| Author | Message | ||
     Roadrunr |
MB, you need to take the nut completely off the adjustment screw. your ball and ramp assy. is what is holding your cover on. | ||
| Al_lighton |
IF you only need to replace the gasket, there's no need to unscrew the cable from the cover, but you will need to disconnect the cable from the clutch. That means completely removing the nut and ball ramp assy, not just a 1/4 turn. Also, back off the primary chain adjustment screw completely or it will hang the cover. Once all this is done, a couple raps with a rubber mallet while tugging on the cover in the clutch area should pop it right off. DO NOT pry it off with a screwdriver at the faying surfaces. And have something to catch all the oil...the drain only drains about 80-90% of it, a lot is hung behind the gasket "dam", and once you pull that cover, the dam is burst. Stinky stuff, I'm in the middle of a transmission service (worn dog-osis) and my garage REEKs right now. Al | ||
| Mbryan67 |
The clutch adjustment screw doesn't seem to want to turn to allow the ramp and nut to come forward for removal. A mechanic told me that I must really apply some pressure because it is seized up and doing so will probably break the clutch adjustment screw. Any ideas? | ||
| Kenb |
I just did this yesterday. Back off the adjustment all the way on the clutch cable FIRST. Then with the clutch inspection cover off the locknut should just slide off. The screw will then turn. | ||
| 99buellx1 |
Had to replace my main shaft oil seal and this is what I found. Luckily I already had the new tensioner and was going to replace it anyway.  Just because you don't have any wierd noise, or don't think there is a problem with your tensioner REPLACE IT ANYWAY! Mine was still holding strong but it was cracked all the way through on both sides of the bolt. It was only a matter of time before it decided to fall off and really mess things up. It's a rather inexpensive part and simple to replace. Craig Buell Cycle Center  edited by 99buellx1 on September 04, 2003 | ||
| Mbryan67 |
Worked like a champ. The manual didn't say to slide the locknut off first. And thanks to the post from buellx199, I checked my chain tensioner when I got the case off and mine looks exactly like his picture!!!! | ||
| Fuscat |
I too developed the primary gasket leak this week. I have a 97 S1, I was wanting to make sure I had the correct part numbers for what I need. P/N 34955-89B Primary Cover Gasket (is this the correct # for the new "metal" type gasket??) and P/N 39975-90A Chain Adjuster Assy (for the new style chain tensioner) Are these correct and is there anything else I should need to replace the gasket and the tensioner? Anything else to check while I'm in there? Thanks in advance! edited by Fuscat on September 17, 2003 | ||
| Reepicheep |
There is a little seal that goes around the hole where the shifter shaft comes out. If you don't bang it up too much when you put the cover back over it you probably don't need to replace it, but it is a cheap part. If your tranny vent is blowing fluid you might want to replace the crank seal while you are in there as well, though that is getting in deeper. Only a couple more nuts, but they are the 'big uns'. | ||
| Fuscat |
Reep- Got it! P/N 37101-84 Shifter seal. I went back through the archives and found alot of good tips! I am not sure about the tranny vent. Will look into it. Thanks for the help. P.S. To anyone who had this leak happen how much fluid leaks over how much time? I know this question has 1.5 million variables but, I would say after the last two rides I have found half dollar size spots in the garage. The reason I ask is I am headed out on a weekend ride and I leave Friday. This does not leave me enough time to get this fixed before I leave! I am hoping that this will not prevent me from going.. | ||
| Road_thing |
Fuscat: A half-dollar size spot is probably less than a teaspoon. Check the level by removing the clutch "derby" cover and looking inside--the oil ought to be just touching the bottom of the clutch. This is a ten minute job (unless you bugger up the godforsaken Torx screws that Buell used to hold the derby on). r-t | ||
| Fuscat |
Road Thing- Will do. Checked it before I rode last night level seemed ok. I was concerned that I would be running it dry over the weekend. We expect to put on a lot of miles by the time we get back. Doesn't sound like I have much to worry about unless I see huge amounts after being parked. | ||
| Reepicheep |
