G oog le BadWeB | Login/out | Topics | Search | Custodians | Register | Edit Profile

Buell Forum » Knowledge Vault (tech, parts, apparel, & accessories topics) » Chassis » Suspension - Forks, Isolators, Shocks, and Swingarm » Archive through October 31, 2009 » XB fork lower diassembly « Previous Next »

Author Message
Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message

Rieguy187
Posted on Monday, May 11, 2009 - 09:45 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Just wondering if anyone knows how to get the lower section off of a showa for for an 03 XB9? the cast part that the fender and axel are attached to. are these pressed on to the fork slides?

ThanX in advance
Ryan
Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message

Bcool83
Posted on Saturday, May 23, 2009 - 11:11 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Bump - I need to know if this is possible as well...
Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message

Mbest
Posted on Saturday, May 23, 2009 - 11:50 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

There is a small allen set screw in the side of the casting that needs to be removed. then after the Male-Slider fork tube is secured, to allow the end to be unscrewed. You need to heat the cast end to about 375 degrees (chocolate chip cookie temps) to "kill" the loctite that the factory used in assembly. Put your axel in the fork end to use as a wrench/handle to unscrew the end from the tube. Propane torch will do it, oxy-acet torch ONLY IF YOU KNOW WHAT YOU ARE DOING!!! As you heat it up, give it a twist or two, it may unscrew at just a few hundred degrees if you are lucky. Once it "breaks loose" it will unscrew by hand while still hot. There are some o-rings in there, get them away from the heat asap if you are not replacing them with new ones (I would). Let the aluminum cool as slow as possible, do not "quench" in cold water. And if you get too aggressive and turn the chrome on your fork tubes "blue" then you went 600 or so degrees too hot and your tubes are now flower pots. nothing to it, piece of cake
Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message

Mbest
Posted on Saturday, May 23, 2009 - 11:56 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Forgot to say... That little allen set screw in the side of the fork tube, most likely has some loctite on it as well. so you might not get it out until you start to get some "heat" in your part. I would start heating in the area of this set screw first. Then when it free's up, you will have an idea of how much heat will be needed on the entire part.
« Previous Next »

Add Your Message Here
Post:
Bold text Italics Underline Create a hyperlink Insert a clipart image

Username: Posting Information:
This is a private posting area. Only registered users and custodians may post messages here.
Password:
Options: Post as "Anonymous" (Valid reason required. Abusers will be exposed. If unsure, ask.)
Enable HTML code in message
Automatically activate URLs in message
Action:

Topics | Last Day | Tree View | Search | User List | Help/Instructions | Rules | Program Credits Administration