| Author | Message | ||
     Diamondaxe |
Hi, So two days ago my bike is running fine when all of the sudden my clutch cable breaks and I have no clutch.(is this common?) I bring the bike in and the guy calls me back saying there's no record of any service done on my bike and the fluids look milky white. So I tell him well.....four and a half months ago you guys did the 10,000 mile service. My bike had 9,300 miles then and has ~10,500 miles now. So my question is how soon do these fluids turn milky white? Does it really matter or is this guy trying to get some extra dough out of me? Is it possible they didn't do the service? If so is there a way I could find out? They want to charge me $200 to replace the fluids in the bike and change the gaskets ect. Any advice on how I should approach this would be appreciated. BTW....just checked my bank account to make sure I was charged for the service and I was. Thanks in advance Rod | ||
| Bombardier |
Have your oil sampled by Blackstone or a reputeable company straight away. This will give you info on the condition of the oil and what damage may have occurred to your bike by the metal found in the oil. I may also give you some indication as to whether the oil was changed or not depending on the how much breakdown has occured in the oil. May also be able to identify if the oils used where the correct type for your bike and not some cheap replacement if changed at all. Worst case for the milky appearance is water getting in through a breather hose from fanatical washing ( like mine ) or a seal/rubber gromet etc that is letting it in. By the sounds of it as your cable has broken the water is travelling down your clutch cable and getting into your primary. Most likely the o-ring wher the cable enters the primary case or where the cable adjuster cover has a tendency to deteriorate from the front header. The top wire retainer often breaks and I do believe that Buell have a redesigned item for that problem which may well be covered under a recall. (Message edited by Bombardier on July 12, 2008) | ||
| Odinbueller |
Definitely water contamination in the primary. Watch for clutch issues, too (i.e. slipping or not fully disengaging). | ||
| Diamondaxe |
Thanks for your quick replies, Well I decided to send my sample into Blackstone after I get my clutch fixed. I called to give these guys the go ahead to fix the clutch and was told that the problem was isolated to the fluids in the transmission. Should this change my decision at all? I was going to wait on having them do the fluid changes until I had sent the samples into blackstone and gotten a report. Thanks again, Rod By the by, how hard would it be to get the transmission fluid changed myself. Up until now I had all the services done with the dealership. | ||
| Buell_bert |
Hell, it takes longer to pour the new 20-50 oil into my 2000 M2 than it does to drain it. I'm a pro now because my bike and my brothers sporty (1200) were 2 of the bikes that got dumped over in the water during the S&S 50th. I have changed mine at least 11 times or more trying to clean up the milky look. It takes way less than a thimble full of water to turn it milky. Mine uses 1 quart and I had 1-2 quarts of water in the primary. It looks way better now but I'm still watching it. And it did shift like crap initially but I could tell the difference after the first change. | ||
| Diamondaxe |
hmmmm.... kinda thinking out loud here, but what if you drained the oil and blew hot air through your system. it might evaporate the water still caught in there. Rod | ||
| Buell_bert |
The amount I had it had to be changed but normal condensation (Hot to Cold) is turned into vapor just by running it and heating it up. This is released thru the vent tube. (Message edited by Buell_bert on July 18, 2008) | ||
| Diamondaxe |
Ok I just realized that I can't find the area where the transmission fluid is located. I want to remove a couple of ounces and send it to black stone.....could anyone give me some directions to find this fluid or even better post a pic with a nice big arrow pointing to it. I'll have to order a service manual when it comes time to change the oil it seems. thanks again all! Rod | ||
| Bombardier |
On the left side of the engine there are two cover plates. An oblong one with two screws and a round one with three screws. The oblong one is to check the primary chain tension and the round one is to fill the primary oil and adjust the clutch. Either will give you access to the primary oil. Use loctite when doing them back up and do not over-tighten them. Just nip them up to apply pressure to the gasket and let the loctite hold the screws in place. | ||
| Davidoforlando |
Diamond. Im trying to upload a picture of the cover you ned to remove.. hopes this works. This is the cover you can remove to add in new tranny fluid | ||
| Davidoforlando |
Sorry. File size is 250 kb, to big. sh*t | ||
| Davidoforlando |
the picture I was trying to up load was from the manual on the post above. I have an '08 Firebolt, but the manual is for an '03. But it's almost the same and well worth the money for the knowledge it provides. | ||
| Bigdaddy |
Davidoforlando, I removed your post. Badweatherbikers makes every attempt to respect all copyrights -- your post was a violation. Diamondaxe, Have you figured out how to crack the primary? The condition, as you've described it, is very common. Get the bike up to operating temperature and drain the primary fluid. Pour in a fresh quart of Formula+ and I'd bet you'll be golden. Are you close enough to another BWB'er to get some help? If not pick out someone and call them for a bit of help. This isn't a big deal. G2 | ||
| Davidoforlando |
Oops... sorry |