Fuscat... if you are going on a long ride right after service, pack the necessary allen socket and a torque wrench. More then once I have adjusted everything to spec, had two good (short) rides, then have it pee all over the place on the third thermal cycle or so. After the first couple heat up / cool down cycle, throw the torque wrench on all those primary cover bolts and make sure they are still to torque. And be real careful putting the gasket in. You need about 6 hands, and it is easy to fold up a corner and create a leaker. 4" sections of dowel rod hit on both ends with a pencil sharpener will thread into the bolt holes and hold the gasket in place while you position the primary cover (and lift the primary chain over the tensioner shoe). It's an easy job. If you take your time and be methodical, it will stay that way  | ||
| Fuscat |
Good advice! I will luckily have some good help this evening as I left my bike over at KCBill's house last night. We are going to change it out tonight before the trip so I will have time to be able to warm it up/cool it down and check it a few times before we leave. I also got the tensioner and the new seal as well. | ||
| Stubby |
Is it possible to R&R the shifter shaft seal on the primary cover without removing the whole shebang? If so, what is the recommended procedure? Another blankety-blank leak has developed. Fortunately no leaks from the final drive pinion seal. The only place on my bike which hasn't leaked. Thanks. Stubby. | ||
| Essjay |
Riding to the salt flats I started getting a lot of oil from the primary case breather hose. Thought at first I had overfilled the primary so I drained out a couple of ounces. That seemed to work until I was headed back when I really started blowing oil. I pulled the inspection cover again and had to drain about 3 ounces to get the level back down. Suspecting a mainshaft seal leak and having another 800 miles to ride I built a catch can which worked very well all the way home.  Now I just need to tear down the primary and find the problem. essjay | ||
| Reepicheep |
Essjay... probably just the crankseal. Pull the primary cover, and the clutch and stator assemblies (as a unit) and it is right there. An easy fix. Henrik has some great writeups posted on his website. If you don't want to wait for a special tool, I used a short section of copper pipe (2" diameter? Can't remember) from the local hardware store to seat the seal. It was just a shade too small, so I cut it lengthwise (so I could spread it out slightly) and smoothed out the edges. Worked well, though you will have to manually eyeball the seating depth. The harder part is getting the old seal out. The aluminum seating surface is soft as butter, so don't wedge something in there and start prying. | ||
| Essjay |
thanks for the info Reep- better to go where someone has already walked. essjay | ||
| Shotgun |
Reep, where is Henrik's website? I have the same problem as Essjay, crankseal leak. Goin to get the seal this afternoon. Pulling the clutch pack as a unit looks like it doesn't require any special tools right? It's only if you disassemble it that you need spring depressers etc? | ||
| Essjay |
Shotgun- try this> http://isk-institute.com/henrik/Shaft_Seal/FrameSet.htm I am doing this job today using the old style seal since I am too impatient to wait for ordering the new style. Both dealers closest to me don't stock this seal?????? Got the old style in and only messed up the first 2. First one I got started crooked and bent it. Then I built a pusher to install with and installed the second one wrong side out! This is why I only work on my own machines. But 3rd time was the charm and now I am buttoning it up. The clutch pack comes off as a unit with the chain and front drive sprocket. Take off both nuts and pull the whole assembly as a unit. (and remember, the clutch nut is reverse thread, clockwise to loosen) Shane | ||
| Leeaw |
Essjay, Can you tell me how long it takes to get the whole sprocket/clucth assembly off as I have to get at my stator and never opened the primary before. Any tips? Lee | ||
| Shotgun |
Leeaw, you can get in there pretty quick. You'll need a 1 1/8 socket for the drive side nut and a 30MM (1 3/16 but it is hard to find) for the clutch side nut. If you have the tools, 30 minutes first time? | ||
| Leeaw |
 | ||
| Stubby |
All; Any suggestions as to how to properly remove the shifter shaft seal from the primary cover for replacement without having to pull the primary cover in the first place? There's gotta be a way. I just fixed the primary from leaking and don't want to have to go through that again. Thanks, Stubb. | ||
| Reepicheep |
