| Author | Message | ||
     Doncasto |
From the information at the Heading of this topic: 1)Change slow jet to 45 or 48 (start with 45, stock is 42) 2)Change fast jet to 190 or 195 (Stock is 195 or 200, note that a 185 works better for some bikes at high altitudes like in Colorado - true optimum jetting is best done via dyno) 3)Carefully remove plug over idle mixture screw (drill it out carefully) and reset idle mixture screw to 2 1/2 turns from full in or for best idle speed. If best idle is more than 3 turns out, switch to a 48 pilot jet and re-adjust idle screw for optimum idle. 5)Shim the needle a little higher (~0.01". | ||
| Blasterd |
Does anyone know what jets should be in my Cyclone? (2000) The bike was jetted in Virginia by a dealer in Maryland when the Vance and Hines was installed. I live in Florida, and now it is not running smooth. (black plugs). Thanks | ||
| Tim |
Blasterd, Info is at top of page. Stock jets plus recommended changes. Tim | ||
| Tim |
Suzypoozie, Do a search on the "force" air cleaner. You will find some versions came with a potential problem with the float bowl vent opening, which is easily modified. How do you define backfiring? Loud popping out the exhaust when closing the throttle could be a sign of loose header bolts or a bad exhaust gasket. Tim | ||
| Blasterd |
What jets do dealers normally put in for this type of exhaust? | ||
| Bud |
kaudette, you don't need to cut the white wire, ( sound's like yours is still in place ) if your placing the race-ecm, on the race-ecm there's no connection on the 8e pin. gr,m | ||
| Kaudette |
Bud, Thanks for the info - I still find it hard to believe Buell would ship bikes with such a flat spot (more like mile wide canyon!) in the powerband... Race EMC here we go... | ||
| Chief |
I need some help, I've got a 2000 x-1 with a wileyco exhaust, race comp, and k&n filter on. The bike has a little less than 10,000 miles on it. The problem is when it gets good and warmed up at full throttle above 5000rpm it starts to stutter sometimes. Not really a consistant miss just a random stutter and occasional backfire. Just started doing it recently and the engine light shows no codes. | ||
| Chief |
I need some help, I've got a 2000 x-1 with a wileyco exhaust, race comp, and k&n filter on. The bike has a little less than 10,000 miles on it. The problem is when it gets good and warmed up at full throttle above 5000rpm it starts to stutter sometimes. Not really a consistant miss just a random stutter and occasional backfire. Just started doing it recently and the engine light shows no codes. | ||
| Chief |
Sorry about the double post the computer at work timed out on the first one and was taking forever on the second so I stopped it or so I thought. | ||
| Awprior |
I installed a Mikuni 42mm flatside last week, finally got the rest of the bike wrapped up so I could ride it (detent plate problems). Overall, it was an easy install. Took 20 minutes tops. The most difficult part was getting the stock mounting bracket to line up with the new carb. A bit of wiggling and everything lines up. It has a much better throttle response and I think changed the power band quite a bit. With my setup (D&D full system, open K&N filter), it seemed to run very lean with the 160 jet. I put in the 165, will take that to work tomorrow to see how that works. The only problem I've encountered so far is a problem with the choke, it like to stick a little. Overall, not a cheap mod, but worth the money once I start doing more engine work. | ||
| Werewulf |
i have a 2k, m-2. why does the stock cv have a drain tube? did all years have them? i was thinking about replacing the carb with one off my harley. i assume that everything else is the same. | ||
| Kevyn |
Finished installing a Mikuni 42 on the S2 this afternoon and went for a nice ride. Way better throttle response, engine runs much healthier and stronger now. Starts immediately, minimum choke. Fairly easy installation. Replaced leaking intake seals, removed casting seams from inside manifold and polished smooth. Stock throttle cables worked just fine. Had to use some spacers between the mounting bracket and the heads because the Mikuni was just a bit longer than the CV. Shorter bolts for the air cleaner backing plate. Oh yeah, replaced the allen head bolts on the ignition switch side with hex heads---much better! Had to shorten an allen wrench to get the intake manifold bolts loose. If anyone is thinking about replacing the CV with a Mikuni...do it. | ||
| Aesquire |
Werwulf, yeah, I think they all have them. (what for I don't know lol) Make sure the jetting is right & check the needle. see Dyno test results CV Needles | ||
| Werewulf |
i have a mikuni 42 that im going to throw on for grins. it came off a harley of mine. everything looks straight foward except the throttle cables. they are totally different than harley cables, not to mention the buell clamp on the throttle cable where the cable meets the carb. i assume you throw it away! how do you keep the cables in the carb bracket, is this an issue? any other tips on installing the throttle cables?? | ||
| Kevyn |
