| Author | Message | ||
     Sportyeric |
I've always used blue locktite on any bolt without a lock-washer. I'm starting to be concerned about a buildup of locktite. Running a tap through the holes seems overly intrusive. I'm thinking maybe anti-seize would be a better choice for things like rocker-box bolts and intake manifold bolts. Or is it necessary to use anything? | ||
| Buell_bert |
Wow this is going to be interesting. Personally if it is steel to aluminum or high temp I go for anti seize compound. Hey ask a question get more questions. I also use other things it just depends on the application. I can't wait to see the other postings. | ||
| Sportyeric |
Well Bert. Not very interesting at all! So I phoned my dealership and they said blue locktite on the rockerbox bolts. I'll be using anti-seize on bolts I can see and check and locktite on those I can't. | ||
| Bombardier |
Would the use of antisieze mean you have to torque the bolts more to retain them? It would seem that the antisieze would just help them to come loose. | ||
| Buell_bert |
Hey Eric that's just fine. I tried to torque the rocker box bolts and snapped 3 of them and that was using 2 different torque wrenches. I guess I use more anti seize than locktite. Bolts and nuts have to be clean to get a proper torque and you need to blow out bolt holes so no oil or other stuff is in them. Also Bombardier do not over torque any bolt, you may just need an easyout. Anti seize just makes it easier to remove a nut or bolt especially if they are dissimillar metals. Proper torque puts tension on the bolt or nut. I also like to use lock washers and nylock nuts to keep things from falling off. We all have our own ideas on how to do a job. | ||
| Sportyeric |
I'm hoping after the rebuild that I won't be going into the covers for a long while. As Bert says, dissimilar metals should have something between them to prevent them from welding together over time. If they loosen up from vibration, I can deal with that on the ones I can see. The hidden ones will again get locktite. BTW, Bombardier, do you know the length of the rocker box bolts? I can't find mine and may have to buy another set, hopefully just from a fastener shop. (Message edited by Sportyeric on January 14, 2009) | ||
| Sportyeric |
Oh ho, Bert. Snapping bolts sounds like you read the torque figures from the manual but failed to note that some are in inch-pounds. So are the exhaust nuts specs. Ask me how I know. | ||
| Sportyeric |
Bought the missing bolts from a dealer and they come with lock-tite on them already. Then found the missing ones cleverly inserted in the (fastened together) rocker boxes. Doh! | ||
| Bombardier |
Bought the missing bolts from a dealer and they come with lock-tite on them already. ??? Dry lock-tite? | ||
| Sportyeric |
Blue lock-tite. Hadn't really thought about the fact that my lock-tite in a bottle is liquid. But yes. The bolts that hold the carb to the backing plate also come with locktite pre-applied. A new question. Is there a less intrusive way to clean holes of old lock-tite other than with a tap? Is there a solvent that will soften it so that running the bolt through a few times will clean it up? | ||
| Buell_bert |
Not sure but MEK or Acetone may do the job | ||
| Jomartijr |
Thread cleanup can be done by cutting slots in a bolt matching the thread of the hole you're cleaning. Use a Dremel and cutting wheel to cut 4 slots along the long axis of the bolt which makes an excellent thread chaser and cleans out any leftover thread locker or gunk. This sometimes requires dipping the slotted bolt in mineral spirits for solvent action. Then blow out with an air hose and you're in business. | ||
| Argentum |
Would the use of antisieze mean you have to torque the bolts more to retain them? Quite the opposite actually. Any lubricant reduces the co-efficient of friction(k-factor). K-factor is used in calculating the amount of applied torque required to achieve fastener/bolt tension to give a designed clamping force. Another factor considered is the yield strength of the fastener, which cannot be exceeded. If a bolt, that is specified to be tensioned dry, is lubricated with something like anti-seize, the target torque figure must be recalculated & reduced to allow for the reduction of friction. Failing to do so can lead to over-tensioning, causing thread damage and/or possible breakage of the fastener from exceeding it's yield strength. Even applying Loctite to a dry thread requires a reduction in the torque value. This is due to Loctite acting as a lubricant before it cures. A reduction of 15%-25% is typical but not exact. Although, if the manual says to use Loctite then there is no need to adjust the torque value as it has already been calculated.} |