I just had to do this again myself, darnit. After rebuilding my transmission, the sprocket nut backed off and I had to pop the primary cover and retighten. No doubt I did not get all the mobil 1 off the crank before putting on the lock tite red. You can tell this is happening because you hear the alternator rotor banging around in there at idle. A little bit like a loose primary chain, but more of a ring then a box of gravel. Put any load on the engine, and it goes away. Anyway, I did that and it was good for a thousand miles or so, and then started doing it again. I figured the nut must be damaged or worn out, so I popped it back apart this weekend to check it. Much to my worry, the nut was torqued down fine. With a sinking feeling, I pulled the rotor off and checked it, and much to my suprise the four bolts that secure the rotor to the primary chain sprocket were all loose. Same symptom, different cause. I never touched these bolts, so I am not sure why they all loosened up. The only thing I can figure was it was all the banging around from the loose sprocket nut the first time. So the lesson here is that if you ever have the sprocket nut loosen up and bang around while riding, when you go back in there and retighten, you might as well slap a wrench on those four bolts that hold the sprocket to the rotor as well. And I also used the Cometic metal gasket for the first time this time. WOW was that easier. About $10 more expensive then the old paper part, about $5 cheaper then the new metal harley part, worth every penny. Why didn't you guys point this out to me when I was describing all my sharpened dowel rods and use your forth hand to lift the chain over the tensioner while your fifth hand lines up the shifter shaft descriptions! | ||
| Sarodude |
Dilemma- I delved into our Blast's (2002) primary over the weekend. I wanted to make sure that the bike didn't have the loose detent arm screw problem and also wanted to adjust the pawl. Anyway, when it went back together, a TEENY TINY little springlet wound up getting torn out of some sort of shift shaft seal. No biggie - just install a new seal. Well, the Blast parts book lists a bushing (40520-63) and an oil seal (37101-84). For some reason, the seal in my primary cover doesn't look like 37101-84. It looks metallic (looking from outside the primary cover). I'm not sure what to do here. What am I missing? I'm weeping good oil from the shift shaft and want to get that sealed up. Help! -Saro | ||
| Stubby |
Welcome to my world Sarodude. Regards, STubb | ||
| Essjay |
Sarodude- If the seal on the blast is the same as on the other Buells and the XL's, the old metal/rubber/tiny spring seal has been superseded by a new one piece hard plastic/rubber seal which is easier to use. Just ask your dealer for the new seal. Shane | ||
| Leeaw |
I opened up my primary this weekend and found the typical split plate in my 99 M2. I bought the newer style with the thicker plate to replace it, but I am wondering if that could cause a chatter in the tranny at around 4k rpm. I was suprised that the plastic shoe itself looked barely worn at all and there were no lash marks on the primary cover. I want to try and resolve the noise if I can while I am in there but this is the first time I have opened it up. | ||
| Werewulf |
i didnt get a response the last time i asked this question, maybe someone new is tuned in now. baker transmission, sells a compensator gear set up for the buell, to get more zip off the line. this set up works great on my harley. has anyone tried changing their gear ratio? how many teeth on a stock 2000 m-2 compensator gear? | ||
| Chauly |
From my recent experience with my '97 S3: I had a main shaft seal separate into 2 pieces: the metal piece in the case and a rubber ring rattling around on the shaft behind the rotor. About 1-1/2 qt. of engine oil into the transmission equals a scary leak all over the rear tire! The seal was a James, and apparently not crimped sufficiently. Tug on it before you install the seal! The last yahoo to work on my primary partially stripped one of the upper bolts holding the case on. Helicoil time! I finished stripping it with 60 inch-lb.... Curious thing is the bolt was completely covered with aluminum oxide corrosion when I removed it. Apparent some detergent worked its way into the hole and made a nice battery. The reason I went into the Primary this time was some continuing roughness in shifting, coupled with a false neutral between 2nd and 3rd. I pulled out the gear cluster to see if anything was amiss in there. It looks good, so back in it went.I see reference to a loose detent arm; that's what happened to me on the Carving the NE tour, fixed (temporarily, it turns out) by Battlefield H-D/Buell in Gettysburg. The arm shoulder bolt was still tight, but I wasn't happy with the 10 degrees of slop side-to-side. A feeler gauge registered about .018" of play, so I chucked the shoulder bolt in the lathe and took off about .015" from the shoulder length. Now it moves like a rifle sear... The final thing was the shifter pawl adjustment. I suspect this was not done when the engine went back together. Pretty straightforward; I even had the #36 drill bit! Of course, things were going too well up to this point, so that's when I foound the stripped bolt, and the cover wouldn't seal, and now y'all have me worried about my M6 tensioner! I'll get one of the new tensioners tomorrow, I have 2 of the metal-cored gaskets (in case I, well, you know...)and a Helicoil kit. I'm loaded for bear, now! |