Hmmm? I was curious about the cables when I started. My biggest concern was length, I knew the carb had come off a Buell so the cable mount/attachments would be correct. The Mikuni installation book stated that the carb would be compatible with HD Sportster cables...but I just don't know about the other twins. If you have the time, get the carb on the bike and see what you need. Mikuni should be able to get you a different cable attachment. The one thing I would caution you about is the choke fittings. There is a different internal plunger and spring for the HD model that should come from the stock CV. The installation instructions tell you to adjust the cables all the way out and then adjust them to open and close the carb. The S2 cables were more than long enough. The cables were secure in the bracket without additional clamps...I'm going to check that again... | ||
| Aaron |
Werewulf, look at the carb from the right side of the bike. Is the cable hook-up linkage on the left or right side of the carb? Left side (toward rear of bike) = older Mikuni that requires special cables. Right side (front of bike) = newer Mikuni that uses stock cables (although sometimes you have to bend the cable holder a tad). | ||
| Werewulf |
thanks for the responses. i had the carb on a deuce and later on a 2000 sportster and the cables were the same. the cables on the 2000 m-2 are different. for one thing, the return cable doesnt have a small spring on it like the harleys. the cables go in the carb fine, but i wasnt sure if they would stay in the carb bracket. should i keep the stock buell clamp that holds the two cables together where they meet the carb? if so, i would have to put them further away from the carb, as the mikuni bracket puts the cables further apart. | ||
| Bomber |
All in a flurry of enthusiasm at a track day, I lost both the idle mixture screw and the little spring that lives above it in the carb body from my Y2K M2 . . . I have an extra screw, but was at a loss as to a replacement for the spring . . . H-D does not list it as a replaceable part (due to EPA and CARB rulings, no doubt, and the fact that the screw and srping live under that plug, so why would you ever mess with these things, anyway?) the spring, it turns out, from a cheap ball-point pen is exactly the right diameter, although it appears a mite long (hard to tell without the carb in front of me) . .. . just a tip, as I'm sure I'm not the last person who will oose this part | ||
| Werewulf |
if you lose the idle adjuster spring, you will probably need the micro O ring and washer that goes with it. just so happens the drag specialties sells the kit. cp016 is the part number. | ||
| Bomber |
thank you sir . . . . . I appreacite the backup! Does the o-ring and washer fit on top of the spring( between the spring and carb body) or below the spring (between the spring and the screw)? | ||
| Werewulf |
i lost mine too and was told i was out of luck, thank goodness for that part number. the spring goes on the needle first, then the washer and O ring on top. | ||
| Bomber |
Wulf . . .. you gots mail, sir . . .. cp016 is a do rag with live free or don't on it, or sumpin . . . . . could it be int he rebuild kit for the carb (p/nDS-289109)? edited by bomber on September 11, 2003 | ||
| Bluzm2 |
Jetting a Mikuni HSR42 What is a good starting point for jets on a Mikuni HSR42 for a stock motor 2000 M2. Intake and exhaust mods only (Daytona Boss pipe, CF race intake), no motor work. I was able to pick one up for a real decent price but I'm not sure if the jetting is "stock". I want to be sure I'm starting in the right ball park. Brad | ||
| Werewulf |
ive got an 00 m-2. i assume it holds 5 gal of fuel. as soon as it gets down to 1 and a half gallons of fuel left, it cuts off until i put it in reserve mode. shouldnt i be able to use more than 3 and a half gallons of fuel before going to reserve?? | ||
| Hans |
Werewulf, shorten the inlet tube of the petcock with about an inch and you have half a gallon in reserve. The manual may give the false impression that the petcock is fixed with self cutting screws: It are in fact normal screws, firmly fixed in metal screw holes. Hans | ||
| Lee |
Dynojet PCIII question?: I have an X1 with race kit pipe and ignition. Has anyone run a PCIII with this configuration? If so did you see any gains? (hp, delivery, etc.) Thanks in advance. Lee | ||
| V2win |
Hey guys, Has anyone here tried to make the throttle return spring on a Mikuni, a little less strong? After a few hundred miles my right wrist hurts like hell. Several years ago, I did a get off and broke it in several places. That damn mikuni works great except for the return spring being so strong. Any ideas? | ||
| Bmg |
try out on a bull worker? | ||
| Lugginjugs |
I thought that the site could use at least one more idiosyncratic experience on modifying the CV carb. A month ago I gutted my stock exhaust, put it back together and replaced the slow jet with a 45. I left the main 195 in place. I lost some midrange performance. So I drilled the slide to .110 and shimmed the needle in a different way....I did not shim under the needle like I was suppose to. I noticed that the needle had an 1/8" vertical "freeplay" (with the needle slide spring relaxed and the needle seated) so I thought I'd shim the needle down (washer between head and spring seat) to take the play out. The bike runs significantly better. Because I have changed two variables I don't know which had the greatest impact. I assume it is the slide work. I can't undo the drilling to test. Does anyone know why the vertical play would exist? Should I use a single shim or multiple shims to put under the needle to put that final touch on the job? Finally - Lot of folks eventually graduate to the Mikuni. I've always fantasized about getting an S&S 'E'. Any reason I shouldn't? |
