| Author | Message | ||
     Jmc111jeff |
My 2007 Super TT rear brake is very stiff. To get it to bite hard i have to really step hard on the foot lever. How much pressure is normal if its adjusted and working properly? And What would it be if there is a problem ? Its under warranty...... probably going to dealer this week. | ||
| Gotj |
I have an 06 Uly and have the same "wooden feel" and weak brakes you describe. You'll probably get a lot of replies that the brakes are "perfect". I have gotten used to them but still don't like them. In one thread, a defender of the brakes said the rear brakes are good for about 10% of your total stopping power. I agree but believe it should be about 30%. No one has yet found a simple solution. A $600 solution is found in England with a new rear caliper and mount. The rear brakes are simply inadequate. | ||
| Eshardball |
I have an antique compare to you guys(98 S1) but I am told that the back brakes are intentionally weak to allow trail braking. I installed a braided stainless line in the back and it more than doubled my rear brake power. I used to have to stand on it and it was feeble until it locked. A little practice has taught me how much rear brake to use during corner entry. | ||
| Court |
It was not so much to allow trail braking as to keep the front and the rear of the bike in the right order. Under braking, and I know I am telling you nothing you don't know, the rear tire is barely (you can often see light under it) in contact with the ground. This is not the time you want a "powerful" rear brake. It's an art rather of "how much" not "the most". . . . engineering is a science of optimizing, not maximizing a system. The key is to know YOUR bike. Court | ||
| Eshardball |
Court, Mine was practicaly useless until it locked and then it was really useless. I use both brakes although I know the front is doing the lion's share of the work. Now my back brake produces predictable results where as before it was wooden and then it would lock with nothing in between. Since your statement about the weight transfer is correct, I don't see the need for any more back brake than the braided line gave me. | ||
| Gohot |
Esharball, having said that, I intend to replace the front and rear rotors with the wave rotors available from American Sport Bike, due to the cost of the wear prone front and oem replacement upwards of $300 plus, and all the hassel I get from the local HD dealer this is a no brainer most of us would jump on. However following your advise with the braided line for the rear, is there any more you would suggest, ie. different pads or...? I would like to find more grip and modulation in the rear, and really dont want to go to the "PM" rear calliper due to cost and the fact that while an exquisit looking piece it looks somewhat amiss with the stock front, if you know what I mean. The front are exceptional in stock form but at 30,00 miles are on it's final aproach as it were. However you can buy seperatly from Buell the center carrier alone for about $150.00 yet, that just extends a poor desigh even bringing more greif later, and we all know the hassel of removing the front wheel. So what are your thoughts on the best spend fix here? ............Rich....... | ||
| Eshardball |
I'm a relativly new Bueller(2years). The wave rotors do such a great job at dissapating heat that their purchase is a no brainer if they are not cost prohibitive. I have EBC pads and they are pretty good but not the top of the line. They were a great deal on E Bay. I still have the stock front rotor and doubled up on the wave washers so as not to listen to the rotor rattle. I will also go to a wave rotor at least in the front. My point in going to the stainless lines is that it makes the back brake predictable. I use it to scrub off speed going into a turn now that it is predictable. I did the front line as well but my stock front brake will launch me over the bars if not judiciously applied. I would imagine that it might not be the hottest set up for the track, but it seems to perform well on the street.I did a major stoppie once(damn Jack Russell Terrier). looks cool on the stunt videos. Scared the crap out of me though.I don't need more pins & screws in me no that I'm pushing 50. The wave rotors are cool if for nothing more than their asthetic value. Court being the guru that he is, was right on the money that more is not always better but I could drop all kinds of money into my Buell if I had it to spend. Unfortunately my wallet has to maintain a wife, kids and numerous other toys. Check the KV for brake postings from people with more Buell time than me. | ||
| Hulagun |
Time to renew this thread... my 03 XB9S has the wooden light switch rear brake. I'm thinking that the master cylinder size is simply wrong, likely too large. (Despite what people say, I like having a rear brake with good feel. Among other things, rear brakes are vital for slippery conditions where you can't trust the front. I'm gonna look into changing the lever, the master cylinder, or the caliper to get a better feeling rear brake. But if someone has done this already, please point me to that thread... |
