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Buell Forum » Knowledge Vault (tech, parts, apparel, & accessories topics) » Troubleshooting (Poor Starting/Running/Handling/Ride Issues) » Archive through April 15, 2009 » 97 M2 Stalls when Enricher pushed in « Previous Next »

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Jimmy77
Posted on Friday, January 23, 2009 - 03:11 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

This is a repost since I think I was posting in the wrong forum...

Issue: Bike sat for a few months. Bike starts right up with the "choke" on. Bike warms to operating temp. (I'm in FL, it's already "warm".) As soon as I push the choke in it dies. Expecting a vacuum/intake leak I did the following...

I removed the carb, cleaned it with carb cleaner, and replaced every gasket from the header to the forecewinder. Sprayed carb cleaner through the petcock and all lines, added carb cleaner to the gas as well as drained and added new gas. I replaced both spark plugs, and I've got the idle adjuster dialed in.

It still does the exact same thing! Runs fine with the enricher "choke" pulled out. I get the engine up to operating temp and push it in. It immediately dies if I'm not on the throttle. I then did the intake/vaccum test with WD-40 and there is no leak. I also tried getting it out on the road to blow anything through the fuel system that my be gunking it up. Any ideas?
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Buelltuner
Posted on Friday, January 23, 2009 - 08:43 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

take the bowl off and make sure all jets and passages are clean. You said it sat for awhile, so it is possible that your slow speed jet is clogged up. When the enrichner is out there is enough fuel to run the bike, when you shut that off there needs to be enough fuel flowing through the slow speed jet. If it looks dirty, take a small paper clip and lightly clean it out.
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Kusskid76
Posted on Friday, January 23, 2009 - 11:50 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

ok DO NOT USE ANY METAL OBJECTS TO CLEAN YOUR JETS EVER!!!!!! You can damage the jets that way. Have you had the intake to cyclinder seals replaced? H-D make some crappy plastic ones for a while that leak all the time,dont ask me how I know.

The best way to clean a gummed carb is to dissasemble the carb all except the vaccum chamber on top(where the diaphram is dont worry the diaphram is completly sealed in there) and soak it in carb cleaner. You can get a gallon can at any auto parts store, just make sure no rubber part go in.
Then blow every thing out with compressed air and reassemble
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Buelltuner
Posted on Saturday, January 24, 2009 - 08:29 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

DO NOT USE ANY METAL OBJECTS TO CLEAN YOUR JETS EVER!!!!!! Oh, that's why people like K&L make metal wire jet cleanrs! Use common sense, don't jam anything in there, lightly insert something that is smaller in diameter and spin the jet. I have soaked some carbs for days and still had to use other methods to clean.
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Bluzm2
Posted on Saturday, January 24, 2009 - 10:33 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Indiscriminate use of an air nozzle on a CV carb can cause damage.
That loud clacking sound as you blow air into the intake tract is the CV slide being slammed to it's top position.
Not good.
Removing the vaccuum slide and diaphram isn't difficult (only 4 screws)and should be done before soaking the carb and hitting it with compressed air.
Obviously the slide and diaphram must be handled carefully.....

Brad
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Jimmy77
Posted on Sunday, January 25, 2009 - 08:46 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

No abusive treatment of any holes here... I needed a visual so I went to Fletcher's HD in Clearwater and they let me look at an exploded view of the carb in their parts manual. Removed the 4 screws out of the bottom of the carb and liberally applied carb cleaner in the hole of the slow jet. No loud "clacking" sound observed. I did see a little build up of something around the base of the slide under the diaphram. I used lots of carb cleaner and a soft clean cotton shirt to clean it.

I repeated the start up procedure and its still stalling at the moment I push in the enricher. I put some Gum Out octane boost in the tank and ran it for about 10 to 15 miles to see if that blue any loose particles through. No luck. I'm going to try cleaning it one more time before breaking it all the way down and soaking it.

Thank you for all your help. So far this has been a valuable lesson only learned by a mistake and getting my hands on it. and of course the knowledge of the BadWeb Forum.
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Firemanjim
Posted on Sunday, January 25, 2009 - 12:13 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Has it ever been re-jetted, slow jet replaced? You say you have idle adjuster dialed in, do you mean the idle speed adjuster that moves the carb linkage? Have you ever set idle mixture--that screw resides on bottom of the carb and needs to be set with bike running. If carb has never been worked on this is still under a seal/cap which needs to be removed to gain access to screw.Done with carb off. While you had the carb off did you remove the slow jet and clean it/blow air throughit?It has very small passages and can easily be clogged.
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Jimmy77
Posted on Monday, January 26, 2009 - 09:34 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

No it has not been rejected in the 2.5 years I've owned it. As its called in the OM the idle adjuster is that 12" flexible cable with a nob on the end that connects to the "throttle plate and the side of the carb. I have not se the idle mixture screw on the bottom of the carb.

I did not remove the slow jet just shot carb cleaner through the hole. I plan on breaking it down further this week.
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Sparky
Posted on Monday, January 26, 2009 - 04:52 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

To add what Firemanjim said, remove the idle mixture screw. It is accessable from the bottom of the carb, next to the float bowl, side nearest the engine. This screw adjusts fuel/air mixture from the slow speed jet.

Spray carb cleaner in the hole where you removed the idle mixture screw per instructions in my post in your other repost on this topic.

Then reinstall the idle mixture screw all the way in gently until it seats, then back it out about 2 1/2 turns. Start the bike per normal procedure and after about a minute, push in the enrichener and see if it idles like it should. You may have to readjust the idle speed with the remote idle speed adjuster (not the idle mixture screw) to get the correct idle rpms.
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Jimmy77
Posted on Tuesday, February 10, 2009 - 04:04 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Removed and cleaned the idle mixture screw and port as well as the slow jet and main jet. I even replaced the vaccum piston, but it's still doing the same thing.
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Creature_x1
Posted on Tuesday, February 10, 2009 - 11:34 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

There is always the most costly fix I know..... Mikuni 42mm !!

There is a bike we just fixed at the shop that had the same problem. I'll look through the records and remember what the problem was....
give me 'till tomarrow.

(Message edited by creature_x1 on February 10, 2009)
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