great for hard acceleration and high engine load conditions and it will never go to the advance curve which is for part-throttle cruising and good mileage. And that, I believe, could be a big part of the reason for your post -- no cruise.

So, take off the gas tank and look for device #17 as depicted in Figure 7-9 Ignition Components on this page as Blake noted above.

-- If you can't find it plugged into the wire harness under the tank, you might find just the two-wire connector that is supposed to go to the VOES disconnected on the harness.

-- If you do find the VOES and it's not connected to the back of the carb with a short piece of hose, connect it. Then make sure its electrical connector is plugged into the wire harness, and you're good to go.
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Anotherheathen
Posted on Wednesday, August 26, 2009 - 11:20 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Thanks again for your help.

I did find today that the VOES is connected correctly. I will do the ignition timing test as per the manual instructions on it tomorrow.

I also found that there is a Canister vent tube, but it is not connected to anything. Should this be plugged, or left open?

Thanks

- Owen
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Bluzm2
Posted on Thursday, August 27, 2009 - 06:38 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

If there isn't a charcoal canister, it should be blocked.
It's a vacuum leak!

Brad
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Jim2
Posted on Sunday, August 30, 2009 - 10:16 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

There is also a drain hose on the bottom. That should not be blocked off. It just hangs down below the carb.
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Anotherheathen
Posted on Tuesday, September 08, 2009 - 02:27 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

SUCCESS!!

I thank you gentlemen. Give yourselves a pat on the back for guiding a no wrenchin' mo-fo like myself through the process of getting this problem ironed out. I was on the bike for six hours Saturday with absolutely no problems!!

Again, many, many thanks to you all for the help.

- Owen
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