| Author | Message | |||
     Aussiexbox |
Okay I have put a set of Hella FF100 driving lights onto the Uly,what I want to know is,what is the electrical systems capacity?as I will have 220watts burning with 2 spotties and both the headlights on at once,my calculation is approx 10 amps of draw on the system with all going plus any extra lights in the dash,as well,so what can the system cope with?can I run them all on without any hassles. Cheers Phil (Message edited by aussiexbox on April 12, 2009) | |||
| Werewulf |
you might want to run some better ground wires.... the stock grounding system is puny.. | |||
| Edcoxe |
I have 2 hellas with H7 bulbs that are always on with both headlights always on----2007 Uly ...no problems with over 10k miles. I use the SILVER STAR Sylvania bulbs from walmart. Still have original battery with 16k miles. Check your grounds carefully. | |||
| Aussiexbox |
Are we talking about the grounds at the headstem,& the battery?,and is the suggestion to up the wire size? Phil | |||
| Petebueller |
Hi Phil The bulb chart in the workshop manual shows the current draw for the bulbs. You could also base it on a nominal 13 Volts. If you add them up (with both headlights on high, and indicators 1 side) they come to a bit over 13 Amps. With your driving lights you are using 21 Amps for bulbs plus the fuel pump, fan, horn, ignition, and all of that has to fit into 30 Amps - main fuse. (The charging system is rated at 34 Amps at 3000 RPM.) I asked an autoelec to see if I could run 65W H7s in my Hellas instead of 55W. When he checked, he said that with the heated grips I was already at the limit. Your driving lights are taking a bit more than heated handgrips. You could maybe look at running HIDs in the driving lights to use less power. One bike I bought had a burnt winding in the stator. I suspect it was due to the driving light that the former owner had been running. | |||
| Aussiexbox |
Thanks Pete has anybody got any idea on the amp draw of the fuel pump,fan,and the others that you mentioned,I'm running 55w spotties,so I will have a combined 210w on high beam. Phil | |||
| Rays |
Phil, the hard work has been done before, this previous post should help you out - the fuel pump and fan draw quite a bit I'm afraid.  http://www.badweatherbikers.com/buell/messages/142 838/369013.html | |||
| Aussiexbox |
Thanks Ray,it's hard to make out what the boys are saying,from the looks of it FB says load the system up for better performance,I'll see what I can work out tomorow,and report back,looks like another 12 hours of mental judo,working this out. Phil | |||
| Petebueller |
Gamdh's research gives info I've been looking for. I've reworked his table a bit to include twin high beam, heated grips, and modified the values for the current draw of the brake/tail light and the instrument panel to match my 2007 Firebolt workshop manual. I couldn't work out how he got the table embedded in the post, so mine is a PDF. The charging system is rated 34 amps minimum at 3000 rpm, but there is a 30 amp main fuse between the regulator and the battery. Since it isn't expected to blow on the charging test at 34 - 38 Amps it is perhaps a time delay fuse. The charging test applies the load for a max of 20 seconds. I don't think that the charging system has a heap of capacity. It isn't quite as bad as the table suggests because the workshop manual bases the current on a nominal 12V, and I think bulb manufacturers rate the power (wattage) at the battery operational voltage, so the current draw of the bulbs will be lower than quoted. Anyway twin headlights and heated grips takes the charging system up to the limit IMO.
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| Petebueller |
You'll have to forgive me. I'm an electrical engineer and it irked mixing 12V and 13V references. This should be more accurate. I believe that the power rating will be at 13.5 volts. I measured my headlight at 12.25V 3.77A (battery's a bit low while my licence cools off). This scales up to 56W at 13.5V. So 13.5V seems about right. I've also added in indicators and the Euro running lamp. By using the wattage at 13.5 volts, the current scales down from that quoted for a nominal 12V. When the voltage drops from 13.5V to 13V at higher load, the current reduces proportionally. Then I have a 13V reference to compare against the charging specs. I think that consumption needs to be based on the 30A main fuse or to the 34A charging test perhaps since getting everything maxed out at once is almost impossible. Basing on 38A I think could be trouble. You can't guarantee that a given XB will make 38A at 3000 RPM.
Post deleted and reinserted with modified table. The power for the heated grips in the previous table was based on 13.5 and not 13. Needed a new name to change the PDF. | |||
| Aussiexbox |
Thanks Pete,will look into it when we get home,but one thing that was happening was I was getting power feedback through to the relay,along the earth wire,it was running 12+ volts when the power lead was disconected from the battery,so it apears that the system is getting power back thtough itself?WTF,I have no idea,is there some mystery in the switching of the lights? Be online fully from Thursday night. Cheers Phil (Still making my way back from Muster09) |
