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Buell Forum » Knowledge Vault (tech, parts, apparel, & accessories topics) » Troubleshooting (Poor Starting/Running/Handling/Ride Issues) » Archive through August 24, 2009 » Starting Problem « Previous Next »

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Wpr2
Posted on Sunday, May 17, 2009 - 12:09 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

I have a 2005 Buell P3 Blast that only clicks loudly when attempting to start. The original battery has been replaced. I performed the Free Running Current Draw Test and my clamp-on ammeter indicated 18 amps on inrush and 7 amps thereafter. The factory manual states "ammeter should show 90 amps max, if reading is higher, disassemble starter for inspection." The manual doesn't provide a range or a low amp reference, so my question is if the 18 amp inrush current is too low and what, if any, problems can be concluded from that.
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Buell_bert
Posted on Sunday, May 17, 2009 - 12:36 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

I would take the solenoid off and check the contacts first.
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Wpr2
Posted on Thursday, May 28, 2009 - 12:04 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Thanks. I did take a look at the solenoid contacts and they showed very little wear. I ran the starter/solenoid through all the tests in factory manual and it works fine on the bench. I'm beginning to suspect it's not the starter.
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Sparky
Posted on Thursday, May 28, 2009 - 02:11 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Look at the battery grounding points from the battery negative post to the frame and from the frame to the engine.

Make sure that at each point there is clean metal to metal contact and the fasteners are tight. That means you should remove each fastener, bolt, screw or clamp involved and inspect the connection, clean if required and reinstall.

Also do a continuity check on the battery cables giving them a little wiggle test at the same time to verify that there is no break inside the cable jacket.
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Sportyeric
Posted on Friday, May 29, 2009 - 08:50 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

I think I cured my intermittant starting problem with the addition of a lock-washer (that was inadvertantly left off) on the bolt connecting the live cable to the battery.
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Wpr2
Posted on Tuesday, June 16, 2009 - 07:15 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Sorry for the delay in replying to your posts. I do appreciate the help. It turns out that my starting problem was related to two problems. First, a permanent magnet broke in the alternator rotor which caused the initial problem with the original battery being discharged. I replaced the battery initially suspecting that was the problem but had no better luck with a new one installed. Second, something (I think it was a piece of the magnet) jammed the gears and wouldn't allow the starter to turn the engine. The problems were found by my mechanic after I gave up for lack of time. He never found what was jamming the gears but said they freed up after putting some torque on them. Thanks again for your help and I hope this info might help someone in the future.
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